Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Manual Climatic Control Upgrade To Climatronic - Single Zone Operation
Oct 9, 2009
The 2010 JSW si identical to VW Golf MkVI in respect of interior and controls. Unfortunately TDI trim is not available with dual zone climatronic - I ended up with manual Climatic control.
I compared the climatic and climatronic panels for MkVI and found out that the back side connectors looks compatible - the only difference is that Manual Climatic has dummy data communication port (I checked it physically myself after dismantling the panel) and has only one control output socket (The climatronic panel has two exactly the same identical sockets - dual zone control I suppose).
A simple swap of other control panels will work to provide single zone automatic operation of air condition system in my 2010 VW JSW TDI?
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I have noticed a humming noise above and beyond the normal fan noise when my t-reg is heating. I confirmed it is with the heating as when I turned the temp down, the noise quit at a lower temp and wasn't heating. The humming is distinct, almost like a small motor running or something and stems from driver's left.
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Both power windows on my 1997 Grand Am are broken and the last time I had one fixed it cost $500. I would like to convert the windows to manual from power. What parts do I need to buy to do so.
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So my strut mounts are shot and I wanted to add adjustable rear control arms to eliminate tire wear. So thinking of going with Bilstein HD's with the stock springs. Oh and BTW want to keep stock ride height since it is my daily. The only option I would consider for springs would be the euro version of the stock springs.
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I just installed an aftermarket blower motor in my 2000 Regal LS (175k miles) with the auto/digital dual zone HVAC. All works fine with the blower motor. But when I hit the air flow button on the main unit. The airflow only vents out of the floor and very faintly from the mid. Regardless of whether I switch from floor, mid or window, airflow still vents out of the floor mostly. I know I need to recharge my ac, but I wouldn't think that that would be the cause of the problem I am having with airflow location. Do I need a new control unit??? Everything else works fine with the ac unit. What gives???
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2000 Blazer LS 4X4. 186k miles. It would seem that my heater control will only work for defrost and face-vent operation. (Just happened yesterday) When I move the controller from the off position to defrost, I can hear the system moving the flaps into position. But it no longer moves for defrost/floor or just floor control. Would changing the heater control solve this problem, or could it be a bad vacuum line?
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Is it would be possible or easy to upgrade the wiper control in the S to the variable int. wipers in some other models? I tried doing a search but I didn't see this subject ever being brought up.
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Whenever I hit auto on the climatronic after the car has been off it always defaults to 72 degrees. I'm in South Florida, and I realize it's a little thing, but it'd be great if I could make it default to low right off the bat. Is this something Vag-com could be used to alter? Tried searching for this but couldn't find anything directly related.
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On start up, on the hot day, A/C takes 4-5 minutes of driving before starting to cool. Not much cold air coming out once it get's going to.... IF Climatronic is switched OFF, then as you drive you can feel hot air coming out from vents and actually fogging up windscreen on the rainy day.
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What all would be involved in swapping from regular ac controls to automatic climate control like the lariats have on a 2015 xlt superduty?
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I JUST got my brand new 2011 gti this wednesday, which I am obsessed with. When I was driving around earlier yesterday however, the temperature gauge started to go up and into the warning zone. a message on the dashboard then sed "check engine coolant see manual".
So i did, and according to the manual everything should be running perfectly fine. So i pulled over till the engine cooled down to normal, then after about a mile it happened again, and it kept overheating every mile. I got the car towed by vw to a dealership nearby, but they're closed on sundays so i have to wait till tomorrow.
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I've looked all over online about this and spent hours tinkering with it but I can't seem to figure it out. I have an '01 gti glx with the lcd climatronic. fully functional but none of the backlights work for the buttons or the screen and I'm wondering what at all it could be... Not a hugely pressing issue, just annoying trying to figure out which button is which at night..
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My display on the MFA and Climatronic panel is really wrong (-44C now). I was taking a look at the sensor in the front left grille but the only thing that's changing into the readings with my Vag-Com is the outside temperature sensor but not the displayed temperature.
I didn't find any other sensor on my car. Nothing into the rain tray...
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I recently bought this golf and well gotta say very happy with it, W reg so 2000 model and it the 1.9 TDI SE variant, 29,000 miles and only one owner from new. But like many before me I have a air con issue.
So here's what I have looked at. Done the climatronic test with two error codes
04B6 Standing Time Signal
0318 Air Conditioner Pressure Switch
The blower works inside etc, but only blows warm air. I can hear the engine rev's change when I push the Econ button. So car is pretty mint but 15 years old, where should I start looking.
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I'm a little bummed that the only thing that shows in the mfd in my 2011 Jetta SE is the time, outside temp, fuel, and total/trip miles.
Is it possible to upgrade to the one I'm guessing comes in the SEL?
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So i recently upgraded to a apr k04 from a apr stage2 tune and I'm getting a P0101 CEL. I've triple checked all my piping, and sensors, everything is nice and tight. I did however install the turbo with a GFB DV+ using the spring. Do you guys think the fact that the spring in the DV+ holds an amount air in the intercooler that it's throwing off the readings with the MAP and causing that CEL? I was going to give it a week or so and maybe see if the ECU can adjust itself enough to the DV+ and hopefully solve the problem. If not then i guess ill check for more leaks, but i doubt there is any. Boost holds real good throughout the whole rpm range...
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However, my fuel pump seems to be having a small issue intermittently. So I was wondering if you can upgrade the fuel pump without upgrading anything else? Is that acceptable or would it mess things up? I plan on getting the DTM kit in the future.
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just got a clutch job done. old clutchmasters was slipping so i went with a used southbend stage 2. the clutch was used for 3,000 miles or so and it belonged to the owner of the shop where i got it done. he guaranteed me that the noise was fine, but my father thinks differently. only makes noise when clutch is disengaged. if i press the clutch pedal. the noise goes away.
he shop resused my old stock flywheel but swapped out the clutchdisk and pressure plate. not sure if he switched out the throw out bearing.
is this normal in a higher stage clutch? its worth noting that all weird noises aside, the clutch shifts very smooth compared to my beat up CM kit (never buying anything from CM again) i cant test to see if it holds since ive only driven 50 miles on it
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I recently flashed my car and not to happy about it. For me the car feels a little different than stock. My exhaust is louder and when I start the car now is doesn't start from high revs down to low anymore. I think I'm going to take it back and remove the software from the car. I personally don't like the feel as to stock.
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Where I can find a good description of the 2.0 (engine code AVH) PCV system?
This may not be a source of many problems since I find so little on it. My son has a 2003 Golf 2.0. From the little, pretty non-definitive, info that I find it appears that there may not be a problem with its crankcase vent system but it would be nice to be able to find something to understand it better. It's leaking from the rear main seal. We're gonna fix that but don't want to have it reoccur because we didn't fix a potential cause of it.
I've found a couple of references that are observation based:
(1) Loosen the oil filler cap. If it bounces/pulses up and down then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(2) Remove the oil filler cap. If the engine starts idling like it has a vacuum leak the the PCV system is probably working correctly.
(3) Remove/loosen the oil dupstick. If the engine starts to idle rough then the PCV system is probably working correctly.
There seems to be nothing but a couple of hoses involved in the particular engine's PCV system. Not much to trace and nowhere is there any kind of valve, diaphram, etc. that I would expect to find. Can someone either explain this particular version of VW's PCV systems or point me toward a good source?
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I have a standard 2012 MK VI Golf (US), with the standard plastic steering wheel (no buttons)
I recently bought a leather steering wheel (with airbag and MFSW harness) which came off from a 2010 MK VI Golf TDI
My goal is to have a leather steering wheel (having the Steering wheel buttons function correctly can come later) so i am not upgrading the control module at this time....so......
I did the swap... (so i pulled the stock SW and airbag out....installed the TDI SW and airbag with the MFSW harness that came with it) all lights are off (after driving it and turning the steering wheel all the way left/right) but the horn is not working....
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