Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Heavy And Sluggish In D Mode When Going From Full Stop To Acceleration
Jul 4, 2010
Just this past weekend my wife got her 2010 Golf Highline with the 6-speed tiptronic transmission. Just a quick question about the gas pedal. when it is on "D" it really feels heavy and sluggish when going from full stop to acceleration. the pedal feels so hard and when you step on it feels like its not going at all. but as soon as it goes on 3rd everything seems ok. and then we tried putting it into "S" (sports) mode and everything was really good and quick. but when on this mode you need to be really hard on the gas pedal for it to run smooth. so i guess my question is...is it really like that when driving in the "D" mode??
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i want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
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I just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
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Recently had superpro Lca, koni yellows, Pilot super sports and a solid alignment done.
Over the last 2 days it seems that my steering that felt very light after the superpros were installed, has become very sluggish and heavy. There is a bit of "heavy" play in the wheel as well which under the same effort after putting on the PSS, would have tossed me around playfully.
One piece of info I should include is that I took her on a windy road pretty hard on Saturday. Tight hairpin turns that last a couple miles but I ran it 3 times.
Would running her hard though turns make the steering become dead? Is my power steering fluid in need of a change?
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I am having some trouble with my 02 Buick recently. The acceleration from a stop is very sluggish and gear changes come slowly, although they still seem to shift smoothly. The first thing I did was check the fluid levels and I can find nothing wrong there. The trans fluid was last changed 3 years ago, but the level, color, and smell are all normal so surely that couldn't be the culprit ?Unfortunately, that about exhausts my diagnostic skill.
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I recently replaced the 181K mile valve-burned engine in my 2001 Honda CR-V with a 40K mile engine from Japan. Since the swap idle is slightly erratic, acceleration from a stop is sluggish and check engine light indicates "P1508 error code" which is "Idle Air Control valve circuit failure." Also have an issue with the A/C cycling on and off rapidly when idling that goes away as soon as the engine rpm is slightly increased. New OEM IAC valve is costly so I hesitate to replace it. All parts other than the engine itself are from my original engine in my CR-V.
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So this vibration/ cluncking seems to be from between the front seats and mostly during off the line acceration, and from all I can find it's the flex disc, but my flex disc shows no signs of damage. Can these discs go bad without looking bad or is this possibly the hanger bearing on the driveshaft?
I am also looking for any other possibilities for the cause of this vibation/ clunking as there sounds like something is hitting the bottom of the car but there are no impact marks to show me where the issue is
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One of my pet peeves about the Prius Plug-in is that the car won't stay in full electric mode under hard acceleration. Any mods to keep the car in pure electric propulsion?
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When its heavy snow; which mode I should drive; I have 2012-Prius 3rd Gen - 26K Miles; I am driving in Mountain area every day ? The tires are still in good condition.
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Lately I have found that when I am trying to go up an incline on my road, that my car has trouble accelerating. Almost as if the engine is being choked off like it is about to stall or is out of gas. I have to press the accelerator almost to the floor to get up the incline. The suddenly it will lurch and accelerate rapidly as if I have put the car in Power Mode.
I should also add that this only happens when the engine is cold. I didn't have this problem last year at all. I usually wait a couple of minutes after the engine starts before I try to drive, but that doesn't seem to work.
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I picked up my first GTI about 3 months ago, a 2011 Autobahn with about 35,000 miles. I love the way it drives. I had been admiring them from a distance, and was finally able to pick one up. Unfortunately, I've run into a few issues. I'm pretty much a rookie when it comes to the inner workings of cars, but I'm eager to get into it more. My issue is below:
Over the last few weeks, the car has been consistently a little sluggish, and the acceleration has seemed a bit jumpy. I've only used premium gas, and I've been looking for simple things that might be the issue. I live in Houston, and I was wondering if maybe the extreme heat and humidity might be the reason behind the sluggish performance.
Yesterday, I decided I would clean the air intake filter. It has a K&N intake from the previous owner. After cleaning the filter and replacing it, the car wouldn't start. I may have put too much oil on the filter or the humidity may have just caused it to take longer to dry than the instructions on the cleaning kit recommend.
I called my bro-in-law who is the go-to car guy in our family. He recommended that I try starting the engine without the air filter and pull out the MAF sensor and check it out. When I took off the filter, the car started fine. I replaced the filter, then also pulled the MAF sensor to see if it needed to be cleaned. I found that the bottom of the MAF sensor was bent and slightly dented. I could also see a place where the sensor had scratched the bottom of the pipe.
This morning, the car is running a little smoother (better than before, but not as quick as I remember), but the check engine light has come one. Could the performance issues be due to the damage to the MAF sensor? With the check engine light, is that something that is automatically triggered by removing the MAF sensor? Or is there some other issue.
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I’m concerned about stop and go traffic here in Phoenix, where the highway traffic literally stops for minutes at a time. Then we get to move for 50-100 feet and then completely stop again. This process may continue for 30-45 minutes. How is this affecting my Prius, am I slowly killing my new car?
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So for reason irrelevant, at about 500 miles on the odometer, I drove the Prius quite hard the past couple of days. In retrospect, a poor decision as I am now all kinds of concerned as to what kind of damage I may have done. I know break-in is said to be 600 miles so I was below that. I'll describe my 'hard' driving as heavy acceleration, often pedal to the floor, a few hard stops and umm excessive speed (we'll leave that up to interpretation). So I'm just stressing about it now.
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Just bought my R a few months ago and love it so far. I've recently encountered a slight buzz or vibration. I'll get down to the nitty gritty and not bore you with long drawn out information. Basically under heavy acceleration the driver side vibrates/ buzzes down by the floorboard. Now this only happen under heavy acceleration. I even did a test in 1st gear. Heavy accellerate under 2k RPM's, 3k RPM's, 4k RPM's and the vibration happened under these heavy acceleration periods. It's almost like there was also a loss of power during this vibration/ buzz, which leads me to believe it might be the clutch.
I took off the prop shaft and drove in FWD for a few weeks. The vibration was still prominent. Took of both front driveshafts and inspected those and they seem perfect but THE VIBRATION IS STILL HERE. Could this be the clutch?
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I just went APR Stage 1+ (APR hpfp plus VWR intake) and am loving the noticeable power gain from Stage 1. But under hard acceleration I'm getting a strange noise (sounds like wheelspin or tire screech and sounds like it's coming from the front tires) when I disengage the clutch to shift at higher (5K+) rpms. It is not metallic sounding (it sounds like burning rubber) and lasts for a split second then goes away.
For those of you who've had tuned GTIs, it essentially sounds like what my Stage 1 GTI sounded like when too much torque was going to the front wheels and I spun my wheels before I got traction.
It doesn't happen as I re-engage the clutch and it doesn't happen any other time (quick but not WOT acceleration or normal driving). It also didn't happen under hard acceleration before I went from Stage 1 to Stage 1+. Furthermore, I'm not having any issues with difficulty shifting or engaging gears at any time. My R is 1 month old and has ~1K miles.
I've searched the clutch/transmission troubles thread, and other threads, but haven't come across other sounds/symptoms that seem similar.
At first I was thinking it was just a split second of wheelspin from too much torque as the AWD kicked in, but that doesn't seem to make sense (or does it?) since it only happens when I'm disengaging the clutch. Any thoughts before I start thinking the worst?
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Just purchased a 2010 prius III and had a question about the HSI bar. I didn't notice this at first, but when pressing the gas (from a complete stop) the HSI bar lags a second then turns on without a gradual increase. Is this normal? While the car is in motion the HSI bar is smooth and gradual, but starting from a stop it seems there is a lag before the bar "lights up" sometimes past the middle line. I press the gas gently but it doesn't ramp up gradually. Probably just my OCD kicking in.
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Was on my way to work when my coil plug light started to blink - acceleration was sluggish as hell so I tried restarting the car to see what would happen. After restart the coil plug still lit up followed by the check engine light. Was gonnna be late for work so I used my other car to get to work and got the car towed to the dealer to check it out. This is what they found...
Birds decided to make a nest in my nice and cozy warm engine compartment ...
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02J-EGT 5spd. OEM axles.
Sounds like it's coming from the front. I noticed a few months ago my inner passenger CV boot was cracked, put motor mount spacers in which should have hopefully brought that axle up to okay standards. My initial reaction is to say the howling is from that CV joint however it's very odd it only happens after 35 and when I'm not heavy accelerating or deaccelerating- only when holding the car at a constant speed.
This also came after doing the TDI 5th. I notice it a little bit after passing 35mph in 3rd but really can hear it in 4th/5th when the engine revs drop. Am I right in thinking CV boot? Or transmission internal?
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I had been driving around for a few days and the car had been feeling a bit sluggish on initial acceleration and there was also a very slight backfire.
Just seemed to have lost some crispness. No fault codes thrown with VAGCOM.
Found one of the Camshaft Hall Sensors loose. I have had this before with the exhaust cam sensor but this time it was the inlet one. The bolt just comes a bit loose and the sensor can swivel around very slightly if you move it with your hand.
It seems to be enough to upset the the performance but not enough to throw any codes - after all it is still working perfectly sending a signal as far as VAGCOM is concerned.
Just need to nip it up again with an M5 Allen key and you are golden. One with a ball end makes it easier to get to. Just regained about 20 HP
Pic for information ....
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I just recently purchase my first 2012 Prius Three and so far it's been great on gas. However, today I had my wipers on full speed because of the rain here in Northern Cali and noticed that my car was swaying at the stop light. At first I thought it might be the wind but when I turn off the wipers the swaying went away. Turned them on full blast and the swaying came back. Is this normal?
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I am hearing a clicking sound when shifting and perhaps an unrelated but similar click when I am pressing the gas peddle from a stop. Perhaps a CV joint? I'm taking the car in to the dealer (approximately 79,000 km or 48,000 miles) on the 20th to give the car a once over.
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