Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Fuel Pump Won't Work / Car Stalls Completely
Oct 29, 2010
This car now has 6k miles .
A lot of people including me, has fuel pump failure. That's not bad you say..and no it's not if that was the only problem. When it fails, all metal particles that are shredded inside travel through your whole fuel system. Your fuel tank, your fuel lines, etc. Basically everything from your fuel tank to your fuel injectors. They replaced close to 50 parts on a brand new car!!!
When this happens, the car stalls completely which is now a safety issue! Imagine driving 2 kids on a highway and your car shuts off, giving you very limited braking (IF ANY) and steering!
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I have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
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Every so often when I leave the car sit for 30 minutes after being driven, I start it up, put it in reverse and back up, then when I put the car into drive the RPMs drop for two seconds or so and it seems like it wants to stall. After that happens, all is well and the Tig drives normal.
I scanned the Tig and it came up with a "low fuel rail/ fuel pressure" code. It happened 5 times.
Is my fuel pump going? Maybe a dirty fuel filter? Or maybe a computer problem?
Info: Tig has 26k miles on it, stock computer (not chipped), it is out of warranty. I only run 93 octane in it too.
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I have an issue of fuel pressure I believe on my 2003 3.5 Santa fe...It would start then stall...I'm at my wits end with this thing...I checked the relay and its good...checked all fuses and they are good...I don't hear the 2-3 second whine of the pump when I turn the ignition to the on position, so I suspected a bad pump...but before I bought a new pump I took out the back seat, removed the access cover and checked the connector to see if the pump is getting power...its not...I'm at a loss as to where to look next...
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Motor has been stalling intermittently since May. Finally had the fuel pump replaced last Friday (8/17/12). have been driving the car back and forth to work since then with no problems until yesterday. Made a run to the local convenience store and the car was shut down for about ten minutes. Came back out and car would not start! Gave it about 10 minutes and then it started again. Got it into the garage and let it run for awhile and it stalled out. Got the check engine light (a first for that) so swapped the fuel pump relay with one of the same part number. Fired right up and did not stall out.
Also, check engine light went out on its own. Swapped relays back to original positions, motor started right up, stayed running and check engine light went out on its own. What could be causing my problem? Since check engine light came on then went out on its own, would there be any trouble codes to read? One other thing, original relay has pinkish residue on the pins. What could that be about? First time poster so I hope what I have typed out makes sense. 2003 Accent 4 door with 1.6L DOHC motor. Approx 79000 miles.
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Radio is fine, all gauges and such seem to be normal. The climate control unit displays 75 degrees, the fan is blowing, but none of the controls do a darn thing. I can't turn it off, up, down, or anything. Where to start looking?
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
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Fuel pump does not work in Cold Weather, but works fine in warm weather? Will replacing the pump solve this or is there a bad sensor somewhere else causing the problem?
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I have inherited a 1992 Ford Ranger 4.0 with an unusual problem. When the temp drops outside the truck will not crank. The relay is coming on for a sec or 2 to bring the system up to pressure but the pump never turns on. This happens every time the outside temp drops below 60. I can wait until later in the day or until a warm day, hit the key and drive it till it runs out of gas. A week later (and another cold front) and it is sitting dead in the front yard. I have traced the grounds, checked the power thru the relay (and replaced the relay too), but it still does this. What I want to know is am I the only one to ever run into this and if not then what is causing it. Pump shows no sings of trouble on a 70 degree day, even runs the proper pressure and volumes. I am stumped at this point and I am ready to try replacing the pump (though the one in it looks brand new). comments?
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I have an 02' Blazer 2Door 2WD 4.3L vortec. Great truck - very low miles. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. She was showing signs / not starting on the 1st/2nd try and finally wouldn't start. It's a 12 year old pump and I was also that guy trying to make til Friday on a quarter tank - so no complaints so far. I checked the relay and fuse, all good there - so I bought a new AC Delco and fuel filter. Drained and dropped the tank, cleaned and dried the tank and installed the new fuel filter. The pump came with a new pigtail - so I wired in the new pigtail, attached the hoses and re-attached the tank. Not bad for 6 hours of work ( first time - don't judge ). She fired right up and ran like a champ / about a week later I stopped and filled up the gas tank. Next day - no start / no whine from pump / 0 psi at the schrader valve.
Assuming it must be an electrical issue - I dropped the tank and tested the gray power wire / 12 volts. But to be thorough / in case I made a mistake / I stripped and re crimped all the connections, heat-sealed the sleeves and wrapped in all in electric tape. Tested the pump - she hummed like a kitty. Re-installed the tank and she fired up like a champ. Drove around a couple of days - stopped and filled the tank with gas. Same thing - wouldn't start right there at the pump. i poured fuel in the intake - she would start and run until the fuel burned up.
No hum from the pump. had it towed home ... again ... began to siphon my now full tank of fuel to drop it yet again. At about 1/2 way , I tried her and the pump primed and she started right away. For the past two weeks I have been unable to make it NOT WORK - but i am worried to go very far , less i be stranded again. on the gauge I get 60 with the key on and 56 running. With the engine off the pressure holds for quite a long time - well over an hour+. So what would cause a brand new AC Delco pump to not work only when the tank is full - then start working when some of the fuel is removed?
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R's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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The scenario: I recently filled up at a station that, according to the attendant, had just lost electrical power but power had been restored. The pump was flowing agonizingly slowly, so I asked the attendant what was up, and he said the system needed 20 minutes or so to reboot before the pumps would flow at the normal rate--sounds kind of specious to me, but I was in no hurry, so I figured so what, I'd wait it out.
Well, eventually the tank filled up, and then some. The pump's auto-shutoff failed to work (my guess is that the flow rate was so slow that the back pressure failed to build up to the point to trigger it, but, whatever...). Gas was dripping everywhere by the time I noticed it (since it was taking so long, I wasn't paying close attention).
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2010 MKVI GTI ... Woke up this morning and there was a puddle under my car. Reservoir was completely empty. I jacked it up and got a look under while running some coolant through and think I found the leak.
What this is, and if it's leaking as it appears to be and if a choad can fix it, or if a certified mechanic must be engaged.
It seems to be dripping all along this clam shell along these star nuts.
[URL] ....
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I have a 2010 V-6 Camry that has been sitting for a couple years, changed the oil (what a system that is !) and was wondering the location of the fuse or the relay for the fuel pump is so I can crank the car over awhile to build up some oil pressure before I start it .
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I crashed my f-150 2010 and its all fixed but now I have to find the fuel pump reset which I can not find!!!
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Where the fuel pump relay is in Corolla 2010 le?
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About 3 weeks ago I bought 2014 Prius Two. Was purchased as A Certified Pre Owned. At first I thought I just got a bad pump at the gas station. It's now been 5 fill ups at three different stations and same problem every time.
The fuel pump clicks almost instantly when trying to fill. I've tried different angles and manage to get a few gallons in before it prematurely clicks. I've resorted to holding the pump at the minimum flow to to get a consistent flow until fill up.
Car is under warranty so will probably just take it to the dealer. If it something quick and easy fix I'd rather just do it myself over the weekend.. I've ran the gas low most fill ups and topped off.
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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Recently I bought a aem fuel pump only to find out it was for a vr6... go figure. so i said no big deal took it off and put my old one back on. Everything worked fine before now but now that i have put the old fuel pump back in i am not getting any fuel at all.
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