Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Fan Malfunction - Stopped Working On 1-3 Setting
May 3, 2012
I've got a 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen and the blower fan stopped working (again).
About 3 months ago it stopped working on the 1-3 setting and 4 worked fine. So I searched these forums and found the resistor pack was blown. Replaced it with the ~$30 official VW part and it worked fine until last week.
Now all settings are not working. I ohm'd out the resistor pack and they appear to be fine. I put a current limited 12v supply on the fan and it spun up without a problem. I checked the voltage coming from the car to the fan connector and it was at 0v.
From reading the forums this tends to point to a faulty switch. If it is a fault switch then why does the AC light turn on when I switch from 0 to 1?
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
Ok...this is weird. It works for the back but not for the front. How to get it to work again?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 Buick Century which is more or less reliable. Last year the fan stopped working on the first (low) setting, but continued to work on levels 2-5. Air came out of all of the vents, using the fan, A/C, or heat with no problems. A few days ago, level 2 stopped. The next day levels 3 and 4 stopped. The fan still works on the highest setting, but it's just starting to be summer in Minnesota and I'm worried that level 5 will stop on the hottest day of the year. Is this a simple fuse problem I can fix myself? Complicated repairs are probably beyond me, but I can do basic repairs.
View 6 Replies
My wife's 08 mountaineers heater has stopped working on every setting but high it has the dual climate control with rear heat and ac I've heard there's a control module behind the glove box. Is this true and how hard is it to replace?
View 2 Replies
The indicator lights stopped working on the switches and the dealer replaced a fuse and they worked again. Now they are out again and it seems like the heater on the drivers side is on the low setting for random intervals.
View 3 Replies
11 months and 3 weeks ago a mechanic I trust replaced my a/c. Two weeks later I rear-ended another car.
There was minor cosmetic damage but it ran as before. A week after that began the record setting Texas summer heat wave and my car got so hot the mirror gauge registered 125 in a fast food line. This is the only time it got that hot. Once we got moving everything seemed fine.
A couple of days later the a/c ran for about 10 minutes then stopped. Slowly the time the unit cooled decreased until it stopped working. I took the car back to the mechanic. He stated the pressure measured up to 100 psi and the temperature was above the rating for the a/c system.
He fixed a short in the radiator/engine fan, the temperature problem never returned and the pressures were high but my a/c worked.
At first the a/c seemed to work fine but then it began to work only sometimes. When it did work it would sometimes work in "hybrid" mode which you Saturn owners recognize as cooling at the reduced level that saves gas in stop and go traffic -- or not at all as we say in TX.
I took it back. The mechanic now explained the I'd voided the warranty because the short in the radiator fan allowed the car and a/c system to get too hot. The high heat had burned some sort of internal valve in the compressor.
The valve is unreliable. The performance of the a/c is mainly temperature dependent. The hotter the day the less likely the a/c will produce enough of a pressure difference to open this valve. Warm days the system will probably cool. Hot days it will probably not.
Being a CarTalk listener and an former nerd I thought of and tried a way to magnify the pressure difference using rpm. It works but the hotter the day the higher and longer I have to rev the engine. Now I'm burning oil for the fist time ever. Did I cripple my air conditioner or does my trusted mechanic learn a little to little when he learned to repair my hybrid a/c system?
View 3 Replies
Our 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
View 13 Replies
The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
View 5 Replies
This morning my AC was working just fine, air blew cold and nothing seemed wrong. But then tonight when I went out it was cold outside so I decided to turn the heat on.. That's when a problem happened. Tried turning the AC on but no air came out the vents at all. Tried all the air settings, nothing at all, even when it's on "4". The only thing that seems to work is the re-cycilation button, it lights up and I can hear it working. So to sum it up, no air coming out the vents and the AC light won't turn on when I push it in.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2008 Honda Odyssey. I purchased the van used back in February with 34,000 miles on it. About a week after I bought it, the van started having odd electrical problems. My radio controls on the wheel would stop working, my rear wiper would start running even though it is in the off position. My power sliding doors would catch and close at the half way point on both sides at the same time. It is little odd ball stuff, but I am worried that the "brain" is not working properly. I have taken it to the dealer multiple times and of course they can't find the problem. They say to bring it back if it keeps happening, which I do, but every time they say it is fine and send me on my merry little way.
View 2 Replies
Couple days ago I drove to work, everything worked fine but fired up everything to drive home and fan wouldn't blow anything on any of the settings. Checked all the fuses and didn't find anything burnt out. Drove home last night and it kicked on as soon as I started the car. I've read up on the resistor that can go bad but it seems that would result in a blown fuse. Can't seem to find anything on the fan kicking on and off whenever it feels like it?
View 1 Replies
This morning when I started up my car the coolant light flashed red, an audible warning chime sounded and the MFI read that I need to check the manual. Because the light was flashing, the manual says there is an engine coolant system malfunction and I need to take it to the dealer. The car was completely cold at the start, so I turned it off, then back on and there was no warning. I drove to work and the temperature gauge read right where it should be the whole way. This afternoon, when I started it up to go home the same thing happened. By the way, the car has only 4800 miles on it.
View 23 Replies
So I bought an 01 GTI last week with a decent amount of things pre-modified including a Jetta front end swap? Anyway the guy I bought it from knew absolutely nothing about what had been done to the car other than the fact that there was an HID kit installed and it was set up to run high beams only.
I figured I'd remove the HID's until i drop some cash on a pair of nice projector housings. I removed them and plugged up some nice sylvania bulbs as per the OEM standard 9007, and figured I'd have no issues... They are still stuck on high beam only... What could be causing this?
View 1 Replies
I have 2010 Prius, package 2. My horn stopped working a few months ago. I never got around to seeing whats wrong with it. I am not sure if it is the fuse or what ever. Where the fuse box is? Or what it can be? I did have a back up camera installed shortly before it went out...
View 2 Replies
Started my car this morning (2010) and both low beams aren't working. When set to on, only the daytime running lights come on (and yes I made sure the light switch was turned all the way). High beams work fine. Turned car off/on but still no good.
View 10 Replies
I bought the 2012 Prius three in Apr, and the navigation was working fine, when i entered a destination. When I entered a destination, it would say, "Please drive to the highlighted route" and it would tell the turn by turn directions and in case you miss the turn, it will immediately say "Route Recalculation" and then guide you to the next turn.
Somehow this stopped working and there is no voice guidance!!! Now when I enter the a destination, it will not say anything. If you are driving in the right direction, no turn by turn voice guidance. If you miss the turn, then it will say "calculating the route". This is driving me nuts since 2-3 weeks. I must have pressed some button or deactivated it unknowingly.
I took it to the dealer and the service technician could not figure it out. They said that they have to call the Toyota Technical Service to find out ( looks like only they can call, not the owner).
They said they tried to reset it to the factory setting, but that didn't work. Not sure if they know what they are doing. I think these technicians are mechanics, but not familiar with the software and the electronic components and their operation.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2010 Gen III Prius with Nav (GPS).
View 3 Replies
2010 Prius owner here. Both low beams stopped working unexpectedly last night. High beams still work, but when I switch to low beams, I just get the park lights.
View 3 Replies
My cruise control all of a sudden stopped working today.
View 7 Replies
I installed my dome light, map light, and rear license plate LEDs with no problem a couple of months ago. When my LEDs for the vanity lights came in today, I immediately went to install them. The first one on the driver's side was installed without a hitch, but after I installed the second one on the passenger side, none of the interior lights worked. The only difference in installation I can think of is that I disconnected the light on the passenger side as opposed to keeping it plugged in on the driver's side.
View 6 Replies
I replaced all the interior halogen lights, parking lights and license plate lights with cool white LEDs. They look good and all was fine until the last step while installing the license plate lights. I plugged one side then turn the light switch on to verify the polarity to see if bulb would come on which it did. Same process for the second license plate light but this time around after turning on the light switch to see if it was plugged in right, I noticed the brake lights didn't come on. So I flipped the switch around a few times and nothing. Now the DRLs do not come on either as well as the parking lights. The only lights that work now are the head lights and interior lights. What happened how do I fix???
View 10 Replies
