Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Failing HID Ballast?
May 11, 2015
I've got a 2010 GTI with xenons, fogs are vag'd to turn on at low speed and when the turn signal comes on. Now there's a loud noise shortly after driving. Go to turn at low speed and noise can be heard and message comes on to check low beam light. Headlight, fog and turn signal are all affected at the same time especially if I'm stopped at a light with turn signal on. Talked to a friend that's a tech at VW and he said its most likely the ballast and when I talked to him and his parts guys they had never replaced one.
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We bought a new 13 level 3 with sunroof 9 weeks ago. It has been to the dealer 3 times because
1. the bluetooth kept failing and had to be repaired often. (it would lock any phone so we could not make or receive calls)
2. The radio started locking up and had to be powered down to work again.
The dealer replaced the radio and bluetooth by removing the parts from a new car after Panasonic & Corporate would not supply tracking # after claiming shipment of the replacement parts.
The new radio and bluetooth work nicely but the reception SUCKS. We live in a rural area and the radio station we normally listen to is too weak to tune to. Every other car we own (that's 6 cars folks) we can listen to this station.
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Took my car to a shop today after I'd been experiencing a "tinny clunking" sounding rattle. I was worried it might be my catalytic converter and after couple of bumps on the exhaust system while on the lift, the tech thought this was indeed the case. Replacing the catalytic converter could be a $1500+ job from what I hear if replaced by toyota.
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I have a stage 1+ tune, fuel pump, and intake. I ran into some clutch slippage and I decided to purchase an aftermarket clutch that was designed to mate with the OEM dual mass flywheel. I went this route because I had a single mass on my GTI and it was loud. I figured this would be a good solution to avoid the noise and be able to hold the added torque.
I broke it in as the instructions stated. After break in I gave it some throttle and I notice that there is severe slipping occurring. I have the clutch and flywheel pulled back out and sent back to the clutch manufacturer (they requested to see the flywheel despite it being the OEM one). The manufacturer states that the clutch is fine but the OEM flywheel is failing. They refurbish the clutch and ship it back to me with the flywheel. I take the flywheel to the dealer and explain that I suspect the flywheel is failing and divulge that I have some light modifications. The dealer shows me paperwork that they had behind the counter that says that any transmission issues on cars A, B, C, and D require an immediate contact to their VW rep and an opening of some type of file on the failure (forget what they called it). What's on the top of the list? The Golf R of course. They go on to tell me that they need the car to start this process and they will do nothing with the removed flywheel that I brought to them.
So at this point, my car is in pieces at the shop that I use and I've been without it for going on a month. I will also, obviously, end up having to pay double the labor for the install. I am also going to be out some more money to come up with a viable solution as I still don't have a functional flywheel. So what do I do?
I could purchase another OEM flywheel for about $800. My concern here is the OEM flywheel busting up again and being in exactly the same spot that I am in now. I could purchase a new aftermarket clutch and flywheel combo and scrap the hope of avoiding the noise and sell the refurbished clutch I have to try to recoup some of the losses. Not sure what other options I have, if any.
Needless to say, I am feeling pretty unhappy about this whole thing. I've landed in a place where I am going to end up shelling out twice as much cash as I should have to get a clutch in my car. Burning a couple of grand to get absolutely no benefit stings more than a little.
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yesterday my r began making a new buzzing sound when accelerating. ive researched and i guess it does somewhat sound like a quick blow into a harmonica. I am pretty aware of the sounds my car makes and am sure that this is completely new. the noise only occurs under load around 2800-3000 when boost comes on and then things go back to normal.
i have been tuned UM stage 1 since july and have never experienced this noise before yesterday.
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2001 1.8T Wolfsburg
Started it this evening and went to the store, on my way there the car was right messed up. No lights, wouldn't go over 500 rpm (no throttle response), eventually was stuck on the side of the road. Reset my throttle back to OEM and everything went back to normal, car hasn't shown any trouble since but it's only been a couple hours. I don't want to end up stranded somewhere so I'm wondering if my computer is possibly failing or should I try replacing the throttle body if it does it again?
Car is not chipped and was OEM throttle before (to my knowledge).
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Steps or pictures to show how to change the headlight ballast on 2007 Toyota Solara....
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So I recently got a 9006 8000k HID Kit off of E - bay and I'm planning on installing it in place of the stock HIDs. However , I just realized that the stock HIDs have a D4S ballast and connector which do not fit the 9006 HID kit that I just got.
So should I remove the old D4S ballast and put in the new kit, or buy D4S bulbs that fit the stock ballast ? Also, the driver side headlight is flickering and goes out at times so I don't know if the stock ballast is acting up.
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I have an 07 Prius and the headlights started going out so I bought new HID D4R bulbs and they do the same thing. I want to replace the ballasts. How to do this? Any thing special about it?
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I have installed an HID kit into my Passat, however once in a while, I get a problem where the left hid will not start, so I have to shut lights to off position, and then back to AUTO, and then both turn on. Sometimes both turn on, sometimes only right turns on start-up, however, if I manually turn them off and back on, they always turn on. It is strange, but I am not sure why it is doing this...possibly a bad ballast or bulb? I have relay harness, so I don't think it should be a wiring problem.
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So I started having the issue with my drivers side headlight going out and saw the many threads regarding issues with the bulbs and ballast.
I started out purchasing a new bulb, from ebay TOYOTA PRIUS GENIUNE PART PHILIPS D4R 42406 XENON HID HEADLIGHT LIGHT LAMP OEM
Came in "Toyota" box. Got the bulb in and still had issues with the light turning off... so then I bought the after market ballast and replaced it yesterday. Light still going off.... What to check? Just read the article regarding bulbs, going to pull out the one I just got and have a better look at it.... Not all HID Bulbs are created equal.
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We had what seemed like a normal situation with the driver's side burning pink for a minute then going out. I thought it was the bulb, purchased the bulb and the light burned bright, though more yellow than the typical light blue, and then went out.
I replaced the Ballast with a different one, and got the same effect. The HID lights, burns OK for about 20 seconds, starts to pulse a little then shuts off.
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'07 LS460 130K, started failed 8/15 replaced w/ o'Reilly rebuilt total cost $700, that one failed 12/14, this time went to Lexus Dealer new bill $1700. Both times Battery us up (new) start switched checked out.
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So I've installed two set of KYB rear shocks in my Elentra 2008 and the shocks failed after a few days and there is bad noise coming from failed shocks.
My questions: Is KYB the right brand for my car?
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I have a 2006 2.4l Santa Fe, has been diagnosed with failing ac compressor. Quoted exorbitant amount of money to replace. As far as I know, this vehicle was available without the ac option, and at this point I don't car if I have it or not, looking for the cheapest fix. Can I bypass with a shorter belt? Does it need to be removed completely, and if so, can it be done without affecting anything else?
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My wife drives a 2005 Solara 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE. Over the past few years, it has been going through batteries about every year and a half. The batteries have all failed on the load test.
So far, I've removed the alternator and taken it in to get it bench tested, tested fine. I had the full charging system check with the machine, starter tested fine, alternator volts were fine, only problem was the CCA load test (for which the battery was replaced under warranty). I tested for parasitic battery drain several times, got some drain for awhile after car is powered off, but it eventually falls to zero. I checked for voltage drop across the wiring, visually inspected the wiring to the starter, alternator, etc. and made sure the ground connections were tight from the battery to the frame and engine. Everything looked good.
The only thing I can come up with is that the most recent battery boiled over a bit at one point in time because there was evidence of acid spillage. Also, once (and only once), my wife noticed her lights flickering while her car was idling for awhile during a cold morning. These two things lead me to think it must be the alternator (voltage regulator), but neither the bench test nor anytime I test it at home reveals any issue.
Maybe it's an intermittent problem from vibration, etc. I just hate to plunk down the cash for a new alternator if that isn't the issue.
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The hydraulic lifts on the trunk of my wife's 2003 SC430 are failing.
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2004 Passat 1.8T ... The unlock part of the remote won't work ... It used to, but won't now ... The trunk release and lock buttons on the remote work just fine though ... I did replace a battery a ways back ... I can't remember if this started happening right after that or not ... I've lived with it for a while now and am annoyed enough at this point to fix it ... In case this comes up, this is the only remote I have for the car right now ... Bought it used and it only came with one ...
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I have a 2012 Prius Vv. I am having issues of failing door lock actuators and wanted to see if this was a common problem. I have replaced every door lock actuators once and the drivers door twice. Yes you read that right 5 actuators in one car. All have been covered by warranty, but come on. I can't be the only one.
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My 2003 Acrua RSX, Type S is having a problem that used to be sporadically mysterious, but is now bordering on dangerous. While driving, with the clutch depressed (when I'm about to shift gears or brake), the car will lose power. The first couple of times, this happened only while I was in 2nd gear and traveling < 20 mph, but recently, it happened when I was going 45 mph on the freeway access road, which was concerning because I lose power steering, and was luckily able to muster all of my strength and guide the car to the curb. God forbid it ever happen on the freeway -- I would surely get rear-ended and cause a terrible pile up.
I've taken it to two different mechanics, but neither were able to reproduce the problem, since it happens randomly. One thought it was loose battery terminals, but I checked the terminals immediately after the last stalling incident, and they were tightly secured. The car ALWAYS starts right back up after this happens.
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I took my 2000 Honda Accord to the mechanic and he told me my transmission is failing. He suggested that I put in a re-built transmission. I trust my mechanic, but considering the car has 207,000 miles on it I am not sure if it is a wise investment. Besides the jerking the car is in good condition and have taken it to the same mechanic for maintenance since I bought it 14 years ago, but I am not sure how long a re-built transmission will last. I only need to get 2-3 more years out of this car until I save up enough money to buy a new car.
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