Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Engine Shake / Vibration At Idle And Cold Start
Apr 28, 2011
I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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My wife's 2010 Golf TDI has started to vibrate at idle. I can't see anything obvious (sloppy belt, loose exhaust, etc). It does this only at idle, sounds like a nasty truck and goes away when you drive off. The engine shakes much more than normal. I have 2011 TDI Sportwagen and it does not do this. So, I won't entertain any comments about this being normal. Where should I start looking? I did an autoscan with VCDS, nothing came up (I'm still a rookie with this device, though).
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My 2011 Camry is giving very weird sound with vibration on every morning or whenever the engine is cold. I checked with 2 Toyota car dealers, they are saying, could not replicate this issue and car is normal. This is certified car bought 4 months before.
Camry vibrates only when it is Drive/Reverse gear. car is smooth when Neutral and parking.
When engine cold RPM stands in 1000+ (Vibrating)
When engine become normal RPM stays 600-700 (No vibration).
I just bought this car, selling this car now will be big loss.....
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So, I've had my car for about 4 years now. It's a 2008 basic PT Cruiser. About two years ago it started to make this weird noise whenever the AC was on. My car would shake and rumble if the AC was on during idle and the AC wouldn't be cool anymore. Whenever I was driving, it was fine. We charged it and then it quit doing that. A little after that, it started making this weird noise when I turned it on-kind of sounding like something was being banged around under the hood of my car. It also started to make this loud kind of screeching noise, and some gas or steam would sometimes (not often) come out from under the hood.
Then I got in a wreck and they said they fixed it when they repaired the car. Now, 2 years later, it's starting to make that same noise. The rumbling has continued, but when I charge it, it goes away. I just charged my AC about 5 weeks ago, but now it's starting again and the noise just started again this morning. I was told that there was a disc (something like that?) that may have cut my belt, but they said that they fixed that when they repaired my car from the wreck. If that was fixed, then shouldn't it not be doing this?
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We have gotten a record breaking amount of snow this winter and it has been tough on the smaller vehicles. The last couple days my car has developed an odd issue. When I start the car and it is not warmed up as in there is only one bar on the engine temp meter, I put the car into reverse but don't take my foot off the brakes and the car starts to vibrate strongly. Once it's warmed up to a few bars it operates normally. I know the brakes have some ice on them too but that is a different matter, also there is snow/ice packed into the underside due to the amount of snow on the roads here.
Car is currently parked in my garage with the heater heater on so hopefully it can melt some of the junk from the underside by tomorrow.
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Each time I reach 67mph, the empty passenger seat will shake profusely and I do feel a strong vibration under the car. Once I get above 72mph, the sensation goes away. Anything under 67mph is smooth as well.
It doesn't matter if I'm accelerating or coasting, It will occur between these speeds. I assume that I have one or more tires that may not be balanced correctly?
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Couple months ago I noticed that my car was experiencing rough idle, stuttering exhaust note during cold start. RPM is very stable!
Forward 4-5 months to last week, starting to notice vibration and it seems like the situation has gotten worse. The car returns to normal after 1 minute or so depending on how long it has been sitting there for. For example, If I park there for 30 minutes and try to start the car, I can feel a little vibration for up to 10 seconds. If it was parked for overnight, then the problem lasts up to one minute and then clears out. Now it's throwing a P0302 error which is cylinder 2 misfiring.
It's really like magic, the car would idle pretty rough and suddenly clears out.
I put in 4 brand new ignition coils and plugs, all OEM stuff and still hasn't worked.
This problems started during the winter time and I can clearly notice it's gotten worse and finally last week it threw the misfiring code.
I feel like something is failing or building up slowly. My car is a 2009 GTI TSI which has the same engine as the MK6 GTI.
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I have just over 11K miles on my 2011 and now notice steering wheel vibration & slight shake at 70 mph. The passenger can also feel it.
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On my 2010 Golf with 2.5, when I first start car above 40 degrees it goes into high idle for a few seconds which is normal. However, below 40 degrees it goes into low idle on cold motor. I brought this to 2 different dealers and they checked computer and fin no fault codes. How can I get this fixed?
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Just got my 2015 manual Golf GTI last Monday. The car has been great (except for the dealer leaving in the shipping pucks in the struts) and a lot of fun to drive. Over the past week I've noticed that when stopped and idling the engine vibrates every so often. Just like a light flutter. You can feel it in the pedal and kind of on the floor. This happens with the clutch engaged or not. Stopped at a light etc. Just wondering what would be the cause. I thought maybe bad gas that the dealer filled it up with. I just filled up with new gas a couple hrs ago. Maybe coil packs? When driving I have full power and it feels completely normal. Just that slight flutter every few seconds at idle.
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I recently got my Mk7 1.8T manual brand new and have been wondering about the long cold start idle. It usually takes around a minute or two before the revs drop below 1000. Coming from a '04 Mercedes and '11 TDI Jetta, I can say those cars the idles dropped much faster. Is this normal with the golf?
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just got my R32 a year and 3 months ago and love it. I came across my first issue though a couple months ago, when i start my car on cold starts before it would of course go to the cold start mode at over 1,000 rpm's before going back down after 30 seconds and depending on the weather i'd let it warm up anywhere from 5-15 minutes.
Well a couple months ago my car wouldn't do its normal cold start routine, i'd turn it and it made its loud pitch as if it was going to do the cold start and it just immediately went down to regular idle skipping the warm up, it did this for a week before i got it checked out. I went to a shop by me and he said that it might be a thermostat sensor so i replaced it and nothing. So he then pulled my throttle body off cleaned it did the whole calibration thing or whatever its called that you have to do when unplugging them and it went back to normal!!! Well after a month (two weeks ago) its doing it again. Then he told me it might be that the throttle body has some condensation frozen and isn't allowing the throttle to open like it needs too.
I live in a suburb 20 minutes north of chicago and i don't drive the car if it snows, i keep it in my garage. I have a CAI installed on the car that i put on back in March of 09 and a flapper that i just permanently opened with an IV clamp. So i don't have any big modification on the car...yet
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So I got a check engine light... did a scan and it said something about, "Cold Start Idle-Control System" and then it also has misfires on all of the cylinders and that it is running too lean.
I automatically went to check the intake, took it apart and the rubber coupler that connects the MAF sensor to the stage 2 pipe has a rip in it.
Now I'm freaking out thinking that maybe water... dust... dirt... has gotten into the engine.
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For the past few months when the vehicle is cold (by "cold" I dont mean physically cold, just mean it has been sitting all night in my driveway and it's still 90+ degrees outside) and I start driving, I seem to have this shimmy or shake in the tires/steering/steering wheel. Once my car seems to "warm up" (driving a mile or two) it goes away and my car is extremely smooth.
Could it be tires (I've tried rotating)? Suspension? Wheel bearings? I'm lost for even imagining what it could be. I don't believe it is engine/trans related, as it idles/revs just fine and shift perfectly...
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I picked up my latest R back in April - 3 owner, 33K mile car - as far as I know no tune. The previous owner owned the car for the previous 9 years and kept it stock.
The issue: If the car sits for more than one day (I work form home so this happens a lot) upon initial start up it will start and idle at 800 RPM and then drop a little from there once warmed up. Now if the car sits for less than a day, it will cold start as it should - high idle then a gradual drop.
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89 4Runner, V6 having trouble on the start up. Seems worse on the cold start after the engine has been left idle overnight or after my shift at work. I just re-cleaned my connection to my positive post and it's nice and tidy lots of spark on the meter guage but when I go to turn it over just a click. Both the box inside the cab by the front quarter and outside I can hear clicking but just a single click no solenoid for the starter tapping away. Every once in a while it will start to pick up but it seems it's got no power and then nothing back to the single click. It's even hard to jump start at this point.
Could this be the start of my starter going? The bushings going? After I get it going and drive around to where I have to and try a restart it seems to pick up just fine.
I am due to have my timing belt and cam seals done soon could this have any effect? I just had my distributer cap and rotor done and new plugs.
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I have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. When at idle, the car shakes a little. I notice it the most when at a red light. But if I put the car in N, the shaking goes away. It happens with the most severity when in D and with my foot on the brake. I'm assuming the shake is normal for a car of this age and mileage, but i'd like to eliminate it.
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4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
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Here's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
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I usually get this sound when the engine is completely cold. I get a weird pulsating sound that's very loud, after the engine warms up a bit. It goes away completely.
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It levels off and idles fine after about 10-15 seconds but sometimes it idles so rough I think it's going to stall.
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