Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - EPC Light And CEL Are On / Idles Roughly?
Oct 22, 2012
I own a 2010 Seat Leon 1.4 TSI 125hp 6 speed manual with 20000km (same engine, transmission, electronics as a Golf - 1.4TSI 123hp or Audi A3 - 1.4TSI 125hp, in North America you can consider it a poor mans VW or Audi, i prefer Audi LOL).
Ever so often maybe once a month when the engine is cold (usually during cold weather and in the morning) the following happens:
I crank the engine and get a really rough idle that's about 300-500rpm... the engine struggles and then shuts off after about 5-10 seconds and while this is happening the CEL an EPC light are on. after the engine turns off by its self, the next time I start the engine it works perfectly.
I have taken the car to a certified VW workshop since its under warranty (4 years) several times and they have found no fault codes. The second time I took the car they flashed the ECU to the newest software. The other day (Fourth time) after the above happened again.. they hooked up the car to the diagnostics tool in front of me to prove there are no fault codes stored. I left the car for testing and they came up with nothing.
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My '06 Pt Cruiser A/C works fine @ speed, but idling and @ stop lights it blows moist warmish air and idles roughly.
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The dealership did my oil change. Afterward, the engine idled rough. I drove home 50 miles and called and they said they may have overfilled the engine oil. The dipstick level is about 3 inches over the fill mark. What damage could result and how to approach the dealer about it?
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I recently purchased a 1996 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl. engine. The first 10 days I owned it it ran just fine. I then took a an hour drive to another city. After the first few stops there, as the temperature outside reached about 90, It started to sputter and idle very badly. After I got rolling it would would run fine. I decided to try to make it home. It ran fine at freeway speeds of about 70 mph. I had to stop once; it stalled out and would not start again. After waiting about ten minutes I tried again. It was still running rough, but I was able to get rolling and drove the rest of the way home without any problems until I was in town and had difficulty keeping it running at idle.
The next morning it ran fine again. A local mechanic changed the fuel filter, but the problem came back as soon as the temp neared 90 degrees. A mechanic friend who witnessed the problem said that it definitely sounded like a lack of fuel and not an electrical problem. Is there a way to troubleshoot without swapping parts? If the fuel pump is failing in warm weather, how is it possible that it runs fine at 70 mph, but not at idle? Engine temp gauge looks good. I did get one code after it died the first time (lean mixture, I think he said).
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I own a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2 with an automatic transmission. I also own a 1991 Fleetwood Cadillac with an automatic transmission. Each car has its own situation.
The ZX2 idles high (about 1000 RPM) and rumbles pretty roughly while idling. I was curious as to what the cause might be.
The Cadillac has a blown head gasket and I was wondering how expensive and what would go into fixing this myself or just how much it would run going through a dealer.
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It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
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I bought a 1987 Chevy Celebrity for $700.00. Initially it ran fine after just a slight hesitation when the accelerator was first pressed. With a little more gas applied it smoothed out and ran well. Yesterday I took a drive to the library. On the way the engine stalled. After a minute or so I was able to restart the engine and proceeded to the library. On the way home the engine again stalled. I was able to restart the engine but it idled roughly and stalled as soon as the accelerator was pressed even slightly. I tried varying the amount of gas applied from very little to pressing the pedal to the floor to rocking the gas pedal to no avail. So; idles roughly, stalls when gas is applied.
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Lately I have been having some trouble with 2002 Oldsmobile Alero v6. When the car is sitting in park I have noticed that the engine idles roughly, And when I try to drive it, the car hesitates on the acceleration every now and then. Also the emissions light (the orange one) will come on for awhile and then dissapear. At first I though it was dirty fuel injectors so I added some Fuel injector cleaner, but that has not fixed the problem. I was thinking the park plugs may need replacing?
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Changed the spark plugs, but the engine still idles rough while in drive and stopped. It's fine in park or neutral. P0303 popped back on today while warming up the car. Changing plugs significantly improved the idle...but it still is rough.
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I have had this problem since day one. The idle seems to be very rough once you give it some gas and drive the car it runs smooth as silk. The dealer told me that is the wayit should be due to the narrow V6 with one head cylinder. I have had an 02 Passat V6 and I dont remember it having a rough idle.
My other issue is again since day one when I am moving very slow like when I am backing out of my drive way there is what I would describe as a grinding sound. It does it all the time forwards and back, all day not just the first thing in the morning. Again the dealer says it is normal.
I just had my first oil change about 2 weeks ago and was hoping these were just thing that would be addressed then but they dont seem to be better or worse always the same.
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1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
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I have the strangest problem on my 2006 Audi A6: whenever I fill up my tank with gas the car has a very hard time starting. This has happened 3 times in a row now. I run the tank fairly low - to about 1 quarter tank or a little lower but never to empty....then I fill the tank. When I get in the car to start it, the engine just keeps turning over trying to start but will not start. Then I stop trying, let the ignition rest for a bit, and try to start it about 5 minutes later and it starts just fine on the first try.
What could be causing this?One thing that has also started happening around the same time as the problem above is that when I'm idling at a stop light, I notice the car may start to idle roughly and seem like it is about to die out. I am the first and only owner of this car...I take good care of it and am an easy going driver. But I do drive a lot and have about 200,000 miles on it after 7 years.
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its 1986 Ranger with a 2.9L V6 Auto 4x4, well to start with it seriously over fueling also it idles very roughly and even stalls out sometimes, when I'm trying to hold it at a speed it acts like it is missing (I guess that's from over fueling as well and it also pukes out lots of black smoke, it goes through way too much gas for a V6), but when I speed up fairly hard it acts fine until I try to maintain speed again, I have already put a tune up into it and a new EGR as well a fuel regulator and how to fix it?
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I have a really nice 1986 Ranger XLT with a 2.9 V6 (injected) and OD Automatic with about 135k miles. I've had the truck for over ten years and have been pretty happy with it. I'm still trying to correct a couple of nuisance items:
1. Sometimes it runs smoothly, and at others it has a rough idle, and once in a while it will even stall. Before it stalls, it idles or runs roughly, and will miss erratically. When it quits, it does not fade out like it is running low on gas; it quits suddenly, like the ignition is turned off. If I am driving at highway speeds, sometimes it will buck as it misses, and sometimes stalls out. But it always starts up right away afterwards. This does not happen often, but when it does, it happens several times over hours or days, and then goes away by itself for months, even years, and then comes back for another round.
I was hoping whatever was wrong would totally fail, but it has been several years and is not getting better, nor worse. Fuel mileage varies, too, from 16 to high 20's MPG. I have new low- and high-pressure fuel pumps (dual tanks), new gas and air filters, checked all the electrical connections, put in a new ignition switch, new O2 sensor, Air Flow sensor, EGR, replaced all the vacuum lines, new battery and cables, new starter, all new electrical relays, fuel pressure regulators, new fuel pump inertia switch, tuned up engine (incl. wires, cap, rotor, ign module, plugs and timing), and cleaned out the already sparkling-clean tanks.
2. My oil pressure will drop at idle to low-normal when the engine is warm. It never goes to below Normal on the gauge. I have replaced the gauge, sending unit, and oil pump. This is a long-term issue, and is not getting any better or worse.
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I have a 1999 F150 4x4 5.4, I pulled the heads due to blown head gasket. Prior to pulling heads truck started and run fine other than miss on #1 cylinder. I timed the engine according to Haynes manual and posts on this site. Truck is now hard to start and idles very rough. I does seem to smooth out when reving the engine and seems to have plenty of power. Cant find any vacuum leaks or unplugged wires.
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I feel that Bob's thread on the frequency of rough engine starts needs a companion poll; whether it's caused by a warm-up cycle that was cut short or not. It seems to me like this is what is most often fingered as the culprit of the rough engine starts, but feel free to post other theories below.
Same rules as his, for ease: ZVW30, 2010 Prius owners only.
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So for the last couple of days the car has been starting like crap. It's only when the car sits overnight or all day. The temperature is freezing here. I'll turn the key and the car cranks. There is no long cranking or anything. But when it does turn over it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders for like 3 seconds. It will sit at a very very low rpm, 300-400,then after a few seconds with it jump up to normal. The car sounds like it's going to stall but then it runs fine. My car has the UM tune currently. I know people have rough starts where the rpms are high when their car isn't tuned. I was wondering jg this was the same concept, but with the tune the rpms are forced down because of the tune.
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So I had a hose come apart that is located under the intake manifold on my 1.8t. It's some type of air hose because I can hear and feel the air coming out when the car is running, and it's also making my car run rough and miss, mostly at idle.
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Recently, my car has started to run rough with the check engine light on. I cycled the key 3 times and checked for codes. I got a code for the MAP sensor and a code for the 02 sensor. I got no codes for a misfire, so I guess the plugs and wires are okay. I bought a new MOPAR Map sensor and installed it. It still runs the same and the check engine light is still on.. My question is, is it necessary to disconnect the negative on the battery when doing this and for how long? I did disconnect it for about 2 minutes and it still was the same.
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I have a 1999.5 jetta vr6, the CEL is on (p0102 MAF sensor circuit low or something like that...). When i start it up, it often dies really soon after and until its warm it will idle really roughly. I'll have to start it up between 5 and 15 times... Once its warm and about 190 F oil temp it runs just fine, but still has a slightly rough idle.
I have a new MAF sensor coming in, or if there are any other things i should check that might contribute to the problem.
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Just bought a 2005 Jetta 2.0 4 speed automatic (non tiptronic) with 92,000 miles. This is the old 1999-2005 style, not the New Jetta that was introduced that year.
I've done research and have found that the transmissions on these bodied Jettas seem to be acting up.
This one shifts fine with a few weird things. When I start the car cold (this is in LA, so even over night the temps don't go below 60), and I put it in reverse, the car does not go into reverse for a good 3-5 seconds. This does not happen after the car has been driven for a while. After that it shifts fine, no delay.
The other symptom is sometimes the shifts from 1st to 2nd gear are a bit rough, with a thump sound, but nothing too out of the ordinary...if it wasn't for the other mentioned problem above, I wouldn't think twice about the 1st to 2nd shift as many automatic cars have some rough shifts. All the other gears shift fine.
I've done the basic research to know there could be a couple things causing this such as clutch piston seals and excessive drainback. I want some more info since I know there are my experienced people on this forum. Should I be worried and are there any things I should do immediately?
I have also found that these transmissions are sealed and can not be checked for oil levels with out taking to expert shop. I've also seen that they are very sensitive to overfill and any service needs to be performed by experts. Should I just continue and come back to this if symptoms get worse?
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