Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Coding Rejected After VW ABS Module Replacement
Jan 16, 2014
I own a VW GTI 2010. I replaced my abs module from 1K0 907 379 AM to 1K0 907 379 BE which is compatible with Park assist 2.0. I tried to code it with the previous coding with 00 added at the end but it got rejected. Since, then I've been trying very hard to code it.
I've tried at least 20 different coding some on which were provided by "16 D", a member friend in the forum, but they were all rejected. I still don't understand why other people were able to recode their module with the same previous code with 00 added at the end but I cannot. Is there any chart for generating such long coding?
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Need coding info for 2010 Jetta sedan 2.5 Air bag control module. The part # is 1K0 909 605 AD/004, Component # Airbag VW8R 036 8900. I am using a Vag-Com version 10.6 ....
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I'm set on having the European parking light feature (when the car is parked and you walk away from it). For those of you not familiar with it, by changing the Instrument Cluster coding from a 2 (USA) to either a 1 or 4 (UK or Great Britain), you can turn the car off, hit the left turn signal assuming you are parked on the right side of the street, and after getting out and locking it the 194 amber front bulb and the LED red rear ring stays on. This aids in traffic seeing your car parked on the side of the road.
Problem is that once you change the country, you get this in the ABS Module:
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 3C0-614-095-C2.clb
Control Module Part Number: 3C0 614 095 S HW: 3C0 614 095 S
Component and/or Version: ESP 440 C2 H015 0004
Software Coding: 0013752
[Code] ....
What changes need to be made in this module to avoid this? The pop-up window in the coding section doesn't say anything about different countries so I'm not sure which numbers need changed.
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Installed last week, LED no fog. Everything worked great but I had the bulb out error. Yesterday, I had the coding done and I now have an issue. Worked fine when I left the dealer and this morning I have a "Check Right Rear Light" warning. The right rear is no longer lit. Back up light works, tail light does not. I think the dealer changed byte 18 to 21 but also changed the setting from NA to something else... maybe ROW.
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Looking for info on replacing ABS module themselves? I was wondering how difficult this job can be.
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2004 Hyundai Accent
- Car won't start ...
- Remote key unlocks the car fine
- When put the key in the ignition and turn 'on' the little key indicator on the cluster doesn't come on.
- Left overnight and tried again in the morning, key indicator come on and then disappeared and wasn't able to start car.
- Key indicator now won't come on.
I spoke to mechanic and he said replace the immobilizer control module and reprogram key..
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I have a 2012 prius c and just replaced the body control module - no problem there, but now the ac and fan will not turn on. Fuses visually look ok (I don't have a tester) and they had been working previously. I live on Molokai - no prius mechanic on the island so I do my own repair when I can - how to diagnose the problem?
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I took my 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 into the dealership to have front and rear brakes replaced at 77,000 miles. Brakes were down to 3mm. They also did a complete brake flush. They called after the brake job was done and said the ABS system failed and needed to replace ABS module. Given I didn't have any problems with ABS before bringing it into the dealership, what is the chance the brake repair screwed up something with the ABS that they caused?
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So the fuel pump module on my truck is falling apart, and I figured I might as well replace it....
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I just replaced two bad modules in my 2006 (125K mile) traction battery. I replaced one other module a year ago successfully. I installed the battery last night and tried to charge it with my Hybrid Automotive charger. The charger would not go into charging mode. So I decided to check the idiot lights on the dash - plug in key and push the power button - every light on the dash lit up and stayed lit. The battery charge indicator in the display on the dash had most of the blue bars filled. I left the power on for several minutes and the engine never started (usually does regardless of state of battery charge for a minute or two when you first power up the Prius).
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I have a 2005 Prius Gen II with 114,000 miles on it. I was driving last week when it suddenly displayed a Christmas tree of lights that included VSC and the triangle of death....and of course the battery fan kicked into high gear.
Hooked it into a OBD II scanner:
P0A80 "Hybrid battery pack over temperature"
P3019 "battery block 7 becomes weak"
P3000 "DSL solenoid circut low"
P0300 "random misfire detected"
P000A "engine position system performance- bank 1"
Also C1241, C1242, c1249, c1259, c1310, c1357
I went ahead and cleared the codes. The angry lights went away but came back within minutes of driving. The car went into limp mode but I was able to make it home.
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2004 f150 - Airbag light was flashing. Received recall letter. Dealer replaced a wiring harness. Dealer did not confirm functionality of airbag prior to leaving shop. Light continues to flash. New diagnostics from dealer says error code 1885 - the control restraint module needs replacing in P&L. Does the code match the fix? Can a novice mechanic replace the module?
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I own a 2010 GTI stage 2+ with 430hp, I just had a clutch replacement from
dodson motorsport that can handle more power up to 700hp, before the replacement I had serious slipping, when I was pushing the car from 4k rpm, the "DSG OVERHEATING" blink on the dashboard, now after the replacement and the dsg software I still have slippage, do you think it comes from mechatronic? The tuners said that might be the mechatronic due to the fact that the two valves of pressure does not send too much oil to the clutches and creates slippage. Should I change only the two valves or the mechatronic complete.
This was the stock "burned" clutch
And this is the new DODSON MOTORSPORT CLUTCH PACK FOR 700whp
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Took my 99 XLT super cab to a Ford dealer to have a new key made (I have only one so can't do it myself). I was told the PAT (Passive Anti-Theft) module wouldn't communicate with their system.....
As I understand it, the PAT module communicates wirelessly to the key module under the steering column. Since the PAT module is obviously working (the truck cranks, starts and runs fine). What are they talking about?
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I bought a fob from eBay.. but I couldn't find anywhere the coding procedure.
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I just had my car coded for aftermarket HIDs and i have no high beams and a bulb out indicator on. did i miss a step in the VAG coding or will the high beams work when i put the HIDs in?
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Have one of at least four different software codes, depending on your version of the TPMS controller. For the old controller (which I used to have, and which is present in, for example, air cooled rig), the coding is 0012339. (There is also 0010339.) The new coding below is only if you have coding 0210390 and possibly if you have coding 0211390. The old coding does not work with my controller, and I do not know if the new coding works with the old controller.
Use VAG-COM:
1. to put the option to turn TPMS on/off into the MFI.
2. to get "inflation info" back into the MFI.
Change the software coding to:
0110390
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I bought myself a nice brand new Touareg 2011 (7P). I have ordered German accessories in order to activate the amber blinker instead the red and the rear fog light incl. the light switch. But now I'm stuck at the coding in order to activate the functions. Any clue which CU and address I have to change in order to teach the brake light not to blink and the fog light to function?
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Not the sensors themselves, but the actual control module in the car?
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Where the air bag module is located on a 2010 ford f-150?
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We have the basic stock CD / radio model number A518A1 and the XM Radio module with the fit kit installed in the passenger side wheel well in the trunk in a 2010 Corolla S.
Installation of the XM Radio & fit kit was dead simple and we're using the built-in OEM antenna on the roof of the car.
The problem we're having is the dreaded NO SIGNAL message when trying to listen to XM Radio.
I have the Lynx portable XM Radio installed in my car and when both cars are in the driveway, I can get the signal all day long and in her car she gets the NO SIGNAL message.
We've already called XM Radio and had the signal resent to the radio numerous times with no success.
I've gone to our Toyota dealer and the only thing they can recommend is to replace the OEM roof antenna. That part alone is $80 and you have to completely disassemble the headliner to get at the antenna.
Wiring up an actual XM antenna to take the place of the OEM roof antenna? I've searched the web and can't find an adapter plug.
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