My check engine light just came on. the engine seems to be running fine. I used my memo scanner and these codes came up. I am not sure what they mean. What exactly needs to be fixed? 2010 MK6 GTI
View 2 RepliesMy check engine light just appeared like an hour ago. In idle, it sounds like a big flicking V8 Supercharged (I actually feel the car vibrating) and I need to give it a LOT of gas to start in 1st. When I turn the key, it takes a while to start. It is flicking weird. I am dropping my car first thing in the morning, but somebody got that so far?! And the last thing I did before getting the light is reversing in a parking lot and parking my car. I have my car since december.
View 6 RepliesStarted my 2010 gen 3 Prius 3 the other day and got a bunch of what I thought was engine clatter and the check engine light came on.
The next time I started it, no noise. Anyways brought it to dealer and they diagnosed it and ordered a new manifold.
The next day when the part arrived, I brought in the car. Talked to the mechanic, a great guy, and he explained what happened. Apparently, the clatter is actually the springs rattling in the clutch mechanism of the starter motor/electric motor and not the valves like I thought.
I'm due to leave at 6am sharp on Friday morning for that pre-planned surprise 50th Bday celebration I've been talking about for my wife. This evening I get in the Elantra to pick her up and when I started the car it began to shake VIOLENTLY, like I was in a commercial dough mixer. WTF!?? I saw the check engine light was on so I shut it off immediately. Curiously, I had the car out earlier without incident.
I restarted the car and it ran smoothly this time, but the check engine light remained. Calling the dealer, I was able to get a 9am appointment for tomorrow morning. I don't have an OBD-II scan tool to check the codes, but based on the symptoms, and recent poor gas mileage.
So the check engine light on my '12 with 5K miles came on 2 days ago. Called to make an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow...and today it goes off. Is it relatively safe to fore go the appointment and see what happens? I don't think it was related to the gas cap.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a used 2011 Elantra GLS and am having some issues that the dealer cant resolve. What is happening is the the Check Engine light comes on and off. It will be on for a day or so, then go off for a day or so, so I am thinking its the gas cap. So I tighten that thing up as good as I can and pulled the negative battery terminal and problem solved. About 2 days later, and about 200 miles later on the same tank of gas, the light pops back on. So I call the dealer and took it there the next day.
On my way to the dealer, the light goes out. They try and pull the code, but the ECU is showing nothing. I asked if the ECU stores codes and I was told that when the light goes out on its own it clears the ECU of the code. Not sure if that is true, but that is what I was told. So I drive the car home. I fill the car with gas, drive about 100 miles and the light comes on. I call the dealer the same day, take it over, and on the way like the car knows it goes off and guess what? Dealer cant do nothing.
Now to make a long story longer, this is what I know. The car is not a CA car. It was sold in GA and was a prior rental. It ended up in CA and was sold as a certified pre owned from a Hyundai Dealer, I actually bought the car from a Mitsubishi Dealer and they dealer traded for this car (thats another long story) the carfax does show that it failed emissions but passed after several attempts. Which I thought was odd on a ULEV vehicle. Since I liked the car so much and the price was good, I bought it since it did pass smog eventually.
Once I get the car home, I do my usual thorough look. I clean everything to my standards. I am cleaning the engine compartment and took the engine cover off. 1st thing I noticed was the Spark Plug Coil Packs all the 10mm bolts that hold them in were loose and 2 of them were completely off!! So I decided thats odd, so I pulled the plugs out and they were the NGK's so just in case I put a brand new set of the NGK laser Iridiums back in and tighten everything up. Then I notice where the PCV valve is on the valve cover, the hose that goes to that to the intake tube does not look stock. The hose looks like fuel line hose that someone put on it and the clamps are not stock. So I am canvasing for OEM replacements of those parts now. Then when I was installing the mud guards, on the drivers side rear tire where the gas filler tube is I notice another non OEM clamp. So someone was messing with this area of the car too.
The car is averaging 26-28mpg's in the city and I have been getting 35-37mpg's highway so I don't think there is anything major wrong here. I believe that either the PCV valve hose is kinked and may be causing a fault, or that since it was a prior rental that people were over filling the gas tank and maybe blew the expansion valve in the gas tank, causing the fault. I have no way to prove this since the light goes on and off and clears the ECU every time I take it in.
Last Fri the check engine light came on so the first thing I did was check the gas cap. It was loose so I retightened it and went on my way expecting the lght to eventually go out. It was still on several hours and a couple of stops later so I called my dealer and explained to my service rep what was going on. He told me to give it a few days and to call him if it didn't go out by today. He said it takes a few days for the computer to reread the system. So we drove it all weekend and it finally went out this morning (Tues). With just under 145000 miles I'm wondering if I should get them to put it on the scanner anyway. It's$130 to do the scan so it's a bit of a ding in the budget. Do the hybrid batts need to be checked,indicator light or not? Here in Ca I think they have a 150000 mi warrenty?
View 15 RepliesI have a 2010 rx350 and had a big oil leak recently because the car shop didn't install correctly the oil filter seals. It didn't leak right away and my wife drove till the check engine light came on, but it was late... no oil in the dipstick... I think no oil at all but the car didn't display low oil level warning. only a beep when i turned the steering wheel.
I had it towed and luckily my wife stopped the car when the light came on, no harm done the mechanic said. But I think it has less power and the engine noise is a little louder than before..., so maybe the engine has a Little wear. but there is no smoke. Should I continue to use the same thin oil.. 0w20. or use a thick like 5w30??
I have a 2010 gen 111 with nav system etc, the other day a orange check engine light came on, I took it to our Toyota Dealer and they said that I had mud and gravel up in the car, near the fuel intake area, and that the carbon capture canister/switch was damaged by the dirt and I need to get it replaced. I asked if I could simply not make the repair due to the fact that the electronics system would eventually not be able to read the H Carbon readings and the car would burn more fuel.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra Limited. Lately, the check Engine light comes on when I accelerate from a full stop and stays on for 3-5 seconds. It has also happened when I accelerate to get on the interstate (that just started today). There is no issue with the car accelerating. Everything else seems to be fine. It's just the Check Engine light that is freaking me out a bit. I've had the car since June so I'm not ready for any major issues. It started two days ago. I took the gas cap off and put it back on last night to see if that was the cause but it's still happening today.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Jetta with the 2.5L 5-cylinder that recently threw on the check engine light for 2 days, then the light shut off. It began once I started the car on a coldish (~20F) morning after it had been sitting curbside for several days with the passenger side wheels sitting on about 6 inches of snow so the car was listing to the side. The car fired up immediately but ran extremely rough for about 10 seconds (the engine throbbed sharply about 2-3 times per second, which could be felt through the steering wheel & seat, accompanied by a muted clunk) before I turned it off.
During this time the CEL flashed on and off and then stayed on. I popped the hood, peered stupidly at the plastic engine cover, and restarted the car about a minute later and it ran normally, but the CEL stayed on. I drove it for two days (~50 miles) with the CEL on, but on the third day (today) the CEL did not turn on. The car has been running normally for all three days. What might have caused the rough idle/CEL and whether I can pretend it never happened since the car seems to be running normally for the third day in a row and the CEL has turned off on its own?
My check engine light went off last month and when I had it looked at my dealership they said it was due to the seal where the gas cap locks into I believe. Anyway, a week later my light went off again and now they are saying it is the charcoal cannister which I found out is very expensive. Here are my two questions. First of all, can I get this part replaced and installed at a non-dealership? My second question is since they reset my check engine light, it came back on a few days later for two days and then turned off completely. Should the light have turned off on its own? Should I be concerned that it is no longer on? It just makes me wonder if they diagnosed this issue correctly or not.
View 7 RepliesI bought a used 2010 GMC Terrain with 28,000 miles on it in April of 2013. Two weeks after I purchased the car I heard a knocking sound and the check engine light came on. Took it to Dealer and they said the car is low on oil. They put in oil. Two weeks later check engine light comes back on. They put it through a test for oil consumption and that they said the car is using an excessive amount of oil. So they had to change out all of the pistons. One month later the check engine light comes back on.
Dealer calls GM and they say to reset computer....... three weeks later check engine light comes back on....... GM now says to dealer it needs a new engine computer. Not an hour after I pick the car up from it lastest stay at the dealer the light comes back on. GM doesn't know what it is. The mechanic at the dealer is awesome he did some research and thinks the problem is the gas. I now need to put in 90 or above so the engine won't knock. Not happy right now I didn't think that I would have to put in a high octane gas when I bought the car. Terrain owners do you have to put in a high octane gas?
Filled up my 2012 Lexus Rx450h in NJ. They don't have self-service there, so I don't blame myself, but gas cap not tightened. Check Engine light is on, I tightened gas cap, light still on. Is there just a fuse I can pull to reset the warning light? There seem to be a few fuses labeled ECU. Exactly which one should I pull ? If I don't, how soon before it will it reset on its own?
View 6 RepliesI installed an Injen cold air intake and 2 days later, the check engine light went on. I had it reset at the dealer and next day, again. Am I stuck with this or is there a way to keep it off, other than putting back the original air box?
View 18 RepliesCheck engine light and P0010 code in my Gen III 2010 Prius...
View 2 RepliesI plugged in a OBD2 reader and its show misfire on Cylinder 1.
I haven't driven the car for 4 days, and when i started the engine this morning, the engine show knocking when the regular engine kicks in (rough). i will be bringing the car in tomorrow (dealer). my car is a 2011 with 16k miles, strange for this to happen so early in age.
So I got gas 4 days ago and today the check engine light came on afterwards. Went to auto zone to read code and it had to do with the gas pressure being slightly low (gas cap). So I got gas and resealed the gas cap. Well, it's been about 2 days since then and it hasn't gone off. Does it need to be reset or does it take more time?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
View 3 RepliesGot a 2010 Prius with about 61000 miles on it. Starting yesterday the check engine light stay on all the time (As soon as I started the car). I tried open and tighten the gas cap but no luck and check engine light still stay on all the time. What could be the problem? Will any ODB scanner able to diagnose the check engine light code or need a specific one?
View 6 RepliesJust picked up a Toyota certified 2010 Prius III....less than a week later, the check engine light comes on. Took it right back to the dealer...in which they said its the air/fuel sensor. Toyota warranty services was closed, so they need to check tomorrow if its covered by the remaining warranty or not.
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