Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Car Stalled Out And Shut Off
Sep 14, 2011
So my girlfriend drives a 2010 gti with DSG trans. Recently she was pulling out of a driveway onto a main road when her car basically stalled out and shut off on her. This has only happened the one time, but where she was pulling out was onto a 45 mph rd, pretty scary place to shut down.
I had her take it to the dealer and they found no faults and said her software and everything is up to date. She keeps up with her maintenance.. It's certainly concerning knowing that this could happen and can't be reproduced at the dealer to diagnose.
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Just got this injectors done. Filled the tank up. Drove for 1/4 of a tank. Went to leave out yesterday. Made it out of my subdivision and down the road 3 miles or so. I was going 55 when the truck stalled. I tried to start the ignition it would turn over, but wouldn't catch to stay running. I did this at least 8 times. Friend came with Ether. Tried 3 separate times, truck started going dead. So i was about to give up... Tried it 1 last time, it fired up like a champ!
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Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
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So I was driving home yesterday, drove fine for about 14mi. Then I got a oil pressure low warning light shut off engine. The engine sounded no weird noises or anything so I shut it off checked the oil and it was full and fairly clean. Started it back up sounded fine drove it almost all the way home and it came back on, again no noises and oil was full. I noticed though that it came on mostly coming to a stop or taking off when the rpms hit about 1500-1700.
So I went to the shop I work at and hooked a pressure gauge up and I got 15psi. At idle and 35psi. at 2000rpms. With the engine temp in the normal range. I got the spec from all data which only shows the spec for the 2000 rpm range no idle spec, which was 29psi-65psi I think. So it sounded like it was okay. So I went to advance got a new oil pressure switch it didn't work.
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My avante/elantra model is 1.6GLS year 2012.. last friday, it stalled. Saying, i had a low fuel, no digits on fuel tank, one bar left and linking with fuel light on. took the car to petrol station about 200metres. fueled up and drove few 50metres and engine lost power and jerking and died. I could start the car easily, engage gear to D, and able to accelerate , BUT it goes stalling or lost power when accelerate more than 15KM p/hour... it just cant go more than that... engine dies off. check engine ON. Start engine back on again, REV engine continuously, and it slows down above 3/4 rpm with a loud sound like revving without air filter.
So I called up mechanic, he change plugs, still same. he plugged OBD, and gets a KNOCK SENSOR reading on screen, he resetted it, and now the engine has a knocking kind of sound when rev and still can't move.
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First time Hyundai owner. Just bought a new Elantra 2013 for my soon to be 16 year old daughter. We picked up the car from the dealer last Sunday and the car has about 40 miles on the odometer. Tonight my daughter and I we took it out for a drive and I was driving at a speed of 30 mph and the car suddenly went dead, no power , no lights, simply nothing just complete darkness. I called Hyundai roadside assistance and they towed the car to the dealer. The tow truck driver tried to see if it was battery related and he brought a portable battery and hooked it up to the car's battery but that did nothing to power up or restart the car. This was very scary as it was like an invisible hand just pulled the plug off and switched off the car. I am very worried now as this car is for my daughter and I would hate to think what could happen driving alone or on busy roads, or at night. What could it be?
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Started my car late morning, less than 24 hrs after buying it..it had been sitting for maybe 12 hrs. After it started, I sat there a minute figuring out a stereo thing...it died, stalled. I thought to myself 'ok maybe I was in gear and took my foot of the clutch (last three years driving smg)'. Started it, backed out, forgot about it.
After dinner tonight, started it...few seconds later it stalled out again. Again I thought maybe it was in gear and I eased off the clutch...made sure it was in neutral, started it again, arched the tach drop down a bit..stalled.
I couldn't get it to repeat a third time tonight, on the third it started and stayed. Nor did it happen 10 mins later. So I'll let it sit overnight pay close attn tomorrow and test. It seems to have to do with 'cold starts' if you can call them that...I mean..it was 96f tonight when this happened.
Any thoughts? I'm hoping it's something to do with being new and growing pains..but that have this happen on 2 diff occasions in the first 36 hrs is very concerning to me given my past vw experiences years ago.
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Three weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
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On the way home this evening the car just dropped revs and stalled. I pulled to the side of the road and tried to restart the car. The car started, idle for a second, then bogged and stalled again. I am leaning towards my MAF and the same thing occurs every time I try to start it. Only mods are flapper and APR 93oct tune.
I do have a drop in and have a feeling I screwed my MAF w/ the oiled filter.
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I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/tiptronic that my wife has been driving for a long time. The other day it stalled on her, which it has done before but this time it wouldn't start. I had it towed to the house and when I turned the key it sounded like the starter was spinning but not engaging the flywheel. I took the starter out and it tested fine. I put it back in and still the same result. I bought a new starter and it is doing the same thing. The battery is fine and the flywheel turns fine manually. I am stumped about the not cranking issue. I do realize that the stall and starter problem are not related but unless I can get it started I can't see how I can take care of the stalling issue.
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Yesterday there was a lot of rain. The car stalled during the rain at approx 2k rpm on 4th gear. I tried starting it and it did nothing as if battery was dead. Before this I was getting alternator workshop icon and lost of power steering (I believe because of PS belt). Anyways, Car doesn't want to crank, starter won't do anything but click.
Could the motor have gotten water in it by the CAI? There was little condensation on the MAF but not enough to get to the throttle body. Anyways, once they towed it home I removed coils and spark plugs and started it to remove any water but starter won't go.
I have checked all fuses, I've connected Vagcom and shows nothing since car won't start. Is there a sensor that goes bad with the rain? I've heard of crank shaft sensor, would it mean anything here? Has starter gone bad? Is the motor frozen up?
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Mon. Dec. 12 Cincinnati had record 1.95" rain. I hit a puddle (which I later found out was 1' deep) with my 2011 TDI. A wave of water came up over hood & turbocharger sucked it into the engine. Stalled out, wouldn't restart. Towed to dealer, they said have to replace engine. Ins. Adjuster saw that, other water damage, totaled car. Santa gave me a 2012 red Golf TDI.
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Coming home from a 2500km round road trip and back. At the time I was about half way home during the 1300km day, the car is in D and has been all day and it has been about 500km since I last came to a complete stop. I stop at a red light on the highway in a small town on my way through, look at the tach and see the rpms, once its dropped down to first, dip down to about 300 or so, then quickly back up to 550/600 which is its normal idle, then all the sudden it stalls out completely killing the motor. Cycle the key and start it up right away and it drives as usual. his might be the 2nd time this has happened. R32's and DSG.
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I currently have a MKIV Golf. The other day i was out and about and i was going through an intersection. It had some deep gutters, or divets, whatever you want to call them to allow water to flow through the intersection. I didn't notice how deep they were until i hit them, being it was night and I didn't think going the speed limit i would even need to worry about that at a busy intersection. Anyways, i hit it, heard it, felt it. Didn't think of it much since it didn't seem that hard of a scrape. Got some food and ended up driving for another ten min.
My oil light came on and i ended up driving a block or 2 to the gas station. I stalled out on the highway right before i got to the gas station and had to try popping my clutch to make it into the parking lot as it was a busy highway. It restarted and i got into the parking lot fine. immediately turned off the engine. After half an hour and multiple dry dipstick checks and 3 quarts of oil on the floor i ended up finding out that there was a bullet size hole in my oil pan.
The only thing is that the fact the engine sounded horrible, but didn't seize up, and i don't know how long the engine was completely dry, should i take it to a shop so that there isn't a possibility that damage has been done to the engine? or should me replacing the oil pan, adding the proper oil and amount be sufficient for the engine to run fine. I don't want to take the chance as I've already been through engine problems with an s13 i had that seized up on me because of other oil issues.
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Its done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
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I was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
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So the Jetta started running rough, then stalled after starting. Couldn't drive it home so I had to tow it. Got to the house and read codes. It gave me P0135, P0171, and P0321. I researched and saw that the only code of these three whose symptoms included stalling was P0321, so I replaced the Crankshaft Position sensor. Tried starting it, and it wouldn't start at all. I kept at it for a while thinking it would catch, but after 5 minutes the battery was too low to crank. I tested the old crankshaft sensor, and had resistance of about 900 ohms, so it was in range. For giggles, I pulled the new one and checked it, also in range. I put one of them back in, and proceeded to scratch my head. Charged the battery up, and now not sure what to do. I need to do a very close hose inspection, but there are no obvious tears or breaks.
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I came home last night and rolled into the driveway. With the car in neutral I took my foot off the clutch and the car stalled. I get in the car this morning to go to work, and it's still happening. I put it in reverse to see if it will drive.....and now it's stuck in reverse.
I can't get it into any other gear or neutral..........even when the car is off. I've unattached the linkage, and the shift knob moves freely.....so I don't think it's that. I found these old threads (one even mine)
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So I'm lead to believe that the master/slave cylinder is acting up again. Also, how can I get it into neutral so I can at least get it towed and stop blocking my driveway?
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So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
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I heard noises like a small pump noise and a hissing air sound above the muffler area. The car had been sitting for hours and no key fob close to it. I was climbing under it looking at something else when I heard it. Sounds like a tiny electric motor running with an air hiss. Passenger side. Just bought the vehicle last week. It has 27k miles on it. Had to replace battery the other day. Said battery was replaced a year ago. Wonder if this is hurting the battery? Start great in the morning. Vapor fuel pump?
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I have a 2010 Prius that completely shut down in the middle of the interstate, I had to have it towed to Toyota. No clue where else to take it so I took it to the dealership.....
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