Just filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
So the other day as I was trying to accelerate my car had absolutely no power at all. it almost seemed like it went into a limp mode or something of the sort. No matter what gear or how much gas i gave it, it barely chugged along at more than an idle. I pulled over turned it off, then waited a few seconds and turned it back on, same deal. Once more, I turned it off and back on and finally, it seemed to be ok. It flashed a warning light but it cleared after I turned off the car.
View 4 RepliesMy truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
View 14 Replies2006 Montana 3.9.
Went into 'limp mode' (dash says, reduced engine power)
Mechanic friend scanned it: It indicated Cam Sensor. He bought a Cam Sensor but the next scan indicated Throttle Position Sensor. TPS is not available separate from the throttle body.
It seems like it might be a dirty fuel filter to me but it looks like the only fuel filter is on the pump in the fuel tank. Is that the case? Auto parts people say no other filter. Is there something we can do besides the full blown job of pulling the tank, and removing the fuel pump; some kind of additive or treatment to clean the fuel filter?
Why is it still the norm to have the pump etc. in the tank where you can't access it?
So I was driving kinda hard yesterday on the highway, and it was about 80 degrees outside. At some point in the drive, I got no boost from the turbo at all (my gauge also was showing no boost). I pulled over, stopped the car, and restarted it, and the car was back to normal. Is this something I should be worried about? I am running 93 program APR Stage 1+ with VWR intake and HPFP.
View 24 RepliesSo on cold mornings my r has been kicking on the epc light and gone to limp mode. The only codes are for the coolant temp sensor and an intermittent accelerator position sensor. Would the temp sensor really cause this? After awhile I can start it up and it runs fine.
View 7 RepliesMy Jetta mkiv transmission went into limp mode recently. Took it into shop. They checked it out and they replaced solenoids as well as the TCU. Car still goes into limp mode. It doesn't happen all the time but enough to piss me off. Any thoughts?? Car only has 140000 miles.
View 1 Replies03 manual goes into limp mode with ac on like turbo has no power and wont go past 65. No engine light comes on though. Does engine light have to come on to go into limp mode??
I don't have Vag Com. But i'm familiar with diesels. Maybe something is losing vacuum when a/c comes on because i know the ducts and all that work off vacuum in most cars. Does the ducts for TDi work off vacuum also??? Maybe not enough vacuum going to VNT activator?? I'm clueless with these cars.
Just had this happen to me yesterday and cant figure it out. Cruising at normal speeds and shifting into 5th gear at about 2000 rpm. when to apply throttle and the car chocked or slipped then regained power. Almost like it went into limp mode for a second or traction control kicked in. Im not sure what it could be.
View 11 RepliesNew to the jetta (used to own Saabs so not new to issues) OK, 2003 jetta 2.0 CEL is on for the CAM Post sensor. Car is in limp mode. has been for a while before I touched the car. I have replaced the Cam post sensor, I replaced the Crank Post sensor, replaced the coil pack, replaced the water pump and the timing belt. I have searched a lot of the other threads before posting this one. Triple checked the timing (3 people did not just me) I replace all the other stuff because I had codes the water pump and the timing belt just because they were due. i had one last code P0343 so when i replaced the WP and the TB i replaced the sensor. Still in limp mode, still have the code i pulled the plug on the Cam post sensor. then i said to my self this car should NOT start. but it did start and i drove it around a little, shut it down and car started up again so I am at a complete loss.
View 8 RepliesI have a 02 Jetta TDI, I have had the car
For about 8mo, and have been fighting a random limp mode problem the whole time.
I have gone thru and changed the common issues, N75, MAF, actuator on the turbo, and changed all the vacuum lines, fuel filter..... Etc. I'm to the point I want to light the car on fire, and see if the engine light goes off!!! Is there something that I have overlooked.
I got into my car about 5 minutes ago and while driving i noticed a ample amount of power loss. I would go half throttle and my rmp's would go up by my speed seemed lacking even full on it it seemed to be lagging and was a slow climb to 60. Could it be my turbo not putting out or something more serious. Its a 99 1.8t ....
View 10 RepliesWent out to start my car today it had a rough time cranking over and when It started had a cel and in limp mode.
View 8 RepliesI currently own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. It is currently tuned for 15 psi supposedly. I have never seen that number been hit and the highest it will go(only in 4th and 5th gear) is 13-14psi on a good day. And even when it does get there it does not hold the boost what so ever. It will start losing boost almost as soon as it reaches those numbers. Another thing is my MAF is currently unplugged and is making my car throw a code. When MAF is plugged in it cuts out boost and goes into "limp" mode.
Here are some engine mods that may be apart of this issue:
- Front mount intercooler, full intercooler pipe kit
- Oem diverter valve
- N75 j valve
- ACHTUNING tune on 15 psi not sure which stage
- Forged turbo inlet pipe
- 032 motorsports crankcase breather hose conversion
- Ecs tuning
- 2.0t coilpacks and mounting plate
- AWP head
2001 Jetta 1.8T wolfsburg
When I start my car the ASR light is already on and I cannot turn it off by hitting the button. It's just permanently on. Then as I start to drive and step on the throttle and get above 3000rpm the ECP light turns on and my car goes into "limp mode". Then in idle the engine stutters and RPMs go up and down, up and down. I'll turn off the car and the ECP light disappears but comes right back on again after getting above 3000rpm.
Thing is, these issues only appeared immediately after the following:
-Disconnected and reconnected CCM (checking for faulty wiring, battery was connected during this)
-Disconnected battery terminals for 3 minutes and reconnected them (no key in ignition)
Did I cause an issue by disconnecting battery?
So this morning I was driving to work - normal driving no hard accelerations. As I stopped at a trafic light the car felt going into a limp mode? - engine started to misfire - no smoke from exhaust - but felt is was going to stall. Also the idle started fluctuate from low 600 to high 1100. At low RPMs the engine felt stalling but when I drove around 3000 RPM in 4, 5th gear felt fine.
I was able to plug in the APR dongle and got 7 fault codes: 1)DTC Not Found, 2) Idle Air Control System RPM HIgher than Expected; 3) Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected and 4,5,6 and 7) Cylinder 1,3,4,2 Misfire Detected.
I am APR 1+ with VWR CAI, 20K on 93 oct.
Coil? Injector? Manifold? HPFP?
So, I've been throwing an overboost code pretty randomly. It doesn't throw a CEL but the car does go into limp mode until I restart it. It's happened around 10 times in the past 2 months, mostly under WOT around 4500-5K. I've ran some logs at WOT and nothing really stands out to me with my limited knowledge except for random misfires in all 4 cylinders. I bought the car back in October and it already had the tune so I'm not certain if it's the most updated file.
View 15 RepliesA few months ago, my '00 Sentra developed a rough idle but I ignored it because it wasn't too bad, until recently at least. It had been getting progressively worse so I went out and bought some CRC MAF cleaner, which solved the rough idle altogether for about a day. After doing some errands, I started the car but it was now stuck in limp home mode, not matter how much gas I gave it, she wouldn't top 20 MPH and 2.5k revs.
I bought a new MAF, and that made the problem worse: in any drive gears or reverse, when given any gas, the engine would stall and die but when in neutral, I can rev it as high as I want to. I reset the computer and cleaned the new sensor to no avail. After re-installing the old sensor (which was visibly broken, it was missing an entire wire assembly), it will run poorly but will now drive with some quirks, and I don't trust it further than around the block.
My question is: with the new sensor, do I need an ECU reprogram, did I receive a bad sensor, or is there a compound problem? (I've heard with similar issues: bad alternator, bad TPS, bad IAC module, dirty IAC or TPS, clogged fuel filter, bad fuel pump, dirty air filter, among others.)
I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
I have an automatic (ugh) 2002 Jetta 1.8T that is displaying some fun stuff. My kneejerk reaction is that the ECU is croaking but wanted to run it by some people with more experience/smarts.
Here's the deal. I don't get any codes, ever. Sometimes, when I turn the ignition to on (Before starting) all of my warning lights are dim and will flicker, and the gear indicator at the bottom of the cluster rapidly switches between each gear. If I start the car like this, I can hear the shift lock randomly engaging and disengaging. If I actually try to drive, it'll shift hard into reverse, shift normally into drive, and then drive in limp mode. I only drove this way three times before figuring out the next bit. Each time, either the traction control or air bag warning lights came on and stayed on.
I've noticed that if I turn the ignition to "on" and it's acting up, all I have to do is leave it on for a few seconds, turn the ignition back off, and turn it back on; sometimes it'll take 2-3 tries but it always seems to work. Then the warning lights come on bright and steady, the car starts like normal, and drives great.
So, is it the ECU? Is it demons?
I have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.