Golf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Bad Grinding When Shift From 1st To 2nd Gear
Nov 16, 2012
when i shift from 1st gear to 2nd gear, above 2500 rpms i get a really bad grinding, i am just under 50,000 miles so it is going to the dealership to get fix. It also kicks me out of second gear some time.
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Have a question when I shift slow from 2nd to 3rd my o2j tranny doesn't grind but when I shift fast from 2nd to 3rd it grinds it happens starting at 3000 Rpms thru 6000 Rpms. It also doesn't happen when I shift from 4th to 3rd. Have performed a tranny fluid change. Along with replacing the clutch at 1500 miles ago. The engine is AWP.
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Buying a vr4 this weekend with dr650 turbos... The only problem with car is when you shift into reverse it grinds and won't go into gear, I'm thinking its the reverse synchro?
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Why my car is grinding gear when I shift from 1st to 2nd, & yes the clutch is fully depleted and still grinds when I shift.
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I have a f1ta 5 speed trans on my 4.9 and when i press the clutch in and shift into 1st gear it makes a grinding noise then goes into gear after a little patience. but if i press the clutch and wait a few seconds, then shift into 1st its fine and goes right in.... maybe syncronizers not meshing or they're worn? or could it possibly be a low fluid prob? idk, it just started happening.
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I am now getting a grinding noise when I shift from first to second gear. It sounds like the two metals rubbing each other. Its not happening all the time, but for the past two days a bit frequently
I had reported this grinding noise when I turn left a month back. Was thinking because of my worn out tyres, but apparently not.
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I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
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So my 2010 Camry LE with manual transmission has developed what I figure will be an expensive problem. It oftentimes grinds when I shift from 1-2. If I pause between the two it's fine, but if i just go straight to 2nd it grinds about 75% of the time so that I have to go back to neutral, let out the clutch, reengage and THEN go into 2nd gear. What could cause this? I'm stumped. There's no issues with any other gears and it does the same thing if I got from 3-2 also. It's to the point where I try to just skip using that gear. It's got about 135k miles.
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So i was trying to adjust my freinds shift linkage on his o2j and i got a little ahead of myself and forgot to put the shift tower in the home position before making the adjustment. after i realized you can't shift into second ( either that or 2nd and 4th are extremely close together now and feel like the same gear ). I try to get it in home position even with the cables off ( did this for experimentation) and still wouldn't go into home position...meh. still have all the other gears including reverse .
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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Background facts:
Tranny swapped from my 4 speed auto to a 1.8t o2j 5spd
13lb. Light flywheel
Powerflex dogbone mounts
Peloquin LSD
The problem: Very hard to get a smooth shift from gear to gear. Trust me, I know how to drive, but I can always feel the car shifting into a different gear if you know what I'm saying. On my friend's bone stock Jetta, I just let the clutch out without gas in between shifts and you don't feel a thing.
On my car, you feel EVERYTHING. People have told me the light flywheel will make the ride more uncomfortable in many ways, especially since the RPMs drop much quicker in between shifts than stock.
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My Toyota 2010 Prius has a strange starting problem. Once in a while the shift gear will not go into D or R, display keeps saying start the car from P and foot on the brake. After several tries and waits in between the car starts OK.
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So not having the car for more then a week one tank of gas. I was driving yesterday and as i went to go into 5th it grind. Not sure whats going on but at regular shifting it grinds if i wait till the rams drop it goes in fine.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic with the Tiptronic transmission. last week I went to put the transmission into Tiptronic mode and it would not go in. it like crunch to the right and would not shift gear up or down nor would the gear number appear on the digital dash.
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VW says I might need a new clutch. I have 85k on original. When are your clutches going? Do I need to change the dmflywheel as well?
i thought it might be a bad synchro. It only does it when warmed up and on downshifts. I can let the rpms drop all the way down before shifting and it will grind. rev matching i think still grinds. wont do it cold.
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I have been experiencing some grinding when I go from 2nd to 3rd, so the first thing that i did was to replace my trans oil but it did nothing so I went to my mechanic and he said that I need to replace the gear synchronizer. What is the part number and the real name, what i need is what is in the picture below.
My car is a mk4 1.8T with 5 gears....
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My car has the clunk whenever I shift into gear (I have a manual) at low speeds and in low gears. Brought the car into the dealership and they think it's the front axles. Had one replaced (as they thought it was the passenger side axle) and clunk is still there. Went in to have the second one replaced, but part was not right. Waiting on the new part to arrive this week.
Axle? I honestly think it's tranny or gear related. Other than that, the car has been ok. I am going to work on sound deadening this week, getting my front strut bar installed and doing some research about the rear suspension.
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All of a sudden, my car doesn't like to stay in first gear? I tried to put it into first gear and it wouldn't stay there, it made a grinding noise when I tried to go. So, if I want to start going, I literally have to hold it there to keep it in first gear.
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Just recently, my car 6 speed has started acting up and it's got me worried. First, and most notably, when I go to shift into 4th gear, there is a slight grinding noise and its a little tough to shift into 4th. Once it is in 4th gear, though, it shifts and drives fine with no other grinding noise. A buddy of mine says it might be the synchros, but what that means or how I can fix it.
Also, it has been having a rough idle on startup for a while now. It will idle at around 1,200 RPMs for a bit when I start it up, and it will kind of backfire out the exhaust a bit, kind of like it's a misfiring coilpack or something, but will usually go away after I drive for a bit.
Driving my car right now isn't very fun when I am only worrying about what's wrong with it, so I really want to get it fixed sooner rather than later, before these develop into larger problems.
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I have a 2012 Elantra Limited with about 36000 Miles. I purchased this car used with 12000 miles. I commute to work about 90 miles round trip a day mostly highway. I usually average about 33 or 34mpg. Recently, my mileage has fallen to 22 or 23 mpg and I have noticed my car having problems shifting. When accelerating normally, 1st - 3rd shift normally. Once I get into 4th, the car won't shift into 5th unless I manually do it with the gear lever or play with the throttle. If I just accelerate it will go all the way up to over 6000 rpm before it will shift. There are no problems with down shifting. Once it gets into 5th it will shift into 6th normally. There are not warning lights on and it doesn't always do it so of course when I need to recreate it I can't.
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I have 2011 Elantra at ~20,000 mile, and strange things started happening since last year...and it kinda blew up today.
My dashboard has been flickering randomly for a while, as in everything goes dark and turns up again in the middle of driving.
And today it turned off and turned on (as it usually does), and the dashboard seemed broken; speedometer stuck at 0 mph, rpm meter stuck at 0, all warning lights turned on, gas meter going up and down and stuff.
Fortunately enough I was close to home so I drove it back home, and my gear shift was stuck at neutral (I could switch b/w N and D).
So I took out the shift lock release? thing and managed to put the gear to P and pull my key out. I stepped out of my car and I smelled something burning...not a very good sign. What should I do? Well I think I need to take it to dealership tomorrow but I'm not sure if it'll be safe to drive...
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