I do what's written in the book (hold brake, turn ESP off, S-mode) but when i press the throttle I cannot go over 1000-1100 RPM - after a slight vibration the clutch seem to disengage and the engine goes idle. What am I doing wrong or is my version without LC?
The car is 2009 Golf 6 1.4 TSI 160hp DSG.
Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
I purchased my 2013 F350 PSD July of 2014 and immediately noticed "the shudder" when the engine was lugged down to 1000-1100 rpms on a hill. Sounding like somewhere around the turbo belching air too. At first I was startled but learned to manually downshift to higher rpms and it will stop. Once or twice I tried accelerating out of it and it shuddered as bad as the poster who said it made the steering shudder too.
My truck has 16,000 miles and I never let the rpms drop now. So I figure I have a real problem I'm not imaging. What should I tell my dealer is the TSB or remedy ?
I had this same issue on my old 03 GTI. Trying to blip the throttle on downshifts there's a significant lag when I press the throttle to when the rpms actually spin up. Nearly a second I'd say. Goes towards feeling like the pedal is very disconnected from the motor. I know it's drive by wire and maybe that's the problem but perhaps there's a maf mod or something I can do to improve the response. The car has a vf stage 1 SC kit on it.
View 3 RepliesI have been experiencing a strange sort of loud induction/air turbulence/chirp noise right when I begin to apply the throttle at 750-1000 RPMs. It's the type of induction noise you would expect to hear from a car with an open filter intake if you shifted into 6th gear at very low speed(bogging, chirpy noise) Only been happening for a week.
I have an APR intake, and my initial thought was that maybe the tone of the intake had changed a little since it has gotten colder....but you actually cannot even hear the noise under the hood, let alone near the intake. It is only noticeable from inside the cabin. It happens regardless of clutch engagement and a/c. Car drives fine other than that.
It started happening with the soundaktor unplugged. I actually plugged it back in since then in hopes that it might mask the noise.
Video (GTI 6MT)
I cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle body cleaner and now the motor idles at 1000-1300 rpm. Is this normal for a newly cleaned throttle body? How can I bring down the idling rpm?
View 4 Replies2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
I just bought a 2001 celica vvtl-i and am struggling with the throttle sensitivity. If I press it just a millimeter it revs to 3k and makes it hard to set off as I then lift off the throttle and stall it! It's a bit embarrassing in car parks. Is this normal or just mine? Also when dropping a gear with the windows shut I can hear a metallic rattling may be the exhaust but it's just after raising the clutch when shifting down a gear, not up though. Is there a way to alter the throttle? I can adjust the cable but that will just make it engage later and presumably still be as sensitive when it does.
View 1 RepliesPicked up the car 5 days ago but noticed when I press the clutch and rev the engine, there's a throttle delay/hesitation and a simultaneous sound like "psshht". The sound is almost like when you're shifting a turbo car with a blow off valve.
Other than that the car is great. 2012 Elantra GL manual ...
Recently, my car has been having issues starting. It will start if I get a boost, but will be dead if I turn it off again. Also, while I'm driving, the airbag, ABS, and traction lifts all come on, and eventually my radio will shut off, but after a few minutes the radio will come back on and the warning lights will go off. When i first start the car it idles as it should but if I rev it will idle at about 1100 RPM. What might be causing all of this? Battery? Alternator? Or EPC?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 gti and been having some problems with my throttle. Few codes came up for the longest time on and off. So one day after work I started my car and it started just didn't idle high then quit on me so I decided to take it to a local dealer to have the throttle body adpt and it was fine for about a week. Then same codes came back on witch was my angle sensor 2 throttle and position sensor too. So I got a new throttle body been a month I've had no problems until today. It stalled on me so I scanned it and codes for my valve was malfunctioning.
View 1 RepliesSo my car started doing some weird things. at idle and only at idle it will go up and down between 1100 and 1500 rpm. No throttle input no clutch input or brake input. I do have a CEL on but when I read the code it gives me 01314 on brake electronics setting. I'm using a vchecker pro. I go into all the engine brake airbag and trans menus and do clear fault codes and this fixes it but id like to know what the actual problem is.
View 1 RepliesI have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
my car is losing a quart of oil every 800 to 1000 miles the car is not leaking or burning oil. why is this happening and where is the oil going .how do i stop this from happening the car is a 2009 toyota camry with a four cylinder engine
View 19 RepliesMy 2009 Hyundai Accent 3-door GS (I believe) recently starting idling around 1,000-1,400 RPM. The car (since I bought it new) has always read "0" on the tachometer when I was stationary. Nothing has happened to suggest this problem would appear.
The engine isn't very loud to begin with, so I'm not absolutely positive that it isn't just an error with the tachometer, but I THINK that the car is actually idling higher than usual. The tachometer works fine otherwise, when I am driving.
What could be causing this and the corresponding fix? The car is under warranty, so I want to attack this issue as soon as possible.
I wanted to change oil at 1000 miles on my new 2010 FX4. The dealer said that I should wait till 2500 miles or so because it still has the break in oil in it.
Does he know what he is talking about or should I change it? He did say he would change it and take my money if I really wanted to.
Maybe my thinking is still old school about changing the oil right away with a new engine.
Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Matrix that has 127,000 miles on it. It has had several sources of oil loss in the past year and now it just seems to be burning it. I am very skeptical that a toyota engine is burning oil at 127,000miles. I replaced a part called a pcv valve as well as a seal that was causing leakage. Now I am losing about a quart every 1000 miles and no leaks can be found. Any other things that would cause oil loss besides burning?
View 9 Replies2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
I have a 2011 corolla XRS 5 speed with about 32,000 km's. There is a squeak when i press the clutch down coming from outside the car. I brought in my car for scheduled maintenance and they initially said that the clutch fork would be to be lubricated. I got the car back, thinking all had been taken care of, but noticed next day that it was still squeaking. I went back there for them to tell me. 'oh yeah, we can't lubricate unless we pull off your tranny.' I would have to leave the car there all day and so forth and so forth.
I thought it would have been a simple solution but i am concerned now about them pulling off the tranny and therefore maybe causing some other issues now or later.
I don't hear the squeak when driving usually only when stopped with window open and pressing the clutch.