Golf/GTI VI :: 2009 - Cold Start Misfire At 900 RPM And Flashing CEL
Jul 23, 2012
I have a 2009 VW GTI 6spd (42k miles) that has been misfiring at idle for about a month now. I can feel the engine shaking and see the CEL flashing at 900 RPM and eventually an EPC light comes on and makes the car run very sluggish. The EPC light turns off if the i turn the car off and back on. The car runs fine and without any misfires after start up which has me stumpted as to what it could be.
I've taken it to San Tan VW in Gilbert, AZ 3 times.
1st time they said it needed a 40k mile service to correct the misfire which included oil change, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, fuel injector clearner and a tire rotation They said spark plugs was causing the misifre so i replaced the plugs but the misfire was still there.
2nd time they said the injectors have carbon build up and recommended to run 2-3 bottles of fuel injector cleaner + octane booster per tank for about 2 tanks and that will fix the issue. That didnt work either.
3rd visit they came to the conclusion that it had massive amounts of carbon and needed a "walnut blast". They recommended to look else where for cheaper labor rates on the blast.
Also, need to understand why the car only misfires at 900 RPM if there is carbon deposits at all times.
View 16 Replies
Advertisement
Couple months ago I noticed that my car was experiencing rough idle, stuttering exhaust note during cold start. RPM is very stable!
Forward 4-5 months to last week, starting to notice vibration and it seems like the situation has gotten worse. The car returns to normal after 1 minute or so depending on how long it has been sitting there for. For example, If I park there for 30 minutes and try to start the car, I can feel a little vibration for up to 10 seconds. If it was parked for overnight, then the problem lasts up to one minute and then clears out. Now it's throwing a P0302 error which is cylinder 2 misfiring.
It's really like magic, the car would idle pretty rough and suddenly clears out.
I put in 4 brand new ignition coils and plugs, all OEM stuff and still hasn't worked.
This problems started during the winter time and I can clearly notice it's gotten worse and finally last week it threw the misfiring code.
I feel like something is failing or building up slowly. My car is a 2009 GTI TSI which has the same engine as the MK6 GTI.
View 15 Replies
My 2010 gti has a p30030 misfire cylinder 3 only on cold starts. Swapped plugs and coil packs, still only on 3. Took a look inside every cylinder and found that there was some oil in the cylinder only cylinder 3. So much blow by that it kind of collected in the cylinder? Carbon cleaning needed?
View 7 Replies
Just dug out my 2004 2.0 Jetta after sitting buried for 4 months. You can see a corner of the wheel there lol, its been a LONG winter. It is my car but my brother normally drives it, and while he is away at uni it just sits.
Anyways, dug it out to start it. Started right up, however after a bit the MIL began flashing. It was running a little rough. Took out my code reader and engine misfire cylinder 4 came up. The rpms are varying by 75~100 every few seconds, however nothing rough. It seemed to rev fine.
Before I put it away I got my brother to put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel. He now tells me that he put some in the oil too since it said "oil stabilizer" as well. It was a seafoam type brand... Not impressed with him there.
My question is could this just be the car waking up? Should I let it run for an hour or two to see if things work out?
View 7 Replies
Just bought a 2011 GTI certified Preowned with 12k miles. drives perfect the first week I have it doesnt make a noise, like a brand new car.
I get in the car about an hour ago to go get my daughter some tylenol and when pulling out I feel the car almost like Die and then the CEL starts flashing and the car starts smoking horrible. no power at all so I limped back the 500 ft to my parking spot.
I am new to MKVI but had a MKV GLI previously. my guess would be coil packs but wasnt sure about the horrible smoking.
View 15 Replies
I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t 6speed, I recently bought it from a person(my first VW ever) so just trying to fix some things on it, One thing that I'm stuck at is My CEL, it keeps flashing the code P0501 and some random misfire on my cylinders, I have reset it and they keep coming back.
when I put about 10-15% throttle it revs up fine, no misfire or hesitation until the fuel gets cut off around 5500, which is 1k below factory red line, does not hit a thing like the rev limiter where it pegs off the top multiple times just fuel cuts off.
If i put anything above the said pressure the car then begins to misfire and lots of hesitation and that's what causes those codes to go off.
I've been reading many things pointing towards the engine speed sensor or the wiring. Occasionally my fuel/temp gauge quit working but I believe that is a separate issue all together.
So really trying to narrow down what is actually causing my engine to hesitate at low rpm.
Also i might note when I'm in neutral I can go wide open throttle and the car revs fine until the cutoff and only does the bog down when it's under full load. It sorta feels like the possible misfire is due to bad air/fuel but really do not know.
View 7 Replies
Bought a 2006 (later production) with 25,000 miles over the weekend. Couldn't pass up the price and the warranty (1 year left + CPO). Picked up the car Saturday at noon..... had to drive to DC for business and the CEL came on when I turned on the car this morning. I researched at lunch that it could be a cold start misfire but I am already pretty heated about this. When I get home tonight I am going to plug it in to my OBDII scanner and see what I can pull. If it is something bad.... I am giving it back to the dealership.
View 24 Replies
The last couple of times that I've started my W12 after sitting over night or longer I've noticed a misfire for 10-20 seconds and then it cleans up. Today the engine icon illuminated and after returning home I ran a VAG-COM scan which revealed these DTC's. There are 7 found faults at address 11.
My question is this- What exactly is causing this misfire issue? I'm assuming there is a faulty piece under the hood begging for attention but I don't know which item it is.
Everything else seems to be performing as it should but I see a few other faults showing up. Are any of those faults anything that needs looking into?
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.6
Data version: 20121223
Chassis Type: 3D - VW Phaeton
View 5 Replies
Ok after finding out I had a bad battery @ Toyota shop they also say the scan is reading an exhaust leak ( I could hear that one ) they also say there is a misfire on cold starts should I worry and what could it be or is it a misread from the other two ?
View 4 Replies
I get a cold start ignition miss on cyl #2, then goes away (with a little revving), car then runs 100%. No problems during hot re-start. 2005 1.8T AWM. I replaced all four plugs (NGK OEM), all four coils (OEM latest rev), Coolant temp sensor (temp gauge was flaky). No other codes other than Cyl#2 miss and Random Cyl miss. Could I have a leaking (fuel dribbles out) injector on Cyl #2, causing a too-rich misfire when the car is cold started??
View 6 Replies
2001 V6 Passat with 125k miles throwing a P0430 code.
Having trouble on cold starts, takes about 10 minutes to finally get it to turn over. When it does the idle is extremely rough. For the first 1/4 mile the car bucks, stutters, and misfires. After that it runs fine and starts fine when already warm. I am noticing slightly decreased gas mileage but nothing major.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced 2 months ago, but were leaking oil for at least a year before I could afford to have them replaced. I am still noticing some oil leakage, however not as much as before. I have had both O2 sensors replaced twice in the past 5 years. Timing belt was replaced at 98k. What might be causing the starting issues?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T. When I start it up in the morning I hear a loud obnoxious noise like a vacuum leak from the engine compartment. It lasts for about 1.5 minutes then runs normally. After about a minute it starts up again and only last for about 7 seconds...ish. When I drive it afterwards, less that a half block or so, the CEL light goes on after 1 beep. Also, at that time I get a messages from the instrument panel that says "Emissions Workshop 1". I've read that it could be a simple damaged vacuum hose to the secondary air pump. Definitely a huge price difference to repair.
This morning is was colder outside than usual and the dash kept beeping and flashing the "Emissions Workshop 1" code intermittently.
View 1 Replies
Just bought my 2004 Jetta GLS from a dealership last week. 2.0 Engine. Has 140K miles on it. 2 hour drive from the dealership to home was cold and foggy but it ran fine. In town stop and go traffic in foggy conditions since last Thursday and it has run fine. Got a downpour this morning and all of a sudden it is running choppy and the CEL is flashing at me.
I have a 96 MK3 as well that would run badly in the rain until I changed out the Electronic Coil. Got so I would carry spares with me.
Is it the same fix for the MK4 2.0? I've also read about using epoxy or JB Weld to coat the coils and keep the water out. Does that work for the MK4 Ignition coil?
View 6 Replies
My 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
View 6 Replies
1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
Having a rough idle on a cold start. After some research and closer inspection of the vehicle, I'm quite certain I have at least one leaking injector that is flooding a cylinder and causing the car to misfire on a cold start. I'm also not at the gas mileage I should be at.
So I'm wondering, is fuel injector replacement as straightforward of a job as it looks? Any major issues I could run into in doing a replacement?
I'm planning on replacing all six injectors (I can get them for $50 each buying online with a discount code), but given that the vehicle is so old am I better off just replacing the faulty ones? I'm assuming pulling the spark plugs and seeing which cylinder is wet will tell me which I need to replace.
And one more question: Is there a way to depressurize the fuel system when I park the car for the night, thus preventing fuel (or most of it) from leaking into the engine until I get this fixed? I've read that just unscrewing the gas cap can depressurize the system.
View 14 Replies
I just got an oil change, and my maintenance light is flashing when I start up. It has about 36 thousand miles on it. I don't know when the previous oil change was before the one I got two weeks ago.I have read about resetting the maintenance light, but this is my first car and I have only had it for about 8 months, so I don't want to ignore a potential issue here.
View 4 Replies
I have a major issue the wife 09 camry won't crank nor start. It all happened after i touched the alternator and heat shield with a rachet . She was complaining about her battery light coming on and flashing so I goes out to see and noticed the ark coming from the alternator so i reached down to touch the wire while the car running and hit both the heat shield and alternator together sparks jumped off of course . I shut the running car off then tightrb up the alternator loose bolt. When I tried to restart the car it wouldn't turn over. I checked most of the fuses and now I'm lost and stuck....
View 2 Replies
Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
View 1 Replies
Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
View 8 Replies
My R ran just fine two days ago. I went out to start it this morning and I get all crank. No turn over not even a pop. Now, it is 3 degrees outside right now. I've started my car many times in the cold with no issue. Weird thing is all of the lights on the gauge cluster all flash at the same time. I have a code for a secondary o2 but that obviously is not the case. And yes the fuel pump did prime when I opened the door.
View 7 Replies
My Chevy Cobalt will not start when it is cold (when water freezes)...but only sometimes. When you go to start the engine, it will initially turn over but does not ignite. Then, the second time if you turn the key normally no sound will emit. However, if you put the key in and only turn to get the lights on the dash to come on and THEN turn the key, it will turn over, but no dice. This past time a code "engine pwr reduced" came up, but that doesn't always happen. When you wait four hours or more, it will start like normal accompanied by the check engine light. The check engine light goes off the second time you start it after the non-start.
I have taken it to a mechanic and they have not been able to reproduce the problem, even when it was cold enough to theoretically have happened. He said it might be an issue with the body module which explains why the ignition switch code comes up when you run it through a computer, but since this is such an expensive fix he said he can't recommend I get it done until we know for sure. So there is a pattern, this happens about every 2 months and then the issue clears up for a while.
What is going on??? Will there ever be a way to tell what is wrong (and fix it) without a mechanic reproducing the issue?
View 2 Replies
