Gmc - Sierra :: 2003 - No Cranks Or Clicks / Just Complete Silence
Apr 10, 2013
I own a 2003 Sierra 1500 SLT Extended (4-Door) Cab which I bought brand new. It currently has 120k+/- miles on it, but the problem I'm about to describe started about 5 years ago. Here's the issue: Whenever I first attempt to start my truck, I know the odds are 50/50 that it will actually start. When I turn the key, it will either crank right up like it's brand new or it will do nothing at all--no cranks, no clicks, just complete silence. When the weather is colder, the chances it will start are slightly better.
Those chances go downhill as the weather improves--the frequency of "non-starts" increases. I have had a whole lot of mechanics--both physical and virtual--try to diagnose this problem. I even left my truck at a GMC dealership for 4 days so they could replicate the problem and diagnose it. Unfortunately, my truck started on every attempt they made which was 2 or 3 times per day. The only hint of where the problem my lie came from an automotive electronics technician. He said he can't be sure unless he replicates the scenario, but he said the factory installed alarm system is most likely the cause.
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My truck just started to do this today. when i start, the clock and shifter panel blink/flash for about 20 sec. it also clicks when its flashing.....it makes the same sound as the turn signal. Is it a fuse? maybe a switch?
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95 GMC Sierra 1500. My truck cranks, but it won't start. If I push on the gas it delivers fuel and kind of starts, but it dies out immediately. I considered it to be a fuel pump issue at first, but I had my fuel pump replaced about a year ago so I do not think that is the problem, but I am not sure what else it could be. I am looking for some troubleshooting steps so I can narrow down the issue and get my hands dirty working on my truck.
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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Every morning on the way to work, I get the freeze warning alert and the blinking snowflake at 39 degrees. Is there any way to silence the audio on this? It's the same tone you get with low fuel, seat belt or other warnings. I know it's cold out and really find this audio alert annoying.
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Looking for info on success in silencing their Prius C pedestrian warning system? If so, how? I find it annoying, sounds like something is wrong with my radio. I may be amongst the first to attempt to quiet it.
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This happened about a year ago when I quickly started and shut it right off. I googled something and I found a sequence, procedure. Something about open door open switch wait etc, it worked started right up. Now I been stuck for 2 days looking and can't find it.All I have is regular metal key. 1997 f150....
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I have a 2003 accent 1.6L ... It's been like this for a while, but when filling up, it clicks and stop filling like if it was full, but it is not. I can maybe get 0,30$ worth of gas in before it clicks. Then I have to wait a couple of seconds, and do it again.
I have read that it might be the charcoal filter that is clogged. Is there any way to fix this? from what I have read this filter is inside the gas tank.
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One channel (FM 90.3) delivers perfect sound for two seconds, then complete silence for a half sec. then two more seconds of perfect reception. No fade, no static, just on and off regular as a clock. This station broadcasts on two other frequencies which are behaving and 90.3 comes in fine on my other vehicle.
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My AC has been acting up. It blows real cold most of the time, but every now and then the clutch kicks out (even at highway speeds), and it blows warm. If I accelerate, the clutch engages, and it blows cold again. If I decelerate, it stays disengaged. At idle, it will do the same, sometimes cold, sometimes no clutch. I added a can of 134 last week, didn't make a difference. I hooked up the manifold gauges today, and the low side was 45psi, the high side was 160psi. I let a little freon out of the system until the low side read 35psi, but the high side went down to 150psi. If I'm correct, the low side should be between 30 - 40, the high side 225 - 250? Why I'm seeing 35 and 150???
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I recently bought a 2014 Prius v, and I love most things about it, but so far I absolutely despise the way the audio system interacts with my iPhone 4S.
-If I plug the phone into the USB to charge it, the phone speakers will get silenced, and all audio will get sent to the car speakers. This happens even if the car speakers are off, and in that case the phone just goes totally silent. This would not be such a big deal except...
-The car often decides that I am on a call, when I am not on a call, and I am depending on the phone for Google Maps turn by turn voice directions. The screen on the car shows me as being in a call and silences the phone's audio. Occasionally it will play a brief bit of audio that sounds like it was recorded from within the car. If I push the button to hang up on the call nothing happens, and I just have to find my way to my destination without any directions. Or if I have enough battery I can disconnect the USB cable and get there using voice directions played on the phone speaker.
-The same issue sometimes interrupts audio playback when streaming audio from the phone.
-If I answer a call while I have audio playing, the audio keeps playing, and there's no apparent way to turn it off using the car controls. The car's next song and previous song buttons quit working too, so I'm at the mercy of whatever was on the playlist.
-I have to turn the volume up incredibly high to hear people who call me. When I end the call, the car suddenly starts playing a song from my iTunes music at deafening volume, even if I was not playing music before the call started.
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I have a 2003 Taurus wagon (a real babe magnet) that has 63K on it. On random occasions recently, I turn the key to start it and there is dead silence--no groans, no clicks, nada. This happened for the second time last week at a tire shop, and the technician had me hold the key in the start position while he tapped the starter with a metal rod, which worked miraculously. He showed me where the starter was and how to perform this miracle. Unfortunately it is a two-person job, and I was stranded the next evening alone at my house, and missed work the next day. Later that day it started right up like nothing had happened.
It stranded me again two days later, and nice lady in the parking lot held the key in start position while I used my cane to tap the starter as I had been shown. I took it to the dealer and explained the problem and my temporary solution, hoping they would know from this exactly how to fix it. After four days, they said they could not duplicate the problem, that the car started right up every time they tried it. Meanwhile the car I had borrowed from a friend broke down in a busy intersection, stranding me again for a short while. I went back to the dealer and brought the Ford home, figuring there isn't much to do but play the odds....Logic suggests that because tapping the starter seems to get it to go, that the problem must be in the starter. Yet the guys at the dealership wouldn't touch anything until the car refused to start for them. Where does one go (or in this case, possibly not go) from here?
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My car wouldn't start earlier this week. After jumping it, it stalled out at the first stop sign. I got a new battery and it started great but it still stalled out while idling and low rpms. I gave it a tune up in hopes that it was a bad spark plug or wiring issue. It is running better but it still gets really choppy at stops or idling at a light and it still wants to or has stalled. I had disconnected the negative charge from the battery to check if it was an alternator issue but it ran fine without the battery.
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I replaced my fuel filter on my 2003 2.4L toyota tacoma 2wd. 65k miles. At the same time I checked the valves. No valve adjustment needed. Then i started hearing 4 to 6 rapid metallic clicks from the engine compartment when I start the engine cold. Clicking lasts 1 to 2 seconds. Sometimes happens when engine warm. This fuel filter is not original equipment.
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I have 2003 Saturn Ion that will not start. I did test on the starter and battery and everything work fine. When I turn the key to start, the starter relay clicks alright but there is no power going through the starter trigger wire to engage the starter; I have checked the starter trigger wire, all the fuses, and all the relays, but there is no power in the trigger wire. Why there is no power in the starter trigger wire when the key is turned to start to engage the starter so that the car will start.
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On my 97, just had a new engine installed. Suddenly the Lo presser AC switch died. Now the Start Solenoid (I think) just clicks sometimes. Is this Solenoid on the Firewall the Start Solenoid?
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I have an 03 Sierra Half Ton when the engine is warm it runs fine but at cold start, half the time it doesn't have the fuel pressure to start, i have to turn the key a couple times to build it up. Idk if the fuel pump is weak for if it would be more the regulator. I started having this problem after i replaced the fuel pump. The fuel pressure gauge shows 50-55 lbs, but every now and then when its cold it will only jump to around 5 lbs (but this is only when the engine is cold... why?) What should i go after first? Regulator, new pump, Replace the fuel filter again?
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On my class C motor home, 1999 with V10 engine when I turn the ignition key to the start position I get absolute silence, when I release the key and turn it to the start position again it always starts. I have fitted a new starter motor, new solenoid and new battery but still the problem persists. I'm scared that one time it will not crank over on the second attempt.
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Just got a 03 Used Santa Fe 2 weeks ago... 79,000 miles
1. Car "lurches" when at a complete stop w brake fully applied out of no where, so strong that I could easily rear end someone...
2. told dealership car was pulling to right, they said (after some teeth pulling) that a ball joint was replaced and Santa Fe's don't need alignments but in MA this is part of state inspection and considered a safety issue, needless to say, they say I have to pay for it...
3. Rear brakes seem to be hanging up...
All I want is the issues fix.
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I have a 2003 GMC Sierra with 146,000 miles. Yesterday morning when I lowered the driver side window, I heard a loud pop. After which the window would not go up when I pulled on the up button. However, when I pushed the DOWN button the window went back up. This was to me a good thing. It stayed up until this morning when while trying the passenger window I accidentally touched the driver side switch It dropped a little then slowly went down about a half inch as I drove. Luckily when I pressed the down button it went back up again. I've Benn told it is the window regulator.
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So I 2003 6.0 F350 that is a Dually. Been sitting in my yard for about two years now. I turn the key it just clicks and it doesn't crank. The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the whit The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the wire on the engine bay. It cranked for a while and that started ran rough. Then it just died. I did not start again. I did this during winter so the engine have time to cool off it was about below freezing. Done this multiple times and drove up and down in my backyard but not on the road. What could be wrong with it. Either way I put in diesel 911 and more fuel but and I change the filters with Motorcraft OEM filters. Sure that the caps were right.
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