Gmc - Sierra :: 2000 - Rear Differential Seemed To Seize Up While Driving
Mar 30, 2015
2000 GMC Sierra, just over 200k, 4.8L, 4WD. Son was driving and the rear differential seemed to sieze up. Internal casing was destroyed, so got a replacement. Matched the size using the code inside the glove box (something similar to GT4 in both vehicles - it matched exactly). Attached video shows the sound that is coming from the rear of the truck. This noise happens on deceleration. Can drive at least 20MPH and let off the gas. Truck begins shaking at 45MPH. There is no feeling of loss of power or anything negative besides the sound on deceleration.
Important note, this sound was present before we changed the differential guts, and is absent when in 4WD. We only hear the sound when the truck is in 2WD.
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I have a 1999 GMC Sierra. The rear differential cover was leaking on me for past couple of months, but I was putting it off. FInally this weekend my truck starting making an airplane sound that seemed to be coming from the rear. The sound happened on acceleration only, and increased in amplitude and frequency as the speed increased and as I pressed the gas more. If I let go of the gas, or let it cruise, then the sound would sputter once or twice, and go away. It would resume if I pressed on the gas again.
Since the rear differential cover was leaking, I thought I burned out the gears. When I changed the cover, the gears appeared to be fine. The lubricant was super low, and did smell burned out though. I refilled the fluid and put a new cover on. This did not solve my noise problem though.
Is it still the rear differential that is making the noise? Is it something else? How hard is it, and how involved is it to replace the rear differential? Can I replace its components, and which ones?
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2001 toyota sequoia had oil changed but the oil leak out within 1/2 a mile. Engine automatically shut off. Oil was refilled but when we tried starting it, it would not run. The engine would crank over and over but would not get to the point where it would run or start. Ive been told there may be a safety shut off unit that activates when there is very low oil or no oil at all. What may have actually happened? Can a motor seize within a few minutes of driving @ 40 mph?
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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I just started having a problem with my 4wd.
When I push the button to select anything other than 2 hi, the indicator light for the selected range will flash for about 30 sec and then it reverts back to a steady light on the 2 hi button.
I have already replaced the pushbutton unit and nothing changed there.
How can I troubleshoot it from this point?
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1999 GMC Sierra - 2wd
Truck belongs to a co-workers son so I might not have all the info I need. Just within the last couple of days - he's driving at night and the headlights cut off. Pulls over and waits a bit - restarts - lights work for 1/2-1 mile then cut off again. He has changed the headlight relay switch.
No DRL but does have automatic headlights. First noted this Tuesday night and the weather since Tuesday has been either rainy or foggy. He had higher intensity "blue" bulbs installed but has swapped them to regular bulbs and the problem continues.
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As the title says, the 2001GMC Sierra 2500 truck has been acting up lately. This usually happens when the truck is in motion, doing about 40 mph or so. It will quit, i have to pull over to the side of the road. And it usually starts right back up. This has been going on ever since I had the fuel pump replaced about 3 months ago or so. It was doing it once every two weeks, then once a week, then once every other day. Then it stranded me at the store before xmas. Right off I thought it is the fuel pump being intermittent, and just getting worse. I am not so sure though.
My mechanic will warranty it, but would rather not have to if its not the problem. He would rather have the truck die and stay dead, and test out things from there. There in lies the problem. The pump works, I can hear it power up, and if the truck stalls, it starts right back up. One more thing. If it does not start immediately, and I don't drain the battery, it will start in an hour or less. It will not just stop working for an extended period of time. There is no check engine light on btw. No codes come up while its on the computer. I don't drive it except in the driveway to plow, for fear of having to have it towed. It works though as i have a really long driveway.
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I recently started having problems with my 98 GMC Sierra c1500. I'll be driving and all the sudden it will jerk as if it's shifted from 5th to 1st gear, but the revs don't go up, they drop to about 600 like it is about to die and then it go back to normal revs. It only does this while I'm on the gas and very rarely at idle. I don't know if it could be the transmission or something is blocking fuel from the engine.
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So I have the dreaded rear diff whine, which started about a month (1000 miles) ago. I've read a bunch of the past posts, but still can't find a solution other than a) live with it, or b) spend $3500 for a whole new diff. (95k miles - no warranty) It seems the general consensus is that the problem stems from a loosened pinion nut. Is there no way to just tighten the nut? Or if I do will the whine continue because the gears are now worn? BTW I just had all the diff and tranny fluids changed. Made no difference.
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It's a 2000 . She just started seeing the gauges randomly swing all the way over, not sure which way . They stay that way until she starts it again and it's all fine and dandy once more. I'd go into more detail but haven't got them since it's not my truck and this is the first I have heard of it
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This truck has 180km on it and runs fine except as of lately i have developed a surge while at constant speed. When i step on the gas it does not seem to happen.....it only happens when I reach a constant speed. The odd time it will surge at idle and the engine will rev up and down on its own also. When at highway speed it seems to not do this. The truck never dies completely....just surges slightly.
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At about 50mph, start to get a whine/whistle from right rear (sounds kind of like a jet engine). Noise gets higher/lower as speed increases/decreases. Just started 1-2 weeks ago, 145k miles. Intermittent, but 85-90% of the time. 2001 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4x4 ....
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Any troubleshooting tips on determining where the noise is coming from at the rear of the car? There is a pretty audible hum at 55 mph coming from the rear of the car and I am not sure if its the balancer or the diff. I'm reading horror stories of improperly serviced rear diffs causing the diff to fail and starting to freak out.
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My 2007 3.6L 4Motion wagon was in for the 40k service. Everything was fine with the service, but they noticed that there was a small leak in the rear differential.
It's covered under warranty, but the troubling thing is that they can't figure out how to stop the leak. They are calling VW tech.
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Today, whilst changing to my winter tires, I noticed that with just the right rear wheel in the air, it was possible to freely spin it (all 3 other wheels firmly on the ground). Gear was in Park, engine cut
As I understand, the rear axle has an open diff, so the center diff has to spin too. Is this possible for a (Torsen) center diff?
I experience quite annoying speed related vibrations, so was wondering whether this might be an issue.
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It was brought to my attention that staggered wheels Can blow out the rear dif? Is this common? I currently have 18x8 and 18x9 rear summer wheels and I haven't seen any issues occur yet.
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Some of you may have seen my recent post about raising the X. Its about 5" higher in the rear. Prior to raising the X, I had a vibration at around 65 to 70 mph. It felt like a tire was out of balance. Go a steady slower speed or a steady faster speed and it would go away.
Since raising the X, the vibration is gone, which I thought was cool. But now I have a "grind" type noise coming from the rear. I have to do all the testing on the freeway. There are no issues, no noises at regular street speeds.
On the freeway, when accelerating fairly hard up a hill from say 65 to 80, I can hear sort of a rumbly, grindy noise from the rear. Its not really loud but I can hear and feel it throughout the cab. If I coast at around 70-75 mph (just keep the speed the same) on flat ground, I can hear it come and go when the X is truly coasting for a few seconds. If I get up to say 85 and let off the gas, I can hear it as I decelerate until I get down to around 65.
This all only happens between say 75 and 90. I get no noise below 65-ish.
I had the drive shaft out over the weekend. The u-joints had no play and were free moving. I did feel the smallest play in the slip yoke, so I gave it a good greasing. That didn't change anything.
I'm guessing the problem is in the differential somewhere. I have not pulled the cover off yet to check the fluid.
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I have a 1 ton 2000 GMC sierra (old body style 99') 7.4 liter V-8 Gasser with the Allison 1000 tranny, 4x4. the engine will not crank over..
Battery was dead so I charged it, battery was holding 9v, so i hooked up jumper cables to my new car, gauge showed 12v, so I tried to start the truck.. the fuel pump, antilock brake system, and gauges came on.. as well as the "check engine light", "service engine soon", and battery light... I ensured the trans was in park, even tried neutral.. no crank.
I hooked up the mini scanner tool I have, and got no codes.. cleared the ECU/ECM anyways.. no crank.
I also tried swapping out my starter relay with the A/C relay, and pulling fuses to the ECU/ECM for 20 seconds to clear any issues/codes.. no crank
My next option is to clean the battery cables & terminals (or replace the cables), and replace the battery... the battery is only 2 years old.. due for replacement, but I'm kinda broke right now. The battery is one of those stupid side terminal ones with poor connections to begin with.. is there a top post terminal battery I can get to replace this POC? or will the posts hit the hood?
This is a plow truck, single battery setup (at the moment).. and the fisher 8' plow when running the hydraulic pump severly drains the battery.. lights dim severely, been wondering about a higher rated alternator (factory is rated at 120-140amps), larger power cables... etc.. dual battery system...
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2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
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