Gmc - Sierra :: 1992 - Sputtering And Backfiring?
Dec 4, 2014
I have a 92 gmc with a standard transmission that is backfiring and sputtering after it has been running for a while. I have noticed that on longer trips, 30+ miles, the truck backfires when i go to accelerate on the highway. Also, after it has been running a while, I will stop at a light, When I go to accelerate, It backfires and tries to stall but wont. I have to turn the key off and wait for the truck to shut off.
Once it shuts off, I will restart it and then it runs normal till the next light.. I have replaced the plugs recently, thinking that it was a misfire problem. All the plugs looked normal. None were dirtier than the rest. It only does this after it has been running for a long distance. If it is cold, it does not have a problem. I have also tried seafoam in the tank and direct into the carb. I am at a loss? the temp gauge never gets hot?
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Im looking to upgrade my radio and speaker system in my car but I do not want to lose my steering wheel controls.
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I have a 2006 Saab 97x. While the car is not very common, the GM 5.3L V8 in it, is. It runs perfectly fine under normal driving conditions but for the past several months it has been running like a Slaab instead of a Saab. It has been backfiring, sputtering and has had loss of power issues but only during hard acceleration.When my check engine light came on at 50k, the dealership changed all 8 iridium plugs and when it happened again at 75k, only one was replaced. Aren't these supposed to be 100k plugs? One of the exhaust manifolds has been replaced due to a leak and the other one has a leak now. Fortunately, all of the previous repairs have been covered by my warranty. Unfortunately, my warranty has run out and the other manifold is no longer covered and seemingly neither is this problem. Most recently, my new mechanic used some fuel injector cleaner something or other to no avail. I tow a 5000# camper and can't have these issues when summer comes. Is it the plugs, manifold, engine, something else?
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I have a 1992 GMC step side, short bed, 350 engine, Sierra, auto trans, factory air, factory exhaust, power steering.......
Three years ago the fuel pump went out. I have to work alone so I lowered the tank after draining and went through a lot of agony with floor jacks, supports, etc. but finally got the job done in 3 days.
The replacement was a Bosch fuel pump.
It went out today while I was at Sams stores. I got a pull home and it is in my driveway.
It started up once I got it home, but that is what it did the last time it went out, 3 years ago.
Question...should I check the ground first to make sure it is not getting intermittant ground or just do the job with a new pump?
Also, can I do this job by raising or sliding the bed after I unbolt it? I have heard war stories but no actual person that has done it.
Also, when moving the bed either up or sliding it back, isn't there a concern about wires that go to the tail lights?
I cannot afford the 500 dollar shop fee to have it towed and fixed.
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I have a 92 and the transmission has started acting up. When I put it in gear it sits for about 5 to 10 seconds before engaging mainly Drive and overdrive sometimes reverse. it shifts fine when I am driving. A shop told me the front pump is going out. Would it be worth it to flush and put some Lucas fluid in it. I am trying to advoid spending hundreds having the tranny rebuilt or replaced.
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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A friend of mine has had this 2000 Sierra since new. It has just over 100K and never had any cooling issues before. Last week when it was about 10 below zero she drove it home and it overheated and pumped a couple quarts of antifreeze overboard.
She refilled it the next day and it was fine but got it looked at by a local independent mechanic. I had told her that it was likely a sticky thermostat and it ought to be changed out anyways due to its age. The mechanic thought I was wrong and that she had driven it off to quickly in the super cold weather.
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My timing belt went out a few months ago and it damaged the heads so I've basically rebuilt the entire top end of the engine but now that I've got it back together it is backfiring when I give it gas. It idles just fine...no misses...just backfiring and has very little power. I have found what looks like honey comb material on the ground under the tail pipe. Am I looking at a bad converter or something else?
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So, for the past year or so, my R backfires on cold starts. I have had the MAF, Fuel pump, door sensor, and coil packs replaced. Still no progress. Now that it is starting to cool down here in CO, this is happening much more often.
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I just been told my volvo 850 estate is backfiring and running on 4 cylinders instead of 5. I have been told he will have to run diagnostics and go from there.
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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Just got a 1990 k1500 with the 4.3 v6 and 5 speed and it backfires. A buddy told me it was shooting flames out of my exhaust. What does that mean?
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So my car has 67k on it, is babied and taken care of. She runs good however at idle, she seems to put out small little backfires. I just noticed this a little while ago. Sitting in the car I can feel when this happens, it's like a small quick sputter but I'm getting no noises from the engine when these fluctuations happen. The exhaust from almost up by the DP back to the tailpipe will move with the sputter if that makes sense. Seems like it's a slight misfire but im not really sure what it could be. runs strong and the temp always reads normal and I am getting no CEL.
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Recently purchased 2012 Nissan Murano 6 cylinder. FWD. Upon acceleration, I hear what sounds like the car is backfiring. Does not happen all the time but seems prevalent upon quick start. The accelerator pedal is very sensitive, and I need to consciously think about light pressure on the pedal. Of course, taking it to the dealership didn't work, because I could not recreate the problem. It's still happening.
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I have a vehicle that came in on the hook its an 01 exploder4.0 sohc no start.. when cranking it will back fire through intake. no dtc's however its also showing all monitors not set?? dead battery erasing keep alive memory I don't know. Here's what i do know apparently it had gotten partial tune up all left side plugs and wires changed. All right side plugs and number 3 wire factory. I have plenty of fuel pressure. It appears that all cylinders have 150 psi for compression.
I changed all plugs and spark tester is showing there is spark at the plug, (yes at all) just cranks and cranks and then back fires. I also have removed front ho2s to rule out blocked cats, wires are not crossed. I have an rpm signal which should have been evident when I had spark and injector pulse. have not changed the wires nor the coil which is a 6 pack coil. (Boss refuses to get them for me since i have spark )even though I told him there was some arcing.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee that when you start and put in drive, it will feeling like it is stalling and sometimes backfire. It does this until I step on the gas and go fast for a couple of seconds. After that it is fine until I start again alter in the day. There were no codes when the garage checked.
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I have a 2002 subaru forester that will stutter and backfire without throwing a code, but not all the time. i have had it hooked up to a computer to check the O2 sensors and they are fine, it has a new Throttle position sensor, knock sensor, plugs, and catalytic converters (all put on in the last month). I have called a dealership and they have not heard of this happening, so this is my last resort.
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My Porsche is backfiring & popping when it has heated up while driving. What could this be? I took it to a Porsche repair shop where the guy changed the Perma-Tune Box and replaced the coil and charge me over $1400.00 and the car is still doing the same thing. Could this be a tune up problem?
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From the title post above, you can see that I have multiple issues with the car, or just maybe one causing all the symptoms. The initial problem is this.When the car starts, it starts up fine and has normal power. After driving for a few minutes, the car starts exhibiting the following symptoms.
1. If I step on the gas pedal hard and hold it, it sounds as if the car is drowning, the car loses power, then may back fire, then instantly, it regains power and accelerates. This is by keeping the pedal down.
2. If I feather the pedal, it doesn't lose power and accelerates decently but as soon as I begin to go up hill, it bogs down and does the drowning noise again.
3. I created a video showing this issue for my friend who typically familiar with these things. Here is the link ; [URL] .... In the video, the car is idling fine but when I throttle it, it begins to drown, then just picks up right away for no apparent reason.
4. Just two days ago, the car will not start after it's been running for a while. If I let it sit, it starts up again.
-Could my catalytic converter be bad and therefore it somehow creates back pressure after the car warms up?
-Would it be a fuel injection problem? I put fuel injection cleaner in the tank and it seemed to run a little better.
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1987 BMW 535is ... I first noticed the issue after getting gas with the tank nearly empty. Car lost power under acceleration, bucked, stalled, etc. After it idled a while, I was able to get it home. Fiddled with it off and on for months to no avail. Because it sat for periods of time, I would need to jump it. On those occasions, it idled perfectly and ran like a champ. Upon restart, the poor running conditions returned.
I finally gave up and took it to a BMW shop, which replaced the mass air flow meter, plugs and rotor. It ran like new for a few months, but the bogging problem returned.
Essentially, it acts as if the engine is starved of gas, bucking and surging, backfiring sometimes. It does seem to run better on a full tank, but that isn't always consistent. It also seems sometimes to improve once the engine is warm - on occasion you can feel the transmission grab hold upon letting up on the gas and the problem totally disappears. But not even that is consistent, and lately it starts and idles ok but then starts coughing and shuddering unless you hit the throttle.
I have suspected a weird electrical glitch, but grounds are fine and everything else checks out. Usual switches and sensors appear fine. While it had been running very rich before the MAF replacement, computer now shows 21 MPG, which is very high for this car and certainly doesn't suggest rich running. Have not had the fuel pump/filter checked, but it seems to be getting gas, compression is good and the BMW shop did not suspect a fuel delivery issue.
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2005 v6 silverado, not starting, backfiring some, this happened all of a sudden, I do have spark, good clean distrub cap/rotor, plug wires, since this no start happened today then - new hall effect sensor, and new cank position sensor, new battery, Should I be looking into the fuse system? there is pressure at the fuel line, but do not know how much (don't have a guage) and am confused if this would cause backfiring.It is currently show no error codes for the OBD II
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