Gmc - Savana :: 2012 - Air Conditioning Drops Off While Idling
Jan 7, 2016
We have a sled dog team and purchased a 2012 GMC Savana, pulled out the seats then added wire dog kennels to transport them. This question involves air-conditioning since we don’t want hotdogs. Traveling on the highway during the summer in 90 degree plus weather the air conditioning works fine and cools to 35 degrees plus or minus out the vents (We have a thermometer on a vent). When we stop at a rest stop to potty the dogs we leave the engine running and the air conditioning on to keep them cool.
Almost immediately the air blowing from the vents starts rising to 70 degrees. My 2012 Ford Explorer does not have this issue and holds a steady cool temperature while at idle. Our dealer added dye found a leak and it was repaired so the system is topped off and the problem has persisted. Where to look next such as failed switches or compressor problems and what a dealer needs to do to make a repair. They feel the air conditioning is preforming well.
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I have a 2014 Hyundai SFS 2.4L with about 50,000 miles and love it so far. However, I have a concern, when I am driving on the highway or even back roads the air conditioning cranks real cold. However, when idling at a light there's an obvious temperature difference that is warmer. I have ECO "off" because when ECO was on it completely shut off the air when accelerating or idling. Is this a scroll compressor? The reason I ask is my FORD had a scroll compressor and exhibited the same symptoms and it turned out it was a $35 faulty valve, but convincing numerous shops it was, was the problem. Also, could it be low Freon? If so, does it take R-134A and is it something I can do myself?
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I have an old (fourth generation before 2005) and low performance bmw 316 at its 40 000 km (its been in garage for some time after it's done 19 000, then i bought it, so everything rubbery is problematic), i feel like it burns more fuel then it should considering its performance , since its almost 20 sec. from .naught to 60 , it has a more noticeable engine braking compared to my 2005 passat 1.6 (almost twice as effective), and a higher fuel consumption, when i stop the engine when idling, the rpm needle (or whatever it is, not a native speaker) drops to 0 immediately like in a millisecond or so.. no inertia no nothing, oil and everything is regularly checked up but i think there is something deeper going on.
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Car started idling weird last night. Drops to about 500 then up to 1000, thrn down again. CEL has been on for over a month but has not affected driving. Engine shakes and doesn't sound normal. I was told by mechanic CEL was caused by a vacuum leak, but he didn't have the smoke machine to pinpoint the leak. That was over a month ago and I haven't had the chance to go back. What are the first things I could check for besides the vacuum leak?
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With the cold weather arriving I've recently noticed that when I have the heater on it does fine while I'm going down the road. However when I idle at an intersection the blower still works but the heat drops off.
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I have a 2009 Santa fe 3.3L V6 (live Montreal, Canada), since the past week when I start it up, I've noticed that after 1 minute or so while the it is idling my rpm's drop from 1000 to about 650 for split second and it seems to want to stall. The same thing happens when driving for a a small distance when ever I have to make a stop my Santa fe rpm's drop (split second) so low it seems to want to stall. Could it be related to Throttle Sensor Position?
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I have a 2013 Corolla S. I notice when I let the car idle for like 5-10 minutes the Average mpg readout drops to around 22 mpg(in city while driving it is usually at 25). Why is this?
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Was driving vehicle on highway at 75mph (speed limit) and the engine cut off. Just prior to this event, the vehicle was acting sluggish when stepping on the gas pedal. It took the vehicle from 5-10 seconds to respond to the acceleration requests.
Up until this point, the vehicle would work normally except for the transmission, (we've always had a problem with this from day 1), the GMC mechanics said they even took the trany apart and put it back together and couldn't find any issues. The transmission, when moving from a stopped position will not engage into gear for several seconds (4s - 7s) and when it does, the van pops into gear, jerking the van.
Vehicle: 2004 GMC Savana 1500 passenger Van
Mileage: 105,000
History: has had regular oil changes/tuneups
Primary Issue: Engine shut off while driving at 75mph
Secondary Issue: Tranny pops into gear after delay from stopped position (from park to drive or park to reverse)
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My tachometer hangs out around the 600 RPM spot when I first start my truck, but lately it will end up dropping to zero when idling, and then bounce up to about the 200 RPM point when accelerating. Its not the Cam Positioning Sensor (I had that happen with my 99 7.3) and this truck runs great. I am thinking it could be at the tach.
Question is: Where does the Tachometer signal generate and does the PCM do anything with it before it sends the signal to the Tachometer? The reason for focusing on the Tach is since the engine runs and idles fine, then that tells me the PCM is receiving the correct signal from the engine and making changes accordingly. I read about a 5.4 gas engine with rain issues, but the only issues going on here is extreme cold (tonight, -15). I keep the truck garaged and when I go out, it is for purpose and then return home to a heated garage.
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I have a v6 se 2013, and I just happen to see that there is some water drops inside my right fog light, I change my bulbs like a month ago, is that the reason? And if it is and I take it to the dealer would they avoid my warranty.
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I have an 2012 Hyundai Elantra. I've been having an intermittent issue with startup. When I go to start the car it cranks and just when you'd expect it to start it just drops out. I'm not letting up off the key too early, this happens as I'm still turning the key. All the dash lights stay on. When I try it again it starts right up. I did mention it to the dealer last time it was in and they said they looked it up and discovered the cable to my starter was loose so they tightened it. Clearly that hasn't fixed the problem.
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I noticed since day one that my 2014 PiP radio is more static than my 2006 Prius. I also noticed that when I started moving in ev only, the radio volume level would drop. Well, I never really thought about it why till I got LED headlights. Now, the static is worst due to RF interference from the LED. So, it looks like there were more interference due to the ev electrical system. With the LED headlight, it made it worst. I have put a choke on the leads of the headlight, but it does nothing.
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I haven't see one that is related to this issue.
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I have about 600 miles on my new Camry. When I come to a stop at a stop light it seems when the transmission drops to first gear it drop kinda hard or more like a jerk. Is this normal or not?
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I have noticed this, and thought it strange. I don’t see the charging arrows in the display.
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Having problem with 2016 Accent Sport (or other model) idling rough after smooth driving for about 20 or so minutes? It has started doing this about a month after being purchased. About 700 miles or so on it) When in stick mode it smooths out and purrs like a kitten, but back in automatic mode it idles rough, with Active Eco on and off. I have an appointment to take it in to the dealership 5/7, but I wanted to see what the cause was.
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When I'm idling my car at a stop, I notice a slight vibrating through the car... The vibration could also be felt through the steering wheel.
Not a major issue. Tried pushing car into neutral to see if it made a difference... Nothing.
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My 2012 f250 6.7 has what sounds like a chain spinning when idling when you give it fuel it quiets down.
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Last summer, my air conditioning was blowing hot air. I took it to the mechanic where they added refrigerant. It worked. Last week, it was blowing coolish warm air on the driver side and warm air on the passenger side. I took it to the same mechanic where they added refrigerant. Now, it blows very cold air on the driver’s side and cool air on the passenger’s side. I inquired about a leak, but they said that they didn’t see one, but I could take it back in a couple weeks where they could run a dye to determine whether there really is a leak. They also mentioned that I might need to bring it every year to have refrigerant added.
I read a few articles and have concerns that they would just add refrigerant, (especially a second time) without determining the root cause of the problem. I’m also wary that they would suggest bringing it back every year and at a cost of $110, especially when I read that an unrepaired leak could have an adverse impact on other related components. Prior to reading this I was thinking of adding coolant myself every year for closer to $35. I’m also wondering why the driver’s side is blowing colder air than the passenger’s side and whether there could be a larger issue than just a leak.
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Air Conditioning issues, vents 'hiss' when the A/C is on ... So we just bought an 04 B5.5V TDI and when we were test driving the car, I didn't actually notice this issue since we didn't do extensive driving and I wasn't listening for this problem specifically.
So basically what I found after the purchase is that the a/c is not very strong at all... even full bore and the vents have a hiss, hissing, whine, moan coming from them.
The minimal troubleshooting I have done was just to try to determine, while at idle from inside the car... when the noise was happening. What I have come up with is this.
If the AC switch is off, I can turn the fan on to any speed and the noise will not present itself.
If the AC switch is on, going from fan stopped to speed 1, about 70% of the time the hissing will not present.
If the AC switch is on, going to any of the faster fan speeds (2+) and center vents begin to hiss at me.
Once the hissing is happening, turning the fan speed back 1 will not stop the hissing.
The hissing slows and stops when the fan is turned off or the AC switch is turned off.
The hissing does not sound like a fan rubbing. Its not quite a mechanical sound like a bad bearing or debris hitting the fan.
The hissing sounds a little bit like someone blowing through a straw. However, the fan seems to move up and down the speed range just as expected and the air output seems to match the speed... so its not like the air movement is low.
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On my previous cars (1992 Mercury Tracer and 1995 Taurus) the air conditioning eventually went out. That has me thinking about how to keep it going for as long as possible in my new car (2011 Honda Fit). My theory is that by not putting the temperature on the lowest setting, and not running the fan speed past the 2nd setting, that the system will go longer before needing to be replaced. Am I right?
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