Gmc - Jimmy :: 1997 - Gas Gauge Reading Incorrect And Needle Oscillates While Turning?
Mar 16, 2016
My '97 Jimmy has had an inaccurate gas gauge for several years now. Initially, it would read accurately until approximately 1/4 of the tank of fuel remained. After this point it would read full regardless of how much gas was in the tank. Over time this has progressed so the gauge only reads accurately until approximately 3/4 of the tank of fuel remains and most of the time the gauge reads full. I have simply been refilling every 200 miles during this time but I have forgotten a few times and been stranded so I would like to address it now. The gauge needle also oscillates in time with the turn signal when it is activated which may or may not be related. I am having no fuel supply issues so I don't think there is an issue with the fuel pump but I believe the pump and fuel sender are integrated in my model year so it may be necessary to replace it anyway.
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My '04 gas gauge started moving around, slowly rising from empty with low fuel light on to the correct position, a few days later it would rise to less than the correct reading, and now it's just parked on empty with the low fuel light on constantly.
After reading all the similar complaints, I'm guessing it's the fuel sensor. I've been using the "personal" trip odometer to monitor my miles so I don't run out of fuel. I cycled through the odometer settings and it's showing a mpg reading (which clears when I resent the personal trip odometer) so I'm wondering if it may be the gauge instead of the sender. How it determines how much fuel is consumed in order to calculate the mpg? I would think that if the sensor is not working, it would not be able to calculate mpg. Or does it use another method?
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I have a 1999 GMC Yukon SLE. I've recently noticed that I appear to be running out of gas at the 1/2 tank mark. When I go to fill it, it seems I really do still have 1/2 a tank of gas (so it doesn't seem to be just a bad gauge). As long as I keep the tank above 1/2, everything is well. What might be causing this?
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When I fill my gas tank (in other words, until the pump clicks off on its own) the dashboard gas tank gauge is at only at about 3/4 full. Itdoesn't seem to be the type of needle that shleps its way up after a few minutes. So I continue filling on my own until I have as close to a full tank as I can get without any overspill. What's up with that?
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I just filled up my gas tank and when I turned on my car the gas light turned on and the needle read empty. But before I put gas, the gas light wasn't on yet and. Was at 1/4 of a tank. Maybe I filled it up too much and it'll resolve itself after the gas goes down?
It's a 10.5 if it matters.
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My gas/fuel gauge jumps when I use the turn signals. The flicking is more pronounced when the tank is full. I have changed the sending unit in the gas tank and it still doesn't work correctly
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I have a strange problem, my boost guage needle is jumping like crazy, there is no vacuum leak and the max boost i get is 0.5 bar, when the guage needle is not jumping I get a boost of 1.4 bar. I have mechanical boost control.
97' passat B5 1.8T AEB with FMIC,K04-15,2.75",chip (that was made for the original k03).
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I am having problem with the gas gauge I have a full tank of gas but the gauge needle is stuck on E but when I unhook the battery and hook it back and start the car the gas gauge needle is on the full and its stays on full for like 3 days and then the gas gauge needle will drop back down to the E and stay there. This sound like something wrong in the fuel pump.
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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My 2005 is doing strange things. The fuel gauge is always incorrect. I have done the following:
1. Replaced fuel level sensor.
2. Inspected and tested wiring from the firewall to the tank.
There are no codes present and the fuel % listed in torque is always correct. The gauge sometimes reads 1/2 above full, nearly all of the time it's above the 3/4 tank mark. I have an android head unit that I am using to gauge fuel level right now. I believe the cluster is bad.
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I've read all about the 2013 model having issues with the gas gauge being off...where it would only stay on "full" for a few miles and then quickly go down. I'm having the opposite problem. My gauge is staying on "full" for forever. Right now I've driven about 80 miles and it's still on "full". I accidentally reset the "tripometer" today and then I suddenly had even more miles to empty!!!! I went from 220 to 291 MTE!! Meanwhile my gauge is still on "full"...... Only 600 miles on the car so far......
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Was on my way to my girlfriend's house and decided to do a few pulls. Noticed afterwards my rpm gauge was stuck at 6k rpms and wouldn't go any lower. The car was running fine and I was in 6th gear just cruising at 55mph. Did another pull and after that it was stuck at 8k and if I downshifted the needle would max out at the 6 o'clock position. When I arrived I turned my car off to see if it would reset itself and it got stuck at 7k rpm.
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I recently had the radiator on my car replaced and wen I got it back the temperature and gas gauge needles are both blown past the HOT sign and past the full sign on my gas gauge and is sitting under the little black piece under the the cold side and under the empty side. it was obviously messed with and completely turned around but why is it like this? will it reset itself or should I take i.e., back to the mechanic to have it fixed by him?
2000 buick park avenue....
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS with a couple thousand miles over 100K. There is what appears to be an overheating issue with my car. When I'm driving it in city driving usually less than 45 MPH, the heater blows cold air. However, on the highway (greater than 50 MPH) it blows hot air and the temp needle stays in the normal range (just below the halfway point between hot and cold and more towards the cold). However, when I slow down and come to city speeds, the temp needle starts to rise and the heater blows cold air.
The needle went to the red zone this morning but as soon as it got to the red zone, it slowly came back down to the normal point (within 2-3 seconds). And @ the same time, the heater started blowing warm/hot air like it would be functioning normally. When the needle got the red zone, my car didn't stop or I didn't see smoke coming from the hood or anything like. It was almost like something (maybe thermostat) tripped and allowed the engine to cool.
After doing some research on this, the potential issues point to thermostat, coolant level, radiator crack. I haven't checked how the coolant level is doing but I will check that this weekend.
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Ok I was driving home right know from work, and looking at the speedometer, i notice that my temperature gauge turns off (the needle goes all the way down). what can it be?
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Last night while driving I saw the needle at zero and was surprised because I refilled a few days earlier, there was also no warning light to refuel the car. When reached home turned the car off and then on and the needle moved in position.
It happened again this evening and restart cured it ... only for the gauge to fail again while driving. The fuel-to-empty indicator was not showing any distance.
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Have 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
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Resurrecting my 940 TD after it's been sitting for a year and the temperature needle now doesn't rise as the engine warms up. Is there any trouble with sensors on these or should i be concerned about something else? It was working when I stopped using the car.
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I finally got my 20th to run right. But now and ever since I bought it the gas needle keeps going down and back to normal every time i make a sudden move or go through a bump. What could be causing it?
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Passat TDI: Occasionally the needle on my gas drops to zero, stays there for awhile, then returns to an accurate setting. THE SAME THING is happening on my '99 Jetta GLX. Bad gauge on both cars? Could water from a gas pump due this?
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The needle is moving up and then back down. This mostly happens while at a stop and simultaneously the ac compressor kicks off.
Recently new radiator and temp gauge, plus coolant flush.
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