Geo - Tracker :: 1994 - Relays For Condenser Fan And Compressor Not Activating When AC Switched On
Apr 29, 2015
1994 geo tracker... I'm trying to get my A/C working, but I'm running into an electrical issue somewhere. The relays for the condenser fan and compressor are not activating, even though they are getting 12V when I switch on the A/C. I can run a jumper across where the relay would switch and both turn on and my A/C is cold, but it won't do it without the jumper. I've traced back from my battery to the A/C and checked my dual pressure switch, I'm slowly trying to pick out wires which may have fried.
Both relays work when connected to the battery alone. If I jump the 12V and ground on the harness for the compressor and the harness for the condenser fan, they kick on and A/C is cold. Fuses are good, dual pressure switch is good? It's almost like the relays aren't getting enough current to activate, one of them the switching signal reads only 4 V which is too low, that's for the fan. The compressor reads 12V though on the switch. When back probing them with the relay connected I only read 0.25 V, I don't know if that matters or not.
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my 2002 Chevy Tracker has run faithfully for the last 5-6 years. a few things have come up recently that have needed to be replaced, but nothing huge. after my AC compressor was replaced, my car started powering off in the middle of driving (not while revving engine standing still). mostly on cold starts, but now more frequently. mechanic swears it has nothing to do with AC compressor.
But he is checking drive train today. He has changed the tranny fluid, fuel filter, cleaned the gas tank, cleaned the throttle body (IAC motor), cleaned the mass airflow filter sensor, checked the battery voltage in case of an alternator problem. he has scanned the vehicle while driving and sitting still several times and no codes come up.
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1994 Geo Tracker 1.6L 16V engine won't start, but cranks. I have spark, compression is good, fuel (good fuel), new spark plugs, the crankshaft and camshaft are timed, the distributor is timed, there are no error codes but the ECU is fine.
I've put in new spark plugs and wires, new fuel injectors, new timing belt, new air filter. All sensors are hooked up and working. It cranks, but doesn't start. It keeps burning fuel, I can hear it and feel it in the engine, but it won't start and run.
One thing which I've noticed is weird is the crankshaft is very difficult to turn when it hits certain points. I try to turn it and it will go about a third or a turn pretty easily, but then it gets stuck and I have to turn the key to get it past that point. Then I try to turn it by hand again and it has the same problem in a different spot. It hasn't started in a month at this point, I'm planning on taking the distributor out and realigning it tomorrow, but I'm running out of things to test.
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I have an 05 Prius with 53k miles and the ac just recently stopped working. The blower fan still comes on, but neither the compressor nor condenser cooling fan will come on. I've checked the fuses and relays, and they check out ok. I'm hoping there may be one I missed? It just stopped working with no warning signs. What could be causing this? If the compressor was bad, the condenser fan would still work, right? I'm fearing it's the ac inverter. Do the symptoms match?
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I have been told my AC hose from the Compressor to the Condenser is leaking. How much time do I have to get repaired before AC stops cooling. Can I just get the hose replaced and about how much should it cost? This is a 2000 model.
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So the A/C on my wife's 2013 Tiguan stopped working suddenly this past Thursday, just our luck this weekend was the start of a 95+ degree week. Took it to the dealership today for a diagnostic and they came back saying that the line between the condenser and compressor has a leak and needs to be replaced. They're estimating about $690 including tax for the job, this includes the AC evac and refill.
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In my 2001 2.0, my AC has been blowing hot air for a while now. It was intermittent at first but now is constant.
The compressor runs without going off when the AC is switched on. I can tell because I see the compressor clutch engaged and spinning.
I tested with AC manifold gauges and these are the readings I got.
Engine off : Low is 0, High is 135
Engine on, AC on full blast after running 10 min at 1500 RPM:
Low is 4, High is 135
Looks pretty bad.
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I have a ac compressor that doesn't work all the time. I have read how voltage or low power can effect this. When mine does not start up, if you tap the end of the compressor with a rubber mallet, it engages and runs fine for an extended period. Am I dealing with a power supply issue, or could this just be a bad ac clutch?
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I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
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The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
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I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
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The Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
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I had a small leak in my 94 Explorer which was getting on the compressor pulley and being splattered around the engine compartment. The fluid was green like antifreeze--which didn't make sense; why would antifreeze be leaking from the air con compressor? But as an experiment, I got a non-AC belt and ran the truck without the compressor pulley turning, and the leak has stopped! The level in the coolant overflow tank has dropped an inch or two in the last 500 or so miles. Is it possible that antifreeze is getting into the air con system somehow, like through an internal leak in the heater core?
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I was inside the house. The fob was in the next room. The horn turned on as if I had hit the panic button of the fob.
It turned off when I went over to the fob and hit lock.
Why is the panic button activating itself when I'm nowhere near it?
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My 2000 Chevy Tracker will not go into reverse. Had tranmission drained and cleaned. Still won't go into reverse. Does this model have a separate reverse cable?
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I have a Geo Tracker with 120,000 miles. it starts without hesitation but idles a little high until warmed up. the problem is that it keeps dying without any warning. when it dies it smells like it has flooded. it takes a few minutes to get it started but then runs perfectly smooth again. If I haven't driven it for a few weeks, it will go three for four days before it starts acting up.I changed out the Plugs, Plug wires, and fuel filter.
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Having a problem with the ABS activating when it shouldn't. I happens whenever I slow down to a near stop. Sometimes the ABS and ASR light comes on and it's not a problem, but I ain't got no abs.
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My anti-lock brakes keep activating when i am slowing down from a speed above 10 mph once i reach a mphh. I have just installed koni sports on the front and bg springs all around with 20mm wheels spacers in the rear. The sound is coming from the driver side wheel and i can feel the brake pedal reacting in the way it does when the anti-lock brakes are activating. I haven't had a chance to take the wheel back of and check the sensors and wires.
It makes a grinding and popping kind of noise, which again remind me of anti-lock brakes.
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2000 VW Jetta
Yesterday everything was working great with my FOB key, I swapped plastic housing to one that is in better condition and then things went down hill. Both FOB's tested great for wireless transmitter. Old FOB no longer locks, unlocks or pops trunk. Car drives and turns over with master and valet keys properly (ruling out immobilizer I believe?)
I am trying to reset and program the FOB but my anti-theft system is not turning on with key- and that is critical to have on with what I have read here. Once I can get the red-light flashing and indicating anti-theft is on, I should be good to proceed.
Last night I turned key in car to on position and the alarm was going off, used the master key to pop the trunk open and that caused the alarm to cease.
Since then I can not get the anti-theft/alarm to activate at all. Currently if I have all my doors and windows closed along with the trunk, turning the key in door to the lock position it locks but does not activate the anti-theft -- no blinking red LED. Turning the key twice does not lock all doors either.
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My 2002 Chevy Tracker recently has been running poorly after consuming a 1/4 tank of gas. The check engine light comes on the scan tool reports P0171 and P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean(it's a 2.5 liter V-6). If I remove and replace the gas cap it runs better but not perfect. Once I use another 1/4 tank the symptoms return. I have noticed the cap is hard to remove lately. This has been going on for two weeks It's been to 2 garages one of them told me my catalytic converters are plugged up and wanted 2500 to fix .
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I have a 98 Chevy Tracker 1.6 auto. My OBD reader shows engine load @ 25% in park at idle. What would cause this.
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