Geo - Prism :: 1995 - Stops Moving Every 50 Miles
Mar 24, 2012
I was driving back from college for Spring Break on the I-80 when all of a sudden, about 50 miles out, the car starts bucking and losing speed and within a minute stopped moving entirely. The dashboard showed no indicator lights, and oil and transmission fluid seemed fine and there were no leaks of any kind coming from under the car. A highway patrol office stopped and advised me to drive so he could see the problem first hand.
To my surprise, the car worked perfectly. At this point, I simply drove back to my college town to get the car fixed, as I didn't want to risk driving 300 miles with a problematic car. The mechanic said it was because my catalytic converter was old and clogged up and switched it out. Unfortunately, about 60 miles of driving, the exact same thing happened. This time I drove all the way home, simply letting the car rest for 30 minutes every time it didn't want to move anymore. So, what is wrong with the car?
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When you put the car in park what exactly stops the car from moving. In other is it a brake of sorts or ??
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So I was driving my husbands car the other day -it is a 2010 Ford Escape. He'd just had it in for the 75000 mile service and he'd had an oil leak and some sort of casing replaced to take care of that - and I stopped at a stop sign, turned the corner and 30 yards down the road, the gas peddle did nothing. I putted my way to the side of the road and the thing started shaking and all the lights were on on the dash. I put it in park and it still shook. Shut it off - exhaled deeply and turned the key in the ignition - nothing - but a distant sort of thugh,thugh,thugh,thugh with the wrench light on on the dash. Tried again and it started - and drove. Got home fine. My husband had the exact same thing happen to him, when he took it out so he took it back to the shop - they drove it for about 100 miles and couldn't get it to do anything like we described. They ran all sort of diagnostics and said they can't find anything wrong with the car.
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I have a 2001 Mazda 626. It has stopped unexpectedly while moving 2 times in the past 3 1/2 months. When it stopped (both times) it was mid-day, the a/c was on and I was moving at a low speed (between 5-15 mpg). When this happens, the gear shift locks up and the car won't move. Then after about 15-20 minutes it starts right up!
The car has been checked by my regular mechanic both times, who is terrific, and although he ran a diagnostic both times, found no electrical problem. He's convinced it's some kind of simple mechanical issue but hasn't be en able to diagnose what and isn't inclined to just start replacing any/all possible parts without a definitive reason.
The second time the car did this the Mazda dealership also did a full diagnostic and only reported "repairing" a couple of the battery wires, did not replace anything.
No one knows what's wrong but if the problem isn't resolved soon I will have to get another vehicle because I no longer feel safe in the car.
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Have a new SF 2.4 engine that I just purchased. On the way home the engine cut off twice and two other times there was a noticeable jerk while moving. I will be taking it back to the dealer Monday and they will provide a loaner. What the problem is?
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I run the A/C all the time in the warm months. When I stop at a read light or my car isn't moving, the a/c stops cooling. I had an issue a few weeks ago where my car started to overheat in a drive-thru because the electric fan wasn't running at all. The electric fan connection had gotten loose and melted. I got that fixed but now when I turn the a/c on the electric fan only comes on when the engine needs cooling. The electric fan should be on anytime the a/c is on to cool the condenser correct? Is there a bypass switch or maybe a fuse that was damaged from my previous problem?
2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS
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My speedometer was intermittent for a while, stalling, then moving, but never above the actual speed. Now I turn it on, but as soon as I move, it travels up to 38mph then stays there until I turn off the engine, then it hangs for 4/5 seconds, then drops to zero.
I replaced the VSS in the rear diff, and the one on the tranny. I checked all fuses. There are no other dummy lights or indications. Bad ground? I'm hoping I don't need a new gauge cluster.
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My corolla odometer is adding miles faster than usual all of a sudden. getting about 1.4 miles instead of just one mile. the car has 250,000 miles on it now... What can I do to adjust it, replace it, or what?
Also, when should rear brake drums be replaced. My bearings are bad so should I replace the drums too?
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I have a 95 chrysler lebaron that stops accelerating while driving. I have had the fuel pump replaced twice in the last year and now it is acting up again! It jumps and then gives up. I have not noticed any other signs that happen.
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I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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My truck is vibrating and shaking when you go over 30. but occasionally stops. I replaced the whole rear end, rear shocks, rear brakes, rear drive shaft U- joints, rebalanced the rear tires( they needed that). at least that fixed the noise (grinding) from the rear end is gone but it is still vibrating.. Over $700 in it this week. at least i did the repairs myself and saved a bunch of money. But i am now stumped... I dont know it if is front end issues, transfer case issues, transmission issues....
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I've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
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I've got a 1995 Buick LeSabre that has a curious problem with the air conditioner. The AC blows good and cold, but when I accelerate the air stops blowing from the vents. I can still hear the fan running, so it's like the air is being redirected somewhere. Now, once I get up to speed after accelerating, if I let off the accelerator for a second, the AC resumes blowing normally.
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I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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I have a 1995 Ford Econline E-250 that I have had since it rolled off the factory floor. It has about 225,000 miles on it. I don't use it much any more, but I want to keep it in good running condition - because I do use it occasionally. I had it checked out, nose to tail, and the only thing the mechanic found that needed to be fixed was that it need new ball joints and an ABS switch. I have had that work done.
My question is this: how often, how far, and at what speed should I plan to drive it to keep it in good running condition?
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I have a 1995 ranger with a 4.0 it cranks just fine wont fire has alot of fuel spark it will crank and crack then it stop and acts like it is going to fire up and stops cranking. This thing has 253k on it.....
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Yesterday I was driving around some back roads and I started to hear a ticking when I accelerated when I left my foot off the gas pedal it went away. But when i put my foot on the gas again it comes back. You really cant realize it when you have the radio on... Ive been experiencing rough idling when I come to fast stops and quickly speed up again.
The ticking seems to only happen after like 20 minutes of driving. Most of my trips are only 10 minutes, to either school or to work so it really doesn't happen very often... Although college will start in a few months (30 minute drive) so I wanna get this fixed before something major happen.
Also on a side note, when going up hills it feels like it has delayed shifting. I really don't want to put in anymore money into this truck...already put $ into it the first year of owning it. I guess the good thing is that I got it keeping my fingers crossed nothing is wrong with the transmission or motor, what is wrong?
*I have a 1995 v6 4.0 XLT ranger with 160,000 miles
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I have a 95 F150 4x4 reg cab long box with a 302 V8 and dual tanks... I was driving around yesterday when my truck started to lung and then the motor stalled... when I stopped moving I tried starting the truck and it started with no problem, so as i kept on my way, about 5 minutes later the same thing happened and it stalled again, (I have an automatic by the way). but this time before it stopped moving i pump the gas a few times and it fired back up and then stalled again... i switched from my front take to by back maybe thinking it could me my fuel pump in the tank but it did the same thing again about same time later... Would it be my fuel filter on the frame (like in line fuel filter) or why is it doing that? its EFI by the way.
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when u turn the key it starts to turn over for half a sec then stops. when u stop it sounds like the starter is still spinning. battery is good. it use to do it some times but if she tried a couple times it would start. could it be where the wires go in or the whole thing? could it be somthing else besides the starter?
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