Got a rebuilt head for my metro from a very reputable ebay seller/shop, and it smokes pretty badly after installation. I checked my pcv valve and it has vacuum at idle, and the hose is not plugged. Performed a compression check- 180 on all cylinders- okay for my car. Called the shop to see if maybe they forgot to install the valve seals, and they insisted that there is no way they would forget that.
View 8 RepliesWe have a 2007 toyota camry 2.4l which had a engine problem so car needed a rebuilt engine. so we went to auto repair shop and they installed a rebuilt engine.But when we went to pickup the car the owner of the shop said our a/c is not working and he doesn't know why. he said its a/c compressor clutch is not working. the a/c was working fine before the engine installation. when I talk to other people (different mechanics) they all say that the repair shop who installed the engine caused the a/c problem. How can I prove that so I maybe can sue the guy in a small claims court? for a good gesture the owner of the shop offered us free labor on installation of a/c compressor but not on part which I can bring my own. I need detail argument. people say that in order to win in a small claims court we need many supporting explanation from experts. we just want the a/c to work again. car drives fine after new rebuilt engine.
View 10 RepliesI bought a 94 2.3 did a head job bought a rebuilt head and got it all back together hooked up the battery and blew the fusible link to the alternator. Did I screw something up? I have been rebuilding engines for a long time and never had this happen. Tested the alternator and the O'Reilly guy said that the Voltage regulator was shot putting out 17 amps and that is why the fusable link blew. I don't think that's right because the engine was not running I just hooked up the battery, and no I did not switch the pos and neg. I'm dumb but not that dumb. Any guesses?
View 1 RepliesGeo Metro loose head bolts... I have a 96 Metro, and for some reason the head bolts loosen by themselves, leading to over heating and planing head ... well you know.I had a farm for 20 years and took care of all equipment myself, have rebuilt numerous motors, but this geo is the first I have seen where the bolts loosen. This is the third time. I know they are tightened right , because I have the tools and experience, but not with this. Other than jb weld in the bolt holes.
View 7 RepliesSo, 97 Geo metro 4 cylinder... bought it last month with no lights on... but within 7 miles of purchasing it the check engine light came on. Code is for a High Intake Air Temp... went to take a look at the sensor first... but the sensor had just fallen out of it's mount and was sitting in a hotter area than it belonged... I plugged it in where it goes and the light went out... for about a week. The light came back on, the sensor's where it should be, and I have the same code. I figured it being close to the exhaust manifold may have damaged the sensor, so I replaced that... and the light stayed on. Since it was intermittent before, I assumed the code just didn't clear, so I've been driving it for a while hoping the computer will reset, but no luck.
So, assuming the sensor's fine, what would cause a constant high intake air temp (including when the car first starts)?
Can i change from 3 cyl to 4 cyl 1992 metro....
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used Toyota Avalon with 135,500 miles on it. They sold it because it was smoking and didn't know what was wrong with it(they were an old retired couple). They were the only owners and it has never been driven hard or abused.... Anyway. I read online that unhooking the vacuum hose from the pcv valve may make it stop smoking. I unhooked it and plugged the vacuum hose and they were right. It stopped smoking after I got the rest of the oil out of the hose. I thought maybe the old pcv valve was messed up so I got a new one and hooked it back up but then smoking was back. So I am getting too much blow by in it for sure. I don't think the valve seals are leaking because as soon as I unhooked the vacuum from the pcv valve the smoking stopped. I drove it for 2 days with no smoke whatsoever. What could be causing the blow by to be so strong? It was strong enough to spit oil out of the pcv valve without the vacuum hose sucking it out(there was oil on the engine).
The check engine light is also on so I hooked it up to a computer at an auto parts store and it said I had a misfire on 2 cylinders(2 and 6). So I changed all the spark plugs and re-hooked it to the machine. This time I only got an error code for cylinder 2. Each plug has a coil so I switched the coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 2 to test if maybe the coil was bad, but it still gave me a misfire on cylinder 2 only. I even swapped the plug from 2 to 4 to make sure the new plug wasn't bad. Still a misfire on cylinder 2. It is still smoking(ONLY WHEN VACUUM HOSE IS ON PCV VALVE) and check engine light is still on and error code says cylinder 2 misfire.
So i have a 2002 camry LE 4 cylinder, it has about 173000 miles on it. It belonged to my dad and I bought it off him in June. My dad has always been religious about getting it serviced so it's not like the car is on its last legs or anything. I've driven the car myself probably for 40-50k of those miles while I was living with him, and occasionally when he goes on vacation. The car would always run smooth and other than worn brakes was in tip top condition for a car with its age and mileage.
Anyway, I went to get my oil changed on the 5th. Got out and the car felt zippy and all that good stuff. One week later, I'm parking at home after running errands. As I pull into the spot I notice some faint white smoke coming from under the hood. I pop the hood and see the smoke coming from behind the radiator. No real one spot that the smoke is coming from, but emanating from the middle, behind the radiator up towards the top. I checked the coolant reservoir as my girlfriends old car used to go through periodic overheating due to her never taking care of it, and I'd usually fill it up and make sure the radiator was full and that would be that.
So the reservoir is basically bone dry, I add coolant to the line and I check the radiator. The coolant in the radiator is filled to the top when I go to fill it. I take the car out later that night and it's still smoking slightly. The smoke doesn't start until the car's been running for about 10 minutes or so, which I'm guessing is how long it takes for the underhood components to warm up enough to vaporize the liquids in there. The temperature gauge is always smack dab in the middle while I'm driving and the car is smoking. The smoke is white and there's not a ton of it.
Monday I check the reservoir tank and it's empty again, I refill it and there's still smoke after 10 minutes. Luckily, I work 10 minutes away so I'm just getting to work/home when the smoke starts. I'm planning on taking it in to a radiator specialist on Saturday morning but curious what the community thinks it might be. I'm totally car ignorant so a self repair is kind of out of the question.
I Have two questions on installing studs. Does the 6 oclock dowel position really matter? To me it doesnt make much sense because the timing isnt changed with just studs so there should be no issue with valve clearance and such. Unless something isnt installed correctly.
Also what is the best way to clean the block? I thought Senior Master Tech on youtube had an interesting way with a piece of angle iron.
I got a deal on a1997 f450 7.3 what does it take to swap to 2001 f250 7.3.mine has a bad cylinder with smoking nd low compression.
View 5 Repliesvery faint but it's there. Kenwood Exelon head unit and 5chan amp. Noise varies a bit with throttle. Equipment is all decent / good quality. Is this something I have to live with as a hybrid owner? I have a short ground from the amp in the spare well area at the factory battery ground point. Have a dead silent amplified system in these cars?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 7.3L f250 superduty. after rebuild and a yr now have engine smokes when you rev the engine and an imbalance on No1 cylinder causing injector to carbon up poss from prev misfires due to injector harness now solved? Found the turbo exhaust outlet pipe leaking oil we think because the wrong size clamp fitted. will fit new clamp tomorrow but if this does not solve problem what next? This has now cost thousands and still having problems...
View 14 RepliesI bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 GMC Sonoma pickup truck with supposedly a blown cylinder head gasket. It only has 53K original miles on it. It overheated and I had it towed to a service shop. They put in a new water pump, new coolant, new thermostat, new radiator hose and did an oil & filter change. Well, 100 miles later, I noticed my water coolant was disappearing and the oil pressure was rising. I brought it back to the same shop and after looking at it for five minutes they informed me it was a blown cylinder head gasket. They said they had no way to determine this when they were doing the repairs the first time. So, I ask the following:
1-Was it proper for the shop to do the first repair without checking for a potential head gasket leak?
2-Is there some type of testing that could have been done by the repair shop to check for coolant leaks into the engine oil? 3-Would I have saved money (labor) by having this taken care of at the time of the initial repair?
I have an 06 F-250 5.4 gas w/138k. It had recently had a lot of play on the wheel (15 degrees maybe) and last week I made the move to replace the gearbox with a redhead box. All seemed to go ok, but now the steering is stiff and it won't come all the way back to center after a turn. It turns smoothly and completely with no binding, but it has to be moved the last 1/3 turn back to center.
I flushed the fluid initially with Valvoline max life fully syn. Then second guessed myself after the problem started happening so I switched it back to regular Mercon. No improvement.
I had it on stands today and it was extremely difficult for me to turn my tires left to right manually (at the wheel). The only other thing I did was adjust the sleeve on the drag link to straighten out the steering wheel.
Should I be able to turn the tires left and right from the wheel easily? Every now and then I hear a whine from the pump which I never had before, but 99% of the time it seems fine and is quiet. it just feels like something is over tight but everything should be to spec.
My V6 Tdi is in the garage with a leaking cylinder head, this is the 2nd time the head has required replacing first at 46,000 now the replacement head is leaking ( porous ) after being on the car for 80,000. So ! 2 heads in 2 years.
View 8 RepliesMy 99 CR-V has lost compression in cyl #3 and now #4, 40 and 30psi respectively. Still runs, about 10mpg or less local, 14 highway. No HP, forget fifth gear unless I'm drafting someone downhill on the highway. I've got 228k on this otherwise nice vehicle. CEL reading misfire codes galore. Anyhow, should I trust one of these outfits that will send me a rebuilt head with my returning the core or should I pay some local a bunch more for the rebuild?
View 17 Replieswhats the best way to clean a 97 f150 5.4 cyl head
View 2 RepliesI'll be working on an 03 camry this weekend with a small oil leak coming from the alternator and headers area. I know For sure its a gasket that will need replacing but which one and how difficult is it? On the last pic there's a blue circle ;the leak is from that area.....
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Honda Civic that I was given by an elderly neighbor's daughter after the elderly lady went to the grocery and ended up 100 miles away when she could not figure out how to get home. The car was smogged at the beginning of the year but when I got it ran very rough and the temp went nearly to overheating on the drive home when I was stuck in stop and go traffic.I found the radiator fluid level low and an oily residue inside the radiator water bottle. I took it to a mechanic to check it out and was told it had a blown head gasket and maybe worse.
I am thinking of buying a rebuilt cylinder head and replacing it myself but I am not sure how to diagnose if any other damage could have been caused to the engine. It's hard to know but I am guessing that the engine was damaged during the 100 mile road trip due to low coolant level. It turns out short term memory loss was the diagnosis for my elderly neighbor. I filled the coolant level and ran the engine for a bit and the temp stayed normal but the rough running remains. The oil dip stick shows no signs of coolant in the oil and the coolant looks bright green when I looked in the radiator after topping it up with some water.
Any way to detect if I could be facing bigger issues like failed bearings? I am OK to do the head replacement but an engine replacement starts to get into the realm of what it would cost to get another car of the same age.
Looking for if the camry 5sfe cylinder head from 92 to 01 will fit a 94 camry?
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