Geo - Metro :: 1997 - Won't Start Once It Warms Up
Nov 10, 2015
First time user here, have done several repairs to my vehicles, but I'm still a greenhorn when it comes to general car operation knowledge.
My 1997 Geo Metro with a 1.3 Liter will start when the engine is cold but once it warms up it refuses to start. I've replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator, and checked to make sure the fuel pump is working and it is. I think I've narrowed it down to the fact that the fuel injector is not pulsing. It will fire when I prime it, but dies immediately.
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I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
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The switch is broken internally and the wipers are set on the highest speed. For now I just pulled the wiper fuse so I can still drive to work and whatnot without burning up the wiper motor. Were I can find a cheap replacement switch? 97 LSi SDN ....
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I got a 95 geo metro with a 1.3 that i cant figure out whats wrong with it. I got gas to the lines leading to the throttle body, but theres no gas coming through injector. I cant hear the fuel pump kick over either, which makes me wonder if the pump isnt putting out proper pressure. What's going on?
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I have a 97 Geo Metro two door that just stalled on me one day driving up a hill. It was low on fuel and so I thought it might have just ran out of fuel. I put more fuel in it but it would not start. I had it towed back home and disconnected the hose out of the fuel pump to see if any fuel would spray out. It did not. This lead me to conclude the fuel pump is bad. I replaced the fuel pump but this still did not fix the problem. I had an electrical guy looking at it run a bypass wire to the fuel pump and it still did not work. His conclusion was that the ECM is bad. Does this sound like a logical conclusion?
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This Geo Metro 3 cyl engine cranks with spark, but won't start. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pump relay. The fuel pump does not make a noise. What could it be?
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I have a 2000 chevy metro, whenever i start it up after it's been sitting for a little while a white smoke comes out of the back of it. zWhy this is doing it and how much approx.
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My brother (deceased ) had a girlfriend (very manipulative person ) who has left a 99 Metro 3 cyl sitting since 2012 ,now it wont run ,it will fire if you pour gas into the throttle body How hard is it to get to the fuel pump on that thing ?
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I have a 1997 88 with 79k. When the engine is warm and my foot is off the gas, the car occasionally dies. I can restart it each time this occurs.
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I have a 97 Wrangler 4 liter that lurches violently. It runs fine until the engine is warmed up. After the engine warms up it it begins lurching. When I put the clutch in, the lurching stops. When I let the clutch out, it is okay for 1-2 seconds (i can get power and advance the vehicle), then I put the clutch in and repeat that process. When I give it a little gas with the clutch in, the engine runs smooth - so it doesn't appear to be a gas problem. When I give it gas with the clutch out it lurches violently.
After pulling it into my garage I let it idle to about 5 minutes. It idles rough and is about to stall, when it apparently shoots a little more gas preventing it from stalling.The check engine light has come on. I took it to my local mechanic who cannot find the problem. The "computer code" indicates a faulty oxygen sensor. He also checked the fuel pressure which is okay.It has 120K miles and otherwise has been a great vehicle. It has been well maintained.
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I have a 2003 f150 4.2 v8. and i have a squeaky belt I am almost positive its the belt i went to change it today but being sick,cold (NY), getting dark having just worked 10 hrs and changing oil it was not going well.
The reason I think its the belt it does not squeak when its really cold out but once it warms up a little its back so I am thinking when it gets warm it stretches out a little and when its cold it shrinks up or am I just crazy..
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1997 Ford Econoline HD Club Wagon E350 2wd 250k 6.8l V-10 Factory front and rear air, rear evap is there but all other components were removed from previous owner to use as a work van.
Air works great other than at idle it warms up some, not a real big issue at the moment, and also has a small vac leak somewhere as under heavy throttle or towing any bog will change vents to defrost and floor. not a big deal at the moment.
My issue right now is I was driving yesterday down the interstate air on full blast freezing me real good (awesome at speed on these 100 degree days in NC) and all of a sudden ambient air, no more awesomeness.
I pulled over to take a quick look but was way too hot to sit on the side of the interstate and look further, got the ole girl home and looked at it today.
Compressor kicks on as it should, but all the lines stay the same no condensation, blend door is moving to adjust from any vents the control tells it to.
My question is if it was low on freon the compressor wouldnt kick on at all, and if its up and cycling correctly why aren't the lines becoming cold? the temp door is also working as with the van warm the air will blow hot then when i switch it back to cold it gets cool just not cold, temp of air around blower.
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I got a new ipr an looking in the oil pump end there's a small spring with a screw n the middle. Is this a pressure adjustment for the valve or what any body no. I have a 97 power stroke that when i start it cold idles fine as engine warms it starts to miss . I have changed everything i mean everything but ipr and map sensor.
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We've been having intermittent issues with no start after car warms up. No codes have been thrown, newer plugs. Car runs fine once it starts no misses or hesitations. I haven't found any good sources for schematics of fuel sys or ignition in order to begin to diagnose the problem. Issue isn't present on cold start or after car has set a few hours (at least not yet). Cranks strong. Once when I drove the car and got stuck I was able to give it a shot of starting fluid after the air box and got it to fire off. which leads me to think it's fuel related. I haven't had the tools to check spark the last time I got stuck. My wife typically drives it as my commute doesn't replicate the problem.
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My 86 f150 will start great and run when cold, but when it warns up it won't start. I will turn over strong, but it just won't fire. I have replaced the ecm and the Icm. What else could it be?
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Timing belt broke, replaced belt and head camshaft position sensor. After engine is ran awhile 5-10 miles it will not start until it cools down for at least 45 minutes. Even with jumper cables attached.
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Last fall I flushed and changed out my water pump, Thermostat, Coolant Temperature sensor, and coolant reservoir. My 2001 Excursion ran find all fall and winter long. This year I changed out the Fan clutch.
Problem: when it warms up and drive well for a while than the gauge start to go up and start staying its overheating. The weird thing is when I turn on the A/C it brings the temperature back down. When its in gear and running without the A/C it creeps up to almost the red. I cleaned the Radiator and made sure it was clean but it still does the same thing. On top of that, the upper hose (when the car is turned off) seem to colapse slightly.
Other than getting it professional Flushed I don't know. The coolant has nothing to do with the Radiator? I'm pretty much stump with it.
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My fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
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I've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
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I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
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I have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
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