Geo - Metro :: 1994 - Massive Oil Burning Under Load But Barely Any At Slow Speeds


Sep 23, 2012

I recently got my hands on a 1994 Geo Metro 1.0L 3 cylinder. Actually I got TWO of them. One had a bad engine (burned valves) but was otherwise a good car while the other was junk (expect for the engine) and I am amazed the suspension didn't separate from the body due to the rust. So, I decided to swap the engine from the junk car to the good car. I replaced all seals and gaskets external to the engine plus the PCV valve and gave everything else a good cleaning. The only seals and gaskets not replaced were the intake gasket, head gasket, and exhaust gasket as the engine was swapped in a complete manner. I also did the timing belt and water pump while I was in that far as well as did the plugs/wires/cap/rotor when putting it back in. I also ran an oil change through of cheap oil and some Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out any sludge as it looks like oil hadn't been changed real well in this engine. This oil came out pretty dirty after like 30 minutes of idling.

This little car runs amazing overall and keeps up with traffic and is way more peppy than I would ever imagine! It is also getting somewhere between 50-55 MPG and is fun to drive kinda like a big go kart. There is ONE MAJOR issue! If I get on a highway and try to maintain speeds of 65MPH or faster on big hills, I am guaranteed to get massive smoke clouds from the valve cover area filling with oil and puking it through the PCV/breather assembly right into the intake. I tried more oil changes with synthetic oil and this kept happening. I also ran Seafoam and MMO through the oil and drove it like 30 miles before the change. The oil came out really black each time. I can now actually see bare metal on the inside of the valve cover area through the oil fill where before it was all black after all these oil changes. I also replaced the PCV once again for good measure as it was like a $6 part.

I drove about 100 miles on the highway and started getting massive smoke screens every time I got a long uphill grade and tried to maintain speed, especially if I stayed in 5th gear. The car had more than enough power to make it up the hill in 5th but would smoke under the load. This began to make me suspect I had a serious blowby problem. I had a quart of oil in the car and added all of this during a couple stops on the way. I was at or slightly below the low mark when I decided to head home so I found a parts store and purchased a quart of the cheapest store brand 10W40 oil I could find and used this to get home. It still smokes quite a bit but maybe not like on the way there. I also had the wind at my back so I figured part of this was load dependent.

I was at or just below the fill mark on the dipstick when I got home so I added some more 10W40 oil I had sitting around for an ATV I no longer own. I know this is formulated for motorcycles and ATVs but figured I wouldn't hurt the engine any more. I also added some auto trans fluid as I know some people say the detergents in this can free stuck rings and work wonders in a neglected engine. Again, how can I do more damage to this engine than has already been done? The car calls for 5W30.

I have pretty much resigned myself to the fact that this little engine had 170K of not the best maintenance and is due for a rebuild. My plans are to keep driving the car while rebuilding the other engine with bad valves. I am glad I kept the old engine around. The car seems to be doing a lot better on the mix of thicker oil and ATF but wonder how long it can go like this. I took it out on the highway and really pushed it hard to see if I could make it blow smoke and it would not. It MAY have consumed some oil on the dipstick but I am even not sure about this. I am not adding any until I can see a definite drop in the level.

Here is my next question. What is likely the solution I found? Thicker oil sealing worn rings better? ATF dissolving crud around stuck rings? When/if I change the oil before I get to the rebuild, what weight should I use? 5W40 maybe? Also, these engines are notorious for burning valves if a thicker oil is used as the hydraulic lifters don't allow them to close completely.

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My car seems to jerk whilst driving, not specifically under load. Sometimes when I'm in park with my foot on the brake, it feels like its very subtly jerking on the spot. It is a sporadic condition, sometimes my car won't jerk at all (or very few times) on the way to work, and other days it will jerk a lot. On the whole it seems to be getting worse though. When switching between gears when stopped it changes quite roughly (but not violently). Turning on the AC makes the condition worse. It has stalled once in reverse, and sometimes feels like it will stall again when I'm slowing down.

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Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Slow Start And Burning Rubber Smell

Vehicle:
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Symptoms:
- Slow Start (when cranking takes 2 full seconds before it will turn over and you can hear the engine cranking slower, use to turn over right away)
- Very Strong Burning Rubber Smell

History:
Last January it got down to -20 here in Albuquerque and I would have to go to work at that time. About a week later (when it was still getting down to about 0) I was driving home from work when I smelled a slight smell of burning rubber. I thought it was the car in front of me. The next day I had the same thing. It continued for about a month till the temps rose a bit and then went away. I could never find the cause. I then went all spring, summer, and fall without any problems on my Santa Fe.

As the temps begun to drop over the past 6 weeks we started to smell the burning rubber again, at first only when I would start the car till it warmed up. About 2 weeks ago the car started cranking slower and would take longer to turn over and within the past week I can smell the burning rubber smell even when I had the engine at temp. There's not any idiot lights on. The car is running fine except for what was mentioned, gets up to temp and stays there (a little below the middle on the gauge like normal). I pop the hood and looked at the belt, looked good (no cracks). Checked all the fluids and the only thing that's low is the coolant.

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We have had had our Santa Fe for a year, done 38000 km and love it. The car will start up and drive around town fine but as soon as the engine is under load at highway speeds or driving up a hill it loses all power.

In Automatic when this happens the gear will drop back to third. You can switch it over to manual mode and slowly accelerate back up to around 80-90km/hour with your foot flat to the floor but the rpm don't get above around 2000 to 3000.

If you stop and turn the engine off for a minute or so, when you start again everything will appear to back to normal but after another minute or two the problem will be back. The engine malfunction light comes on and sometime it's flashing but at other times it's constant.

The car's been in at our local Hyundai dealer for a week but at this stage they still can't quite figure out the exact cause of the problem. The code they pulled out suggested it was the exhaust particulate filter (apparently quite an expensive part) so they replaced that but it didn't fix it. They've also replaced the fuel filter and some temperature sensors that are part of the particulate filter apparently but still no joy.

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If I let off the accelerator, the sound stops, as soon as I add load by pressing the accelerator the sound returns. If I shift to Neutral the sound is gone.

If I coast at any speed the sound is gone. It is only audible when under load at speeds above 37-40 mph. The cadence does increase as I speed up, but it doesn't sound as fast as the motor is turning (~1900 rpm's).

I monitor the truck with torque pro using the PIDs defined here on FTE. I can see lock-up in 3rd and the shift to overdrive. When in lock-up, I see 1-7rpm TCSlip.

Watching transmission temp as reported by torque, the hottest I see is 183* pulling an enclosed 6x12 @ 75 mph. Ambient temp is 95*. Excursion currently has 240k miles on the clock.

This sound was first heard by my wife two weeks ago. I thought I had tire issues and they needed to be rotated. The sound is still present, and now identified only when the truck is in drive, and under load, regardless of me pulling a trailer.

Yesterday on my 500 mile trip, the truck hiccuped several times which I believe was around the time I was either moving in or out of overdrive. Details in a different thread: [URL] .....

Anyway, I've looked at all culprits and can't find anything with the motor, or electrical system. I can't get to a transmission shop until Monday, and won't have my AE until I get home Sunday night. I have a 500 mile run tomorrow. I checked the transmission fluid and it's at a good level, pink, and doesn't have a bad smell.

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