GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Key Remote Stopped Working And Will Not Unlock / Lock Door
Aug 9, 2012
I have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
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All the sudden i cant lock or unlock my doors with my fob.
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Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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My Key Fob buttons stopped working, I can't remote lock/unlock the doors or truck anymore with the key. It will still open the doors and start the car however. My thought is the battery is dead. 2 Questions.
First, how do I change the battery?
Second, does the key have to be reprogrammed? If so, can I do it, or is that a dealer thing?
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I have a 20th anniversary gti and the driver side door wont lock and the gas door wont unlock. The passenger door is fine. The drivers side door will not lock from the switch inside the car or the remote. I already replaced the locking module and nothing changed. I also unplugged and cleaned the 3 plugs for the drivers side wiring harness.
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So all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.
My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.
After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.
After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.
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The dear wife crashed our 2004 Prius, crumpling the entire bumper and left front side. The body shop has fixed everything nicely, with one small exception. There is no longer the reassuring beep(s) when using the fob to remotely lock or unlock the doors. The lights flash, as before, and the panic alarm still works.
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Lock seems to be stuck. I have to use the key. Other doors unlock with the remote once I have opened driver door with key. It is a 1998 Honda CRV with 103,692 miles in good shape. This problem may occur on all types of cars. Can it be repaired...
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Today I used my remote to unlock my car without a problem. When I got home from work I went to lock my car and nothing. I went a bought a new battery and replaced it, still no luck which now means I can lock my car but cannot set my alarm. I tried my extra remote and no luck with that one either.
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The battery seems good in key, but I can stand next to car and it will "click" but door wont lock or unlock.
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1) This is not battery problem, because smart function is work. If battery dead , smart function complete dead, and I change 2 new battery.
2) sometime smart fob can remote lock door. but 99% is not work. I don't know why.
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Driver's power door lock will sometimes not lock with remote when outside car. The lock button will only move part way towards being locked but not enough to lock the door. The same is true when the inside master lock is pressed to lock all doors. The driver's door lock will only move part way. When returning to car, remote will unlock all doors except driver's door. This happens about half the time. i.e sometimes the remote will lock/unlock ALL doors and sometimes all doors except the driver's door.
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I've 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.4 AWD. From past few days my Front Passenger Door Lock/Unlock is not responding when i try to open via remote lock/Unlock buttons. All other door locks are working fine. I googled and found some issues with door actuators.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe, mileage is under 50000.
The remote Door lock, does not lock or unlock drivers door. But locks/unlocks all the other door.
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When I use the remote to lock/unlock the doors the drivers side door won't activate . . . .unless it's really cold outside. The other 3 doors work year round.
Sounds weird but as the weather gets colder the lock on the drivers door will start to work. As winter turns to summer here in Illinois it starts to act up again. When it does work, it seems that unlocking works more consistently than locking.
Asked the dealer to have a look at it. They said it was a "weak actuator motor" and suggested to replace it. Sounds bogus to me.
I've tried to have a look down there but I'm afraid to take it all apart for fear I won't be able to get it all back together. Are there adjustments that can be made to the linkage or are lubrication points that might get this thing back working again . . . . . . all year long?
I also noticed that manually working the passenger side lock will lock the rear doors but won't lock the drivers door so it's not the remote. I never paid attention to whether manually working the driver side lock would lock the other doors but I think not since the buttons are right there on the drivers door.
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When I hit the unlock button on my key fob or inside the car the one door just doesn't want to unlock.. I have had someone tell me before that i can unhook my battery for 15mins then do something else.. I can't remember what they said.
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The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
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My GLI's remote key will not lock the drivers door when I try to lock the car. I can unlock the entire car with the remote but when I try to lock it, it locks all the doors except for the driver's door.
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I traded my 2005 prius a year and a half ago for an '08 which apparently was a rental car for 40K miles before me. It came with only one key(not a SKS)which recently quit unlocking the doors and hatch remotely. I looked under the steering column and there is only a reset button for the tire sensor guage, and a couple blanks, presumably one would be for the remote/smart key reset.
I am currently using the enclosed key to manually unlock the doors. The remote works as usual when I place it in the slot to start the car. I live an hour plus from the closest dealers, and would love to address this issue without having to go there. I checked the FOB battery and even replaced it, although the voltage was practically identical between the existing battery and a new one. The little red light is operational when i press lock/unlock. The car stays outside - i don't have a garage, and remains unlocked between trips. Recently it sat for several days in the last large snowstorm. When I finally drove it up the 1/3 mile driveway, it would not lock when i was ready to leave it up on the 'hard road'. I've checked out a few related threads, but haven't hit on this issue yet. Perhaps the 12V battery is weak?
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So yesterday I finally got around to replacing the driver side door lock module in my GLI. I bought a OEM replacement. After taking 4 hours to install it yesterday I locked the doors and armed the alarm to see if replacing the module would stop the possessed car alarm. It didn't, at 1:30 am the alarm went off waking up me and my family. I've ran out of options of what it could be setting off the alarm and it's annoying having to unhook the battery every night.
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