GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Valve Blow Off With Vacuum - Negative Boost?
Oct 21, 2009
This is my other question. I have an APR program and turbo-back billy boat exhaust. I installed a boost gauge that gets the reading off of the intake manifold (fuel regulator.)
So if I'm just tooling along, short-shifting and only using 1/10 throttle, and my boost gauge never reads above -5, let alone 0 or positive, why does my valve release pressure?
Why would there be pressure to release if there is a vacuum, according to the gauge? I wouldn't think that a recirculating or blow-off valve would work in reverse.
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I wanted to get a blow-off valve for my GLI but its bone stock, i was wondering if its possible or if it would cause problems. and if i can whats a good brand?
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I got a 04 jetta gli that is making a loud blow off noise at around 15 psi. Up until then the the boost holds fine but then at around 15 psi it just starts whistling really loud and loses all boost. I recently replaced the DV and venthose by the camshaft, and made sure that it is tight. I also installed a 42DD 3" exhaust recently. The car has about 96k on it with stock vacuum hoses except for the aforementioned adjustments. I'm pretty sure it's not the hose and DV I replaced because I made sure that they were tight to see if that was the problem, and it did not fix it.
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If your diverter valve is bad, will it throw a CEL or not always? I don't have a CEL but sometimes I feel like there is a lag in the boost. Wondering if the diverter valve is bad or not.
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Looking to have it installed? I bought it but I haven't installed it yet...
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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The A/C hasn't been working for a month now, won't blow cold air. Took it to the shop and they put 1.5 pounds of freon in it. But it still won't blow cold. I'm taking a 1200 mile trip in it soon and the shop isn't an option. There's no leak as of now. What to do?
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i have a 04 gli torando red i spike at 12psi and hold at 10psi. the last three days im only getting 5 psi i fixed some vacuum leaks and it went back to 10psi then today back to 5psi dont know if its chipped it does have fmic and air intake and bov...
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I'm to the point of driving the car off a cliff! I've included a log of the car acting upt. The car is a 20th AE GTI AWP. It was chipped all it's life and ran like a champ. In November I installed a Frankenturbo F21T turbo kit, Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, 3" MAF, eBay FMIC, 3" catted exhaust, and a custom tune from Motoza. Dave at Motoza has updated the file 4 times and no matter what he changes, the car will boost up to the requested boost of 19psi and hold it for almost one second, then boost will drop to 12-15psi and then boost past the request to like 22-24 psi and go back and forth until the gear is over and I shift. Then it does the same thing in the next gear. i just want a solid 18-20psi without a manual boost controller! Things I have tried:
-Changed the N75J back to a NEW stock N75
-Replaced all the N75 vacuum lines
-Wastegate cracks at 7-8psi
-Replaced every worm feed clamp to a nice T-bolt clamp
-Boost leak tested to 18psi and found no leaks
-Deleted SAI, N249, and N112
-Unplugged MAF, nothing changed
LOG with multiple WOT pulls: [URL]...
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I have a 20th 1.8t. It was running fine last week but all of the sudden i was only getting about 4-5 psi. I have check all over vwvortex for somewhat of an answer. I have no C.E.L.. I have checked for vacuum leaks with nothing coming up. I tried to check for boost leaks but it comes out of the dipstick hole. I have undone and re-installed the pancake pipe. The DV is holding pressure.
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when the traction control is off my boost hits 18psi and there have been times where it was 20 psi. My friend said i probably have stage 1 software .
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Start with the basics, no CEL's, car has not cut out while driving and I've only had to attempt cranking up the car twice since I started noticing these issues about 6 months ago.
Symptoms: hesitation/variation in boost during acceleration- doesn't matter if I really get into the gas or just "normal" passing acceleration RPM's steadily climb, but just not as consistent or quickly. Also, the one that really has me really confused. With a 1/4 tank of gas or less, going up a slight incline (overpass); 70-mph-ish... acceleration dies off, rpm's slowly decline, and gas pedal doesn't respond for about 2-3 seconds. Car never shuts off, no CEL's, then everything is fine again! Even does it when I'm using cruise control. Car just rolled 110,000 miles
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I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
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So I have a 20th AE with 113k Miles.
All of engine is stock, but when I FLOOR it from about 3rd-4th or sometimes 2nd-3rd the car will build up boost but release it without me letting go off pedal.
So, basically as I am driving the car sort of builds up, drops, builds up, drops without my doing anything but drive.
It will rev to about 3k stop for a second, rev to 4k stop for a split second, rev to 5k and so on... Not sure what this is or why it could be happening...
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Having trouble with car going into limp mode or just not boosting at all. Tried some basic things to fix it, plugs, coilpacks, tune, none have work.
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So I just installed a boost gauge. Vacuum line is running off the fuel pressure regulator. My boost is now not going over 10 psi and the engine is cutting out. It kinda feels like the dv isn't holding psi but just always open. The car is a 05 gli with intake and exhaust.
Also the car seems to be running alright at below 2000 rpm and it just starts to cut out when it should be making boost. And I'm pretty sure this car is reprogrammed because yesterday when I finished the boost gauge install it was running at19 psi.
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So the long story short, i bought a JB 20th with 36k miles on it, lowered on Neuspeed Race Springs and HD Koni Struts. When bought, both inner CV boots were torn on the car. I ordered OEM CV boot repair kits for all four joints (made by Rein OEM manufacturer) and rebuild the axles completely.
I got the car up in the air today and the drivers side inner CV boot is already torn, after only a few hundred miles (if that many).
From what i understand, it is a common problem on the O2M 1.8T setups after lowering? Is there a solution?
I searched around, but it is still not clear what is the source of it, even though i found plenty of threads that state that its a common problem.
Upon inspection, the geometry of the axle or the angle at which it operates when the car is on the ground does not look that bad, it simply does not make sense.
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so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
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For some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
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When I hit the gas and my turbo reached high boost (15 psi and up), it would slightly sputter and make an odd sound. I even noticed my exhaust made a different exhaust note than usual. While it sputtered the CEL began flashing. I then drove it normally (not high boost) all the way home and it drove completely fine. I'm gonna try and get my codes checked tomorrow.
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Car now has about 67,000 miles on it. I drove it from the bay to Lake Tahoe 2 weeks ago, which is when I first noticed the light. I tried to go to a couple of autozone's to get the code read but none of them would do it. I also noticed that now on my boost gauge that i am only reading 4-5psi under load, so its not quite feeling like i'm getting as much power as before. What a common issue is at about this many miles on a 1.8t car? (GLI)
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