GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Turbo Went Out / Car Is Sluggish
Mar 3, 2012
My 20th just hit 107k and in the past couple days I have noticed that my car is somewhat sluggish compared to normal and there is also a VERY audible whine when I take off from a stop.
The same thing happened to my friend's Turbo 300zx when his turbo went out and I think that may be whats happening to mine.
This is the perfect excuse for me to replace my K03 with a more respectable turbo like a K04 hybrid or possibly a BT setup. What I'm wondering is how expensive these options are and how worth it are they. I know you can get away with not upgrading certain things when going BT, but I want to do things right to avoid problems down the road
SO....
I currently have Stage 1 APR software, DG Short shifter, and and itg SRI.
I'm not trying to build a 500hp fwd beast, but what all is considered necessary to run a BT without issues and what would the price be? Again, estimates are totally fine, I can locate parts if i know what to look for
And lastly: What is the general opinion of the ATP Eliminator? I haven't heard much about it and all of my research is fairly inconclusive. I'm just trying to weigh my options.
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I just installed a neuspeed ram air intake on my gli. I noticed that top end seems a little more sluggish. Is there anything i need to do? I have heard you should disconnect your battery for a few to reset your computer.
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Driving into work this morning I noticed that my car was a bit sluggish. So in the name of science (mainly curiousity) I decided, that I would try to punch it. Came to find out that my girl is runnin a little sluggish. Turbo was pulling as hard as it normally does, and my gauge was saying that im only hitting 9lbs when usually its around 11lbs. Could this be a sign of my turbo going out and now is time for a k04-22 or is it time to change the springs in my 007?
by the way I just rolled over 113k. had all the services done at 104k
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I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
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How hard it is to install a turbo manifold??
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I have a 2004 VW jetta GLI 1.8 turbo and when i get it to about three and a half grand it feels like my turbo is giving out, all acceleration stops. But I doesn't do it all the time, meaning not every time i step on the gas, like I can step on it all through first and second, and it will do it in third or visa-versa. Which leads me to believe that it could be a fuel delivery problem but I don't know, im new to the VW game. The check engine light will come on while the car is bogging down but as soon as the rpms go down it will turn off.
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So I have a bad map sensor and lately my turbos been going in and out of limp mode. I recently just replaced with a new n75 valve and it solved the problem for about a week and now it's acting up again. Its not a constant problem it occurs usually every 20 starts. Could the map sensor be the reason why my car is going into limp mode?
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Like the title says....Is is possible to run a Big Turbo with a Side mount Intercooler? Im a not talking about a 600HP kit. More like a kit that can produce something around 350hp.
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i just installed my downpipe and i took it around the block and i opened the hood and there was smoke coming from the turbo could it be b.c i didnt put the washers witht he bolts to connect the dp but i put them on really tight or could it be the wd40 i sprayed on to loosen the bolts?
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I just replaced the turbo to manifold gasket and bolts but the but bolt closest to the engine keeps backing out.. i cnt seem to find a tool that can tighten all the way..
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When I drive my car past about 3000 rpms then let them fall i hear an odd sort of vibrating noise coming from the turbo between where ever I rev it up to and about 2600 rpms. Is this normal? Its fairly quiet and can only be heard without the radio on and if your listening for it. This worries me because I've only had this k03 for about 5000 miles .Some background info I am chipped with uni at 20psi, full 3" turbo back and an 007 dv.
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So my 20th runs completely fine until rain is involved.. Once it rains and I bring my rpms high or use my turbo it almost staples out and the gas doesn't work.. Also I notice it shoots out a puff of white smoke and my. Turbo doesn't spool at the way.. It basically tries and just does something like psh psh psh psh like second spools? Could water get in my. Turbo or something.
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I was randomly driving today and my turbo started to sound a little weird.
Every time i accelerate, turn it on or rev it up it sounds like a turbo diesel truck! I have no clue what it could be..
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Engine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
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I've come to the conclusion that after 300,000 miles my turbo is sticking. I need to drive the truck up to my mechanic but he's 50 miles away 90% highway (really don't wanna pay the towing bill) would this hurt the truck any more or would it be okay? If it will hurt the truck more I'll get it towed but I'm trying to avoid that at all costs. I have drove it since the turbo began to stick but it is very sluggish and smokes a lot. As soon as I let off the pedal boost immediately drops to 0 psi.
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
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I was following the directions on the APR site to remove the ECU and it seems to not make sense. Saying the ECU is on the passenger side underneath the molding....
is the ECU in the center?
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I've had the leak for a long time now possibly from when I've gotten it... anyway when I first bought it I drove it a lot, like 8k miles in 6 months. During that time I went through a qt of oil about every week and a half. Now the last 3 months I've been barely driving it due to life changes so I'm barely putting oil in I'll go weeks sometimes of checking the level and it'll be fine. This leak has to relate with how often its driven and maybe hot?
I've had the car up multiple times to try and find the spot all I know is it's behind the engine below the valve cover gasket and above or near the turbo area(I've only owned my first VW this 20th for less then a yr so I'm still learning)
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