GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Turbo Is Going Out / All Acceleration Stops
May 6, 2009
I have a 2004 VW jetta GLI 1.8 turbo and when i get it to about three and a half grand it feels like my turbo is giving out, all acceleration stops. But I doesn't do it all the time, meaning not every time i step on the gas, like I can step on it all through first and second, and it will do it in third or visa-versa. Which leads me to believe that it could be a fuel delivery problem but I don't know, im new to the VW game. The check engine light will come on while the car is bogging down but as soon as the rpms go down it will turn off.
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My 20th just hit 107k and in the past couple days I have noticed that my car is somewhat sluggish compared to normal and there is also a VERY audible whine when I take off from a stop.
The same thing happened to my friend's Turbo 300zx when his turbo went out and I think that may be whats happening to mine.
This is the perfect excuse for me to replace my K03 with a more respectable turbo like a K04 hybrid or possibly a BT setup. What I'm wondering is how expensive these options are and how worth it are they. I know you can get away with not upgrading certain things when going BT, but I want to do things right to avoid problems down the road
SO....
I currently have Stage 1 APR software, DG Short shifter, and and itg SRI.
I'm not trying to build a 500hp fwd beast, but what all is considered necessary to run a BT without issues and what would the price be? Again, estimates are totally fine, I can locate parts if i know what to look for
And lastly: What is the general opinion of the ATP Eliminator? I haven't heard much about it and all of my research is fairly inconclusive. I'm just trying to weigh my options.
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How hard it is to install a turbo manifold??
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So I have a bad map sensor and lately my turbos been going in and out of limp mode. I recently just replaced with a new n75 valve and it solved the problem for about a week and now it's acting up again. Its not a constant problem it occurs usually every 20 starts. Could the map sensor be the reason why my car is going into limp mode?
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Like the title says....Is is possible to run a Big Turbo with a Side mount Intercooler? Im a not talking about a 600HP kit. More like a kit that can produce something around 350hp.
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i just installed my downpipe and i took it around the block and i opened the hood and there was smoke coming from the turbo could it be b.c i didnt put the washers witht he bolts to connect the dp but i put them on really tight or could it be the wd40 i sprayed on to loosen the bolts?
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Quick q recently just got a gli and I've noticed a knocking sound when accelerating and shifting from stops could this be my motor mounts ? I was thinking my tranny or clutch but everything runs smooth and goes into gear fine
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I just replaced the turbo to manifold gasket and bolts but the but bolt closest to the engine keeps backing out.. i cnt seem to find a tool that can tighten all the way..
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When I drive my car past about 3000 rpms then let them fall i hear an odd sort of vibrating noise coming from the turbo between where ever I rev it up to and about 2600 rpms. Is this normal? Its fairly quiet and can only be heard without the radio on and if your listening for it. This worries me because I've only had this k03 for about 5000 miles .Some background info I am chipped with uni at 20psi, full 3" turbo back and an 007 dv.
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So my 20th runs completely fine until rain is involved.. Once it rains and I bring my rpms high or use my turbo it almost staples out and the gas doesn't work.. Also I notice it shoots out a puff of white smoke and my. Turbo doesn't spool at the way.. It basically tries and just does something like psh psh psh psh like second spools? Could water get in my. Turbo or something.
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I was randomly driving today and my turbo started to sound a little weird.
Every time i accelerate, turn it on or rev it up it sounds like a turbo diesel truck! I have no clue what it could be..
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Engine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
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I have an 04 Gli with 85000 miles on it. I just had the clutch done with a conversion from a dual mass to a single. When the car is idling there is some chatter coming from the tranny but it stops once i press the clutch.
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I have the po411 code, not sure which problem it is but when I first start the car it sounds awful like almost a grinding or rattling noise then stops after a few seconds.
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I just replaced my front brake pads and rotors. Car had no squeaking sounds before this. When changing the right front pads and rotor, the set screw that holds the rotor in place snapped on me when I tried to remove it. I drilled out the remaining screw and inserted an easy out / screw extractor to try to remove the broken screw. Screw wouldn't turn/budge and eventually the easy out snapped in half while trying to turn it. Here is where I fear I made a little problem into an even bigger one; I tried to remove the broken easy out by banging the back end (smaller end) of it with a hammer and screwdriver, hoping it would pop out from the front of the hub. No success, and continued using a lot of force to try to remove it from the rear part of the hub. Eventually I noticed the hub area by the back of the easy out bent a little from me using force from the rear to remove the easy out. I stopped there, bent the hub section back to original shape (didn't bend too much to begin with) and sawzawed off the protruding end of the easy out from behind.
After driving a few times I started noticing the squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel, the sound sounds like is in tune/harmony with the wheel rotation. As soon I step on the brakes, the sound stops. I had a similar sounding problem with a rear wheel a long time ago and it ended up being that the bearing needed adjustment. I know the front bearings are pressed in so they can't be adjusted. I am thinking the force used to try to remove the broken easy out damaged something with the hub or bearing or maybe the axle nut.
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I have recently purchased a GLI and am in the process of resurrecting it. One of the main issues I am having is when I get up on it during acceleration I start to feel a strong pulsing. I have found that it only will do this in hot weather and it does it in every gear. I work at a volkswagen dealership and have asked other technicians if they had any clue and nothing. I am going to have a pressure test done to it to see if it could possibly be an intake problem. Everything on the car is stock and I don't want to upgrade anything until I figure out what this it.
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Start with the basics, no CEL's, car has not cut out while driving and I've only had to attempt cranking up the car twice since I started noticing these issues about 6 months ago.
Symptoms: hesitation/variation in boost during acceleration- doesn't matter if I really get into the gas or just "normal" passing acceleration RPM's steadily climb, but just not as consistent or quickly. Also, the one that really has me really confused. With a 1/4 tank of gas or less, going up a slight incline (overpass); 70-mph-ish... acceleration dies off, rpm's slowly decline, and gas pedal doesn't respond for about 2-3 seconds. Car never shuts off, no CEL's, then everything is fine again! Even does it when I'm using cruise control. Car just rolled 110,000 miles
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I was driving the other day and accelerated in 5th and the car stuttered before finally going- I got the flashing CEL. I figured that the car was misfiring and that a coilpack change was the culprit. All my coilpacks are fine and the sparkplugs look good as well. CEL hasn't come back, but the car just feels like it doesn't want to go right away when if i give it some gas when I'm going about 55-65 MPH.
Other guesses would be there is a fuel cut somewhere and that may be causing it?
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Under heavy acceleration my car surges. I have already put a new stock diverter valve on and no change....I am thinking n75 is next on my shotgun list?
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Here is what happened: I was accelerating one colder morning while driving to work when the power just dropped. Then engine continued to run, but I had no power or acceleration over 3000 rpm. Since that time, that is how the car drives. It starts, runs, etc... but has no power (like rev limiter or something) over 3000 rpm. The turbo spools up fine. I do know my 02 sensors are old. The engine has 184k on it... not bad. Is this a head gasket situation?
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Under acceleration between 65-80 on the highway I get a serious vibration in my steering wheel. I can feel it in the floor of the car too. When I let off the throttle it goes away. I have new tires, wheels, and new axles too. I thought it was the inner cv's but i was wrong. I was thinking possibly motor mounts, but I am not 100% sure. Specs 2004 Jetta GLI, ecs 10mm spacers in the front, coilovers dropped 2 inches, otherwise everything else is stock in the bushing mount department.
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