So I have a bad map sensor and lately my turbos been going in and out of limp mode. I recently just replaced with a new n75 valve and it solved the problem for about a week and now it's acting up again. Its not a constant problem it occurs usually every 20 starts. Could the map sensor be the reason why my car is going into limp mode?
View 4 RepliesHaving trouble with car going into limp mode or just not boosting at all. Tried some basic things to fix it, plugs, coilpacks, tune, none have work.
View 4 RepliesWas driving the other day and one of the couplers came loos and I lost boost and went into limp mode. I pulled over, got it reattached, and after that it would only hit 10 lbs. i have a KO4-001 with the GIAC file and it usually hits 20+ and holds 20 lbs. I have a regular code reader and I had a code for the EBC, cleared it, rechecked the hoses, and verified with the flash loader that I was on the correct file, but it is still only hitting 10 lbs. What else I should check.
View 1 RepliesThere ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
Preliminary info:
APR 93 tune
Carbonio Intake
Silicone TIP
I picked up my 20th today and drove it 4 hours home. It has 74k on it, original timing belt. The timing belt kit is in the mail on its way here. Its the first thing I'm doing.
As I was driving it home on the autobahn doing about 150k/hr and I gave it half throttle to pass, I felt the turbo spool and I accelerated past the car. However, when I went to make the next pass, it felt like I had no power. I feathered the throttle a bit and it felt like my car was only getting maybe 3 PSI of boost. Very little actually. I do not have a boost gauge so I can't really say it accurately. As I was driving, i shut the ignition off and turned it back on. After that, I was able to get full pressure back.
I got a quick question about limp mode. I know this has prolly been covered a few times but I couldn't find anything too similar. Well, to start out my car cannot boost past 3lbs. If i turn the car off and take the terminals off the battery and let it reset for a while, it goes back to normal for a while. After a few times driving it, limp mode comes back on.
The first time this happened, the check engine light came on also. But once I reset the battery it turned off and went back to normal. But it never stays away for good, limp mode always ends up coming back...
I got this car (03 gti 20th a/e) a few months back, and days after taking ownership it started having issues. the one that's still present is related to the boost. Every time I go to accelerate and hit 15-17psi the car sputters, and sounds like a popping noise under the hood..followed by the car going to 5psi for a few seconds, and the engine light flashing (then goes to solid cel).
The car has been scanned for the cel and it had thrown a number of codes-all have been addressed..but still have the same issue!--misfire in #3. I have had a local shop that only works with vw's & audis do all the repairs. we have replaced the coil pack, the spark plugs, and the N249 boost valve. The car is still showing a misfire in #3. What could be the issue? Maybe its the tune?
Wife's Passat went into "limp mode" and will only give me 4th gear. Check engine light came on when it happened. I had a buddy scan the car with OBD scanner and it is saying Sensor A is bad? Which sensor this is, or thought of writing down the code that it was throwing. My guess is the speed sensor for the transmission.
Luckily the car is a W8 and has enough power to pull the car from stop in 4th gear. There aren't any reputable VW dealerships in my town or any neighboring town. I've decided to take the car to a VW/Audi specialist some 60 miles away. They told me they can take a look and replace if needed. I absolutely do not trust VW dealerships/service around here. I've heard nothing but nightmare stories about them.
New to the jetta (used to own Saabs so not new to issues) OK, 2003 jetta 2.0 CEL is on for the CAM Post sensor. Car is in limp mode. has been for a while before I touched the car. I have replaced the Cam post sensor, I replaced the Crank Post sensor, replaced the coil pack, replaced the water pump and the timing belt. I have searched a lot of the other threads before posting this one. Triple checked the timing (3 people did not just me) I replace all the other stuff because I had codes the water pump and the timing belt just because they were due. i had one last code P0343 so when i replaced the WP and the TB i replaced the sensor. Still in limp mode, still have the code i pulled the plug on the Cam post sensor. then i said to my self this car should NOT start. but it did start and i drove it around a little, shut it down and car started up again so I am at a complete loss.
View 8 RepliesI took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
My 20th just hit 107k and in the past couple days I have noticed that my car is somewhat sluggish compared to normal and there is also a VERY audible whine when I take off from a stop.
The same thing happened to my friend's Turbo 300zx when his turbo went out and I think that may be whats happening to mine.
This is the perfect excuse for me to replace my K03 with a more respectable turbo like a K04 hybrid or possibly a BT setup. What I'm wondering is how expensive these options are and how worth it are they. I know you can get away with not upgrading certain things when going BT, but I want to do things right to avoid problems down the road
SO....
I currently have Stage 1 APR software, DG Short shifter, and and itg SRI.
I'm not trying to build a 500hp fwd beast, but what all is considered necessary to run a BT without issues and what would the price be? Again, estimates are totally fine, I can locate parts if i know what to look for
And lastly: What is the general opinion of the ATP Eliminator? I haven't heard much about it and all of my research is fairly inconclusive. I'm just trying to weigh my options.
How hard it is to install a turbo manifold??
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 VW jetta GLI 1.8 turbo and when i get it to about three and a half grand it feels like my turbo is giving out, all acceleration stops. But I doesn't do it all the time, meaning not every time i step on the gas, like I can step on it all through first and second, and it will do it in third or visa-versa. Which leads me to believe that it could be a fuel delivery problem but I don't know, im new to the VW game. The check engine light will come on while the car is bogging down but as soon as the rpms go down it will turn off.
View 1 RepliesLike the title says....Is is possible to run a Big Turbo with a Side mount Intercooler? Im a not talking about a 600HP kit. More like a kit that can produce something around 350hp.
View 8 Repliesi just installed my downpipe and i took it around the block and i opened the hood and there was smoke coming from the turbo could it be b.c i didnt put the washers witht he bolts to connect the dp but i put them on really tight or could it be the wd40 i sprayed on to loosen the bolts?
View 7 RepliesI just replaced the turbo to manifold gasket and bolts but the but bolt closest to the engine keeps backing out.. i cnt seem to find a tool that can tighten all the way..
View 5 RepliesWhen I drive my car past about 3000 rpms then let them fall i hear an odd sort of vibrating noise coming from the turbo between where ever I rev it up to and about 2600 rpms. Is this normal? Its fairly quiet and can only be heard without the radio on and if your listening for it. This worries me because I've only had this k03 for about 5000 miles .Some background info I am chipped with uni at 20psi, full 3" turbo back and an 007 dv.
View 3 RepliesSo my 20th runs completely fine until rain is involved.. Once it rains and I bring my rpms high or use my turbo it almost staples out and the gas doesn't work.. Also I notice it shoots out a puff of white smoke and my. Turbo doesn't spool at the way.. It basically tries and just does something like psh psh psh psh like second spools? Could water get in my. Turbo or something.
View 19 RepliesI was randomly driving today and my turbo started to sound a little weird.
Every time i accelerate, turn it on or rev it up it sounds like a turbo diesel truck! I have no clue what it could be..
Engine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
so my check engine light came on recently and i took my car to a local shop to get it checked out and they told me one of my o2 sensors might be bad and that i should replace it. but because the catalytic converter that i have installed is an aftermarket one(installed before i bought the car used), they told me they were unable to remove the sensor attached because it was welded(?) on or something to that effect and they didnt have the tools to fix it.
so i did some research and found a better shop that deals with catalytic converters and exhaust systems and im thinking of taking my car there to see what they can do BUT, i was just researching online and ive found other posts saying that it may not even be a bad o2 sensor, it could be a different problem but the its just the bad o2 sensor code that comes up and now i dont know what to do.
just wanted to see what everyones opinion is on this subject or if they have gone through this before!