GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Surges At Low And Mid Pedal - ABS / Triangle And Front Brake Pad Lights On
Sep 14, 2014
I have just purchased a VW GTI 337 with 194k on the odometer. The car has a few issues, I have listed the issues by importance. The car came with a stage III ARP turbo kit installed. I just don't know if it's the stage III or stage III+. The car seems to be running okay but it seems like it's lacking the power. Meaning that I should be feeling more. Could it be that car seems to be in some sort of limp mode?
1. The car surges when I am at the low and mid pedal. But, not when I am wide open throttle. Seems like to me that the car is hesitating until I give it a lot of gas. I have changed spark plugs and coils have been replaced by VW dealer for free.
2. ABS light is on and stays on, does not blink just stays on.
3. ASR button will not work. When pressed in it will not light up or show that its activated.
4. Left brake pad or sensor is not plugged in because it's missing the connection. Looks like someone cut it off for some sort of reason.
5. A light that has a triangle with a circle surrounding it, is on. The light is in the cluster.
6. The front brake pads light is on, this is also in the cluster.
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I'm on my way out and someone on the road just told me that my brake lights are both out. My rear running lights do work. Is this a fuse problem? What is the number where this fuse is located?
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I'm aware that this is a common issue for the MK4 and I'm looking for some closure on what the exact issue could be. Whenever I drive my car on a bumpier back road I feel like the car is sputtering and surging whenever I hit a bump and it's very noticeable with the exhaust on my car. Once on the highway the car lost all power for about 3 seconds and then it started working again. I think it might be the coil packs or the fuel pump but I don't want to buy things the car doesn't need. Where to start?
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Having trouble with front brake pads rattling? About a month ago, I replaced pads - rotors - caliper pins on my 20th GLI. I know these cars ride a bit stiff but it sounds like my front end is about to fall off. All brake parts were torqued to spec - I've gone through all T25/T30 torx front end screws etc and I just can't find the rattle??? This has only started within the last few days. Any other places to check for obvious loose bolts etc?
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After euro switch is installed on mk4 gli, the parking lights still remain on with the front fogs.The switch would be in the middle position. So the DRL's are off and just the parking lights are on until the switch is pulled out into position 1. Then the fogs come on and pulling out into position 2, turns the rear fogs on.
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I noticed this strange behavior this afternoon on my SantaFe DM. Every time I press the break pedal, the front position lights turn on during daylight. Light switch is set on Auto.
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Can't manage to get it back on. Who knows the trick?
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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We were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
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Car ran perfectly normal. come back out start the car, the EPC light comes on, and my gas pedal doesn't work. Doesn't do a THING...first 3 times i killed it and re-started it, the rpms shot up to 4500 for a second then fell to around 1100 and stayed there. now i start it and it just hangs at 1100. car has 47k miles on it, a 3in DP 2.5in magnaflow catback, short ram intake, TIP, 710N DV, stock N75. Only thing I can think of is TPS but I don't have access to a vag com.
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Noticed the other day my clutch pedal trim is coming off... What did you do to fix it?
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I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
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I just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
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When I Accelerate It almost feels like I am fluttering the gas pedal. Its weird on my car now I have revo stage 2, a TIP, 42DD TBE, 4bar FPR.. Do I need to buy a race n75 vavle ?
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So last night I was driving home from work, and at a red light while i was waiting to go i had my clutch down when light turned green i tried to go and noticed i could not put it in gear and that my clutch pedal was stuck in place. i didn't know what to do so I checked my shifter plate everything looked fine so went to look at the pedal and i pulled it forward and it came lose. I started it up everything was fine and back to order. This morning going to work same thing happened again, I don't know what is going on and what could be the cause?
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My 20th Ann. Is jerking under acceleration. When I hit the gas pedal slightly hard it starts jerking. Every once in a while the CEL will flash on and off. I changed the spark plugs and coil packs, cleaned the MAF, and now I have no real direction where to go. Maybe it could be a vaccum problem...
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Coming to a stop, clutch pedal just lost all pressure. I can bring it back up, but even the slightest touch will send it to the floor again. I get the brake warning light on the dash. What could be causing this?
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My clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
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I find that the Rubber stock ones are not grippy enough. I have used the turner motorsport ones on my bmw but not sure if they will retro-fit on my 337.
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I have an Imola 20th and recently i have been having some problems with my clutch. The pedal goes from being soft to very hard when its close to disengaging. It also engages very heavily when I go to let it out. This only started happening recently when temperatures started to drop if this has any effect on a clutch. Also, I replaced a shift fork two months ago and was curious if there was possibly anything going on with seals around the slave cylinder.
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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