GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Starter Is Ruined Due To Extreme Weather?
Jan 11, 2010
Ok so first of all my car started perfect everyday but i live in Boca Raton FL so it is normally very hot but the past few days it has gotten rather cold for FL like 30ish...So my question is...is it possible that my starter endured such extreme different weather changes that it ruined it or could it be that it has been too cold for the starter to work two nights ago it didnt work and also this morning but it started warming up again and it took a while seconds but it started but very bad??? could it be it just has to warm up again and it will be fine? or do i need a new starter..
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So yesterday I drove to my friends house b4 work. My car started up just fine no problem. I was at his house for maybe an hour and as I was going to leave I tried to start my car and it was dead? All my lights work got a jump. Still nothing so today I took my starter off and had it tested( fail). Paid for a new one and put it back on. Hooked everything up. Went really smooth. But went to start it and it won't engage the flywheel? Am I missing something?
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So I did a couple searches and found a couple MK3's with this issue however I did not find anything for the MK4.
The last couple days, we have been over 90 degrees in the afternoon. My black 03 20th 1.8t sits on the side of the road at work in the direct sun from 12:30 (lunch) until 5pm when I get off.
The last 2 days, when I have gone to start it, it cranks and cranks for 5-8 seconds before it starts to catch and finally stumbles to life. Once its running, everything feels fine. If I turn the car off and restart it, it starts fine.
In the mornings in the garage, evenings when its cooler or leaving for lunch before the day has gotten really hot, it starts fine. It only seems to be affected after sitting in the direct afternoon heat for a few hours.
I have read vapor lock, dying crank position sensor, ignition issues, starter etc. I am going to rule out the starter as the car cranks like normal. It simply does not fire.
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A few weeks ago, my battery died, got a new one, ran fine for a week. Then wanted to go to work a a few days ago, turn the key and heard nothing, took the starter out, got a new one and put it in (used-but I took it apart and it looked fine) Once I put that in was excited to have my car back, but same thing, not even a sound coming from the starter, doesn't even try. Thought it might be a fuse problem, checked everyone that might have to do with the engine...and they all looked fine.
Something with the relays perhaps? I haven't checked those yet. A ground issue? I'm so lost right now.
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My Jetta has been throwing this code on and off for over a year now. It used to only come on when it was really cold with wet roads. Now the code will randomly come on in any weather. I usually just clear it but it's coming on to often now. I don't notice any performance issues or gas mileage problems.
Scan shows : Trouble Code - P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
I've been reading and apparently 1.8t engines only have One bank? I'm assuming this the the front 02 sensor throwing this but not sure?
I have an aftermarket exhaust/high flow cat. Apparently this can be caused by a high flow after market catalytic converter and one solution is to use a test pipe or spacer to move the rear O2 sensor further from the exhaust gas flow. But I'm not sure this is the issue since I think it's my front sensor throwing the code? That's not by the Cat is it? I just don't want to have the sensor replaced to have the code still come up.
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It's been extremely cold in the northeast recently (<20 degrees), and I've noticed that my suspension has been very noisy (clunking type noises) when I'm driving on uneven roads or bumps. Is this normal? Is there something I can do to alleviate it?
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When I purchased my car last year I ordered it with the remote starter. It works great unless the weather is 12 degrees or colder, then it will not start the car. This morning I tried to remote start, it started it for 2 seconds then shut off, I did it again with the same result. I then went out and physically started the car and went back inside only to go out 15 minutes later to find the car stopped running but the radio was still playing. I then restarted the car and again went back inside 15 minutes later the car this time it was still running and was just starting to melt the ice on the windows. I have had issues in the past with the remote starter not working but today I actually went to the door and listened to what it was doing.
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95 1.9L 5 speed. 142K Runs like a champ but over the last few colder mornings, low 40's high 30's, the starter is slow to get turning. This morning it was really slow, as I held the switch to the crank position for a good 10-15 seconds before it started. To the point that the dash lights dimmed, like a larger load was on the battery. Once it starts its fine. Later in the day it starts just like it should. Just wondering if I may have a starter about to go south on me.
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Truck is an extended cab, 8' box, 4x4
This truck has begun to not start in cold weather. No click of the solenoid, no starter movement. Dash lights all work, heater, wipers, etc. I put a space heater in the cab, on the drivers side floor board, warmed it up and then it would start.
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So last friday (20th) I got my the APR stage 1 tune put on my car at NGP Aberdeen. On my way out of the shop I started having symptoms that resembled a fouled plug. At the two stop signs I came to my car died.
I turned back to have the fellas at NGP investigate problem. About 20 minutes later the tech that had been problem shooting my issue told me that a boost pipe with a quick connector blew itself off. Something that he had never seen before. I'm on my way home this afternoon and I start getting the same feeling (lack of power and slight bucking/misfiring feeling) I had last week.
It got dark outside before I could take a look, so I'm curious what you all think. Could it be this mysterious boost pipe? If so which one do you think it may be (I already checked the one that goes into the "stage II" pipe, and that one is connected). Also, any thoughts on how to make the quick connector stay with my increased boost? Otherwise, what are the symptoms of a ruined DV?
Current Mods: APR Stg I intake, APR Stg I flash (running 93 oct right now), no other engine mods.
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
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I was following the directions on the APR site to remove the ECU and it seems to not make sense. Saying the ECU is on the passenger side underneath the molding....
is the ECU in the center?
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I've had the leak for a long time now possibly from when I've gotten it... anyway when I first bought it I drove it a lot, like 8k miles in 6 months. During that time I went through a qt of oil about every week and a half. Now the last 3 months I've been barely driving it due to life changes so I'm barely putting oil in I'll go weeks sometimes of checking the level and it'll be fine. This leak has to relate with how often its driven and maybe hot?
I've had the car up multiple times to try and find the spot all I know is it's behind the engine below the valve cover gasket and above or near the turbo area(I've only owned my first VW this 20th for less then a yr so I'm still learning)
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I get up to go to work today and the car runs fine, a few hours later i get back in, try to put it in reverse, and nothing.. it wont let me shift in after i push it down. So i push it back in neutral and drive away.. every gear works fine, when i got home i took off the boot, tried to see if anything was loose, shake it a few times and out of nowhere first and second give. They were working perfectly 5 min before, and now they just feel really loose, but every other gear works fine, so now I have no reverse, 1st or 2nd. Did I just knock something out of alignment or is the problem a lot worse.
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I recently took out my headliner And my passenger's side seat. When I put everything back together, I turned the car on and the light came on. What can be the issue?
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After I got gas yesterday I drove about 10miles and the CEL light came on. The gas cap seemed a little loose so I am assuming it is that until I get it scanned soon. I was just wondering how long is stayed on if it wasn't cleared, I know some cars take a few days.
Does euroswitch installed have a problem with the audible headlights-are-still-on tone? If I leave my lights on, and exit the car no sound will sound. If I open it back up, then it will make a sound. Pretty useless.
Also, still looking on the best length for the Thule wind fairing for stock votex racks?
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So I just changed the valve cover fast but I am still getting oil onto the hood of my car. It did this before I changed the gasket as well. Is my valve cover bent maybe?
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Ok first lemme start I have a 20th with 76,000 miles chipped. I was driving down my street and the car julted a little, didn't think it was much, kept driving the check engine light turned on and the engine sounded like it was hesitating and I lost alot of power. Also it sounds like a Subaru. I haven't yet changed my coils so I'm thinking that's what it is.
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