So it seams to have a sputter around 2500 to about 3500. When it should be boosting I am guessing. Engine Lite flashes then goes out for catalytic efficiency. Cleared codes but always comes back thoughts are cat or o2 problems. Minor mods downpipe, exhaust, and bypass valve. And Fuel mileage gone down quite a bit.
View 2 RepliesSo I replaced my turbo about 2 years ago give or take and maybe 15-20k miles on it since. The last few weeks my car has been running some what weird so i decided to bring it to the shop. The guy thinks its my turbo but its hard for me to believe. Here are the symptoms it was having..
1) Lose of power
2) When I was on the high way i would floor it and it just wouldn't go. It would accelerate after 60 mph and it would almost be at a stand still. A few times it almost lost power completely and i had the pedal to the ground and it was decelerating.
3) When I would drive the car would sputter and jerk like almost it wasn't getting gas.
4) After a overnight where it was shut off, the next day i would go turn it on and it would barely turn over and it would be rough for a few seconds.
5) The exhuast/muffler after accelerating would pop
6) I don't hear my turbo spooling as loud and as much as it use to.
Could this be some sort of sensor or even the fuel pump? I feel that it wouldn't have some of these issues if it was the turbo compared to something else.
When I hit the gas and my turbo reached high boost (15 psi and up), it would slightly sputter and make an odd sound. I even noticed my exhaust made a different exhaust note than usual. While it sputtered the CEL began flashing. I then drove it normally (not high boost) all the way home and it drove completely fine. I'm gonna try and get my codes checked tomorrow.
View 9 RepliesDon't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
View 7 RepliesMy 1.8t motor is still ticking around 2500-3500rpm. I have changed the oil with 5w-40 mobil1 no even 75 miles on oil change, Brand new oil pump with tensioner and chain. oil pick up tube cleaned and good. new plugs about 75 miles on them as well. Always ran 93 octane (highest I can get at my gas station) Only thing left that I can think of is my cam tensioner is bad.
When I accelerate up to speed it starts ticking but as soon as I let off the throttle it will stop get back on the gas it starts again.
Stockish 2000 gti 1.8t 5 speed. short ram intake.
Is there a way to tell if the cam tensioner is bad? .
Recently had an aftermarket turbo back exhaust system installed. After driving for a short while, I noticed that between 2500 and 3500 RPMs the noise was very loud. Once I hit the highway (in which the engine almost exclusively hangs around those numbers), it was almost unbearable to sit in the car while having that constant droning sound. I have had and been in cars with aftermarket exhaust systems before and never heard anything quite like this. It is pretty tame below 2500 and once you hit 4000, it sounds quite nice and that horrible drone goes away. I really trust the shop that did the work, so I doubt it was faulty install. Could it be a faulty design or maybe just the one that I received?
This exhaust is from a reputable maker and they designed this system specifically for the Golf R. I did have some other mods done at the same time (Coilovers, Engine Mount Insert, Intake and a Tune). I know the insert may cause a little bit of vibration and hence a little bit of extra noise, but nothing like this. While driving on the highway at 3000 RPMs, I cannot even clearly see the cars behind me through the rear windshield as there is so much vibration from all the noise.
Forgot to mention, this TBE is resonated with a CAT, so even more reason for concern. Would expect it to be quiet by comparison to a CAT-less non-resonated system
So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
View 8 RepliesI was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
View 12 RepliesDriving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
View 24 RepliesI was following the directions on the APR site to remove the ECU and it seems to not make sense. Saying the ECU is on the passenger side underneath the molding....
is the ECU in the center?
I've had the leak for a long time now possibly from when I've gotten it... anyway when I first bought it I drove it a lot, like 8k miles in 6 months. During that time I went through a qt of oil about every week and a half. Now the last 3 months I've been barely driving it due to life changes so I'm barely putting oil in I'll go weeks sometimes of checking the level and it'll be fine. This leak has to relate with how often its driven and maybe hot?
I've had the car up multiple times to try and find the spot all I know is it's behind the engine below the valve cover gasket and above or near the turbo area(I've only owned my first VW this 20th for less then a yr so I'm still learning)
I get up to go to work today and the car runs fine, a few hours later i get back in, try to put it in reverse, and nothing.. it wont let me shift in after i push it down. So i push it back in neutral and drive away.. every gear works fine, when i got home i took off the boot, tried to see if anything was loose, shake it a few times and out of nowhere first and second give. They were working perfectly 5 min before, and now they just feel really loose, but every other gear works fine, so now I have no reverse, 1st or 2nd. Did I just knock something out of alignment or is the problem a lot worse.
View 3 RepliesI recently took out my headliner And my passenger's side seat. When I put everything back together, I turned the car on and the light came on. What can be the issue?
View 10 RepliesAfter I got gas yesterday I drove about 10miles and the CEL light came on. The gas cap seemed a little loose so I am assuming it is that until I get it scanned soon. I was just wondering how long is stayed on if it wasn't cleared, I know some cars take a few days.
Does euroswitch installed have a problem with the audible headlights-are-still-on tone? If I leave my lights on, and exit the car no sound will sound. If I open it back up, then it will make a sound. Pretty useless.
Also, still looking on the best length for the Thule wind fairing for stock votex racks?
So I just changed the valve cover fast but I am still getting oil onto the hood of my car. It did this before I changed the gasket as well. Is my valve cover bent maybe?
View 7 RepliesOk first lemme start I have a 20th with 76,000 miles chipped. I was driving down my street and the car julted a little, didn't think it was much, kept driving the check engine light turned on and the engine sounded like it was hesitating and I lost alot of power. Also it sounds like a Subaru. I haven't yet changed my coils so I'm thinking that's what it is.
View 3 Repliesso my check engine light came on recently and i took my car to a local shop to get it checked out and they told me one of my o2 sensors might be bad and that i should replace it. but because the catalytic converter that i have installed is an aftermarket one(installed before i bought the car used), they told me they were unable to remove the sensor attached because it was welded(?) on or something to that effect and they didnt have the tools to fix it.
so i did some research and found a better shop that deals with catalytic converters and exhaust systems and im thinking of taking my car there to see what they can do BUT, i was just researching online and ive found other posts saying that it may not even be a bad o2 sensor, it could be a different problem but the its just the bad o2 sensor code that comes up and now i dont know what to do.
just wanted to see what everyones opinion is on this subject or if they have gone through this before!
I am trying to put a exhaust cut out on my car, I am trying to put it right before the cat. Looking for pics?
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