GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Secondary Air Pump Whistles At Cold Start
Aug 3, 2009
Have a little oil on the outer part of the turbo and its making a raspy noise when my turbo is spoiled not sure whats going on the car pulls just as hard and boost levels are normal i had a check engine light on for a few days right after this started code was for p0411 dont think its related cause i know my secondary air pump whistles at cold start so im assuming that the code is for that and not related to the turbo.
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I have a question? I have had my car parked for about 2 1/2 months and I just started it this weekend and I've always noticed on our cars when we start them in the morning I think it's the secondary air pump that turns on, it sounds like a blow dryer.. It only stays on for about 10 seconds maybe. Cause when I started my car this weekend I didn't hear come on.
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I've got a 2004 1.8T 4motion passat and when it starts cold in the morning it makes a loud noise for a minute or so then it stops and is normal again, I'vev been told by a local autoparts store that it is possibly the auxiliary/secondary air pump that needs to be changed to fix this poblem. if it is the air pump how hard is it to change and do u need any special tooling to do it or is it fairly straight forward to change?
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I just threw a check engine light saying that there was increased air flow in the secondary air system...what does that mean????
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Ok, car won't start. fuel pump not priming. tested the fuse, no power coming to it, fuse is good. even used another fuse. my flex connection on my dp blew out, rusty had a leak there for a while. in any case patched it up McGyver style till a new dp arrives. I backed the car off the ramps and shut it off to clean up. when I went to test drive it fuel pump wasn't priming.
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Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 76
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 RN
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 07510
Shop #: WSC 00066
3VWSE69M14M129075 VWZ7Z0D9541648
1 Fault Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0000 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180 G
Component: RADIO 3CP 0007
Coding: 00031
Shop #: WSC 00066
1 Fault Found:
00856 - Radio Antenna
36-00 - Open Circuit
End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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I get EPC and ASR upon cold start from time to time. Usually EPC goes away if I restart in a couple of minutes. ASR goes away after a while and restart.
So after car warms up and restarted, everything seems fine.
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Revo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
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Recently purchased a 2005 Jetta GLI with 31,xxx miles on it. It is my second 1.8T. My first was very reliable, with never any issues even after the 100k mile mark and is the reason I didn't hesitate to buy another one. That, and the Recaro Edition GLI has always been one of my favorite cars.
So I've had it for about a month now and I've noticed on occasion a problem with cold starting. One weekend it sat for almost two days because we used our other car, and then again this morning it was particularly chilly here in Pittsburgh, about 35degrees F and it took me two starts to get it going.
I always turn the key to 'on' for a few seconds and let the fuel pressurize and all the indicators light up. It doesn't appear to be the battery as it turns over strong, though I have not yet confirmed this is a Voltage reading. Once it kicks over, it seems to be choking or sputtering, unable to get up to idle. The second time, it does it again but gets past it and all is well...
I'm checking records now to see if the 30k mile service was completed. perhaps a tune up and new plugs would work?
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just noticed when i cold start my car the turbo makes a whistle noise until it warms up and when i drive hard when its spoiled it makes that whistle again......
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Alright, so upon starting my car earlier today, i was unable to get the fuel pump to turn on and send fuel to the motor, car will crank over and want to start, theres just no fuel getting to it. I'm going to replace the fuel pump relay and clean up the throttle body to cover the simple stuff. also i recently just installed a 3 inch down pipe, could have the o2 sensors shorted as a result of a bad knock?
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my water pump broke they other day and then i was lifting up my seat and notcie it was wet. the whole left side of my car under the carpet is wet. why do you think there is water is only on th eleft side. could it be becuase the water pump broke??
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I replaced my timing belt, tensioner and water pump last weekend because I noticed I was leaking coolant from the water pump. The other day I popped my hood after driving and notice the reservoir bubbling a little bit because it sounded like the coolant was boiling and the line coming into the top of the reservoir felt hotter than normal. I opened the cap slowly and never heard any pressure release. I figured it was air in the line somewhere so I tried to work the air out. It sounded like the air came out and I took it for a drive and I finally heard pressure release after 3 different attempts. I opened the cap later when it was cool and noticed that the coolant was still at the original level.
Then the next day I was driving and came to a stop and noticed white smoke coming out when I gave it gas. It still drove fine though. I pulled over and opened the cap slowly but didn't hear any pressure release. I put in a little bit of radiator sealant and it seemed to do the trick.
The car has never overheated and there's no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. The heat also seems to be working correctly and my fans come.
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Just want to make sure I'm naming the part correctly. It's a pump that between the radiator and the block. It stays on after the car is turned off. This is on a 2005 GLI 5 speed tip.
Lately, its not turning on. If it does, it's just for a brief moment and then turns off. After some searching, I've read post of other asking about by-passing it. Would that be a benefit? What's gained from that? I understand the pump is on while the engine is running, does it provide additional cooling? I'm planning on checking it out this weekend and wondering if it could be rebuilt? Could you guys indicate which vendor on the web has the best price?
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I have a mkiv gli. With 41k miles on it. And when I turn my wheels either way it makes a loud strenuous noise that seems like my power steering cause its only noisy when I turn.
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The A/C hasn't been working for a month now, won't blow cold air. Took it to the shop and they put 1.5 pounds of freon in it. But it still won't blow cold. I'm taking a 1200 mile trip in it soon and the shop isn't an option. There's no leak as of now. What to do?
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Got some issues going from first to second when the car is cold. Kinda feels like it grinds not sure if it is or not. When it warms up seems ok. Changed the fluid, smoother but kinda worries me.
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Have 66,000 on the clock. AC has blown cold since i have had the car, and yesterday quits blowing cold, summer is right around the corner.
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so another winter has come to me in michigan and i had to take off my nice performance tires and put on the winter steelies. but as i come to now with them on, my ESp light has come on, on my dash and wont turn off even if i reset the car. i havent checked the VAGCOM yet cause that laptop is at my parents. the tires are the same i used last year and didnt have this happen either. any thoughts on this and what could be wrong? haveing no traction control in the winter is not cool to have in my book.
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It all started after it being cold outside it's hard to shift into second gear when i first start up the car, and then after a couple shifts like that i get a notchy shift. after a while of driving it all disappears.
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Here's my issue: as it gets colder out, I ride with the windows up, so all the little squeaks and creaks get that much more noticeable.
Ones in particular that drive me nuts are the squeaks that originate from the rear deck area (almost as if they are coming from the rear upper shock mounts between the C-pillars - I think this is a Jetta-only issue). I had a c-pillar bar in the past and it seemed... but the bar is a tad unsightly, and it rendered my rear seat belts useless.
Need finding and eliminating these noises in the back? I'd rather not run one of those bars again if at all possible.
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