GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Rpm And Speed Gauges Get Stuck
May 16, 2013
Happened first yesterday. The rpm and speed gauges get stuck at the 10 o'clock position. Seems all the lights come on. I can accelerate for a bit but the car just putts and then turns off. After that i try to start the car and nothing. If i take the ground of the battery for 10 min (ecu reset?) the car starts right up but any sooner and it wont start. I have APR stage 1 flash, cat back exhaust, drop in filter, forge hybrid valve, and Boost gauge.
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So my girlfriend drives my car to work and today she called me and said that the instrument panel isn't working. No gas gauge, odometer, tach, or anything!
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Weirdest thing happened this morning. I went to start the car and the horn was immediately on. I figured maybe the steering wheel was stuck. Anyways it went for a bit then while I was on the highway it came on and stayed on. People were looking while I'm going 60mph with the horn blasting. Anyways it went off on its own. I checked the fuse today and it is blown. I no longer have a horn. Why this happened? I will take the steering wheel off tomorrow to check the grounds.
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I parked the car yesterday and everything was working fine. I go out this morning to go to work and i cannot get the car to go into reverse. I put it in neutral and attempted to push it out of my parking spot, but when I took my foot off the clutch, it stalled like it was still in gear even though the stick was in the neutral position. While still in the neutral position, i can still move forward as if it were in first. When i put it in reverse and attempt to move, i get no movement. I can get it to move forward, but it refuses to go into reverse. I have no diagnostic lights illuminated and the car has no issues running or starting.
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50k Miles on my clutch. Was driving a couple weeks ago on the highway and clutch stuck to the floor. At first I thought it was my Slave cylinder. Got the trans out this weekend to find the mess (below) inside my bell housing. Obviously need a new clutch now and will still replace the slave while I am in there.
Cars setup is around 375ish whp. I know I could spend 1300 bucks and call it a day for a clutch master or south bend but was seeing if there is a cheaper alternative.
Also If I were to buy an OEM clutch or an upgraded one that was not rated for up to 400~whp would it drive and pull the same as a fully upgraded one just not last as long?
6 Speed ...
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So last night I was driving home from work, and at a red light while i was waiting to go i had my clutch down when light turned green i tried to go and noticed i could not put it in gear and that my clutch pedal was stuck in place. i didn't know what to do so I checked my shifter plate everything looked fine so went to look at the pedal and i pulled it forward and it came lose. I started it up everything was fine and back to order. This morning going to work same thing happened again, I don't know what is going on and what could be the cause?
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Well, like the title says, The trans is stuck in third gear, with no other gears, or neutral or reverse. The car is slightly modified 02 GTI 337. APR Chip, Forge TIP, Full 3" exhaust, Greddy FMIC. I definitely drive the car, and had been beating up on it on the highway for a little on my way in to work, then on the way home, down shifted to pass someone, dropped it third, passed them, went to shift to fourth, Shifter moved, felt like it engaged "a gear" and then then i let off the clutch and it was still in third.
I also noticed that unless, I press the clutch in the, the car stays in this gear, even when the shifter is in neutral. I looked at the linkage, and it appears to be functioning. I did some reading around the Vortex and it seems like this might be a shift fork problem. Also, if the trans will be apart, what items should be upgraded?
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Yeah it was stuck in the "up" position, just running forever. Turn the car off and just keep running. So I took it apart and un-plugged it.
I plan on swapping it for the drivers and see if it follows the mirror motor. Yeah, I been getting dead battery and this is why.
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Changing the oil in my friends gli tonight and the drain plug ended up becoming stuck in the oil pan hole, just spinning in both directions and not tightening or loosening. He has the hybrid oil pan, and we took the bottom steel part off, do they sell just that part so I could fix the stripped drain hole, or should I try and salvage the one I have now and rethread the hole with a bigger drain plug?
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If the car is moving, the transmission feels like it doesn't want to let you shift into first (even with the clutch all the way in) until you've slowed down considerably. it grinds if the clutch is all the way in and i try to put it into 1st at about 30 mph, for example.
I always thought that it was probably a safety feature so you don't try to get into such a steep gear at that speed. i guess I'm just trying to make sure of that, because I've never researched it before. What I'm starting to notice now (or maybe its in my head) is that the trans is being real particular about me having the clutch pushed in all the way _to the floor_, something that it something that it tends to give me a bit more slack with the other gears.
For example shifting 2nd to 3rd, i can usually have the clutch pedal about an inch off the floor and it will still shift. is this a sign of clutch wear? it's got over 100K miles on it of mostly granny shifting.
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Title pretty much states it. A while back both my ABS and my ESP light would come on after I reached a speed of 18mph. After some research here I figured it was just a dirty sensor. So I cleaned the front ones and still haven't got around to the rear, but I told my mechanic to scan it. He says I need a new ABS pump which I am hoping, he is wrong. Printout says...
01276-ABS Hydraulic Pump(V64)
008-Implausible Signal - Intermittent
008-Implausible Signal - Intermittent
So I am hoping it is just dirty or unplugged and not the ABS pump.
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When I hit 32 mph my car beeps once and it displays "32 mph exceeded" and if i go 30 then pick up to 35 it will warn me again and beep, basically every time i pass 32 mph it beeps so its starting to get annoying and i played with the setting but cant seem to figure out how to turn this off?
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To say the least, I had a long winter. First I bent two of my RC's with potholes and blasted my power steering rack with some more potholes. So now I have brand new set of rims, a new steering rack and also when i did the steering rack, i threw some new ball joints on. I am still experiencing a "shimmy" in the steering wheel at higher speeds. What would be the next logical step to check out what could be causing this? Maybe control arm bushings?
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I drive an 05 Gli n my car has been shutting off on me took it for a diagnostic n the code po322 came up engine speed sensor. So my question is. Is their a DIY on replacing the sensor I'm picking it up tomorrow. To be honest I don't even know where the sensor is located...
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So I was driving on the HWY in 6th gear cruising at about 60, and I go to speed up and when my RPMS hit about 3k or over it feels like I am pressing in the clutch, like my RPMS are going up but I am hardly gaining any speed.
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Happened on my mk6 now on the 20th! When I go to hit the switch for the gas tank release it is completely silent. Could that be the module? Half a tank left so not to worried about bringing it somewhere.
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My 20th Ann. GTI randomly would not go into first or second (they move into place but are just limp there and not catching into the gear) I was told for replacement of new 6-speed transmission and they did not offer any alternatives beside replacing it completely.
I know there is a thread talking about this but I read about the shift fork, or a piece of the shift fork that breaks and this problem fits my exact description. Not much info on what I can do, or at least not specified. What is any cost effective way to get my gears back without completely replacing the transmission? Is there anything I can do to just replace a broken part or are there any alternatives?
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I got an 04 GLI ... When I'm driving at about 60 mph, and I apply the brakes lightly, i get a vibration in the steering wheel. it doesn't happen under heavy breaking, just when i press the pedal down lightly to slow down, and there is NO pulsation in the pedal at all during any time.
Some history of the car:
Just did pads and rotors 2 weeks ago,
car has spacers, hub centring.. the problem occurs with out the spacers also.
had an alignment a month ago.
had tires balanced 2 months ago
tires are 2 months old.
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Middle of May, I went to Boston. On the way there, I started to notice a slight whirring noise that was only present when I gently feathered the gas to maintain highway speed. If I were to apply any more throttle, the noise would go away, and if I were to pull my foot away and allow engine braking, it would also disappear.
So I did my best to finish the trip to and from Boston adjusting my driving to avoid the noise. Once I came home, I researched and thought the noise might have been my wheel bearings (I had just replaced lower control arms, lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods prior to leaving for Boston). I also had a shop install my upper strut mount bearings and bushings simultaneously with the wheel bearings.
Since then, the problem still continues. It has grown louder, but still occurs under the same situations. I've focused more on it and here are the conditions under which it occurs:
1. Car must be warmed up. Starting it up cold and allowing SAI to run then driving, car is fine, no sounds. Usually takes 20-25 mins of driving to get it to start making noise.
2. Car still only makes the noise when the gas is being feathered (ie barely pressing it enough to give it any sort of throttle. It does also make the noise between shifts when reengaging the gear and applying gas, as the throttle pedal passes the point of throttle off to throttle on.
3. I'm hearing more noise now during engine braking than I had been previously. Could be related?
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Ok my 2002 337 has 87,600 miles on it and for quite a while now its been making a lot of font end noise, its most noticeable at 25-30 MPH, decelerating or holding a steady speed, it disappears when your accelerating hard, and at high speeds. But the noise is horrible, its like a buffeting
Its been serviced regularly, since the noise I've done, new front brake rotors, new pads, wheel bearings, inner and outer CV boots replaced, CV joint checked. My local mechanic who's done a lot of work for me isn't sure what to think, he said try rotating the tires because it may be tire noice on the road? Im running some generic tires, the brand on the tire says "sunny" but they appear to be a good performance tire, and handle well
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I have an Accent 2005 model with problem (speedometer) not working at all... All gauges are stuck (RPM, Speed, Fuel & Temp) also no mileage digits appear. I already check fuse. I remove speedometer cables and connect it again, also clean it and change the bulbs but still same...
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