Ok so i have a bmp gli with 71000 miles. Im extremely conservative while driving to but i noticed when I am going around 25 to 30 miles per hour i hear a repetitive thumping noise. It only happens during this speed and his been this way for a while now. I am kind of ocd with my car and the noise is starting to get to me. What it may be.
View 2 RepliesI've been fighting with this noise for probably about 4 months now. I've replaced my strut mounts and strut bearings thinking they were shot, but this didn't even begin to stop the noise. I seem to be hearing it whenever the weight of the car is shifted. The best way to describe the noise is a tapping or high pitched thumping. It's definitely coming from the right corner of the car. Also, I have been hearing a grinding noise from that side when turning the wheel sharply to the left.
I was thinking this was because my brakes needed to be changed and the indicators were scrapping whenever I turned the wheels. I work full time and go to school, so I don't have a lot of time to figure out what's going on. That's why I'm posting here, so I can maybe get some insight before I have time to look at it this weekend. By the way, I have jacked the car up and shook the wheel to check the ball joint and wheel bearing. The wheel was very tight and I didn't feel any play at all.
My 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.
View 2 RepliesWe have had our 2010 with 20k miles for about 3 weeks now. I can honestly say that I can't remember being more disappointed in car. Specifically, the road and wind noise above 60 miles an hour can at times be unbearable. The Prius makes the inside of my 14 year old BMW sound like a Lexus.
I thought it might be the tires since the originals were worn. We had an unrepairable leak in one tire so we went ahead and put brand new Michelins on the car. There was only a minor improvement in noise.
Is it possible to change the MFA reading to metric? My car is from the US and wanted it to read in kms??? Looked in the manual couldnt find anything....
View 1 RepliesSo the long story short, i bought a JB 20th with 36k miles on it, lowered on Neuspeed Race Springs and HD Koni Struts. When bought, both inner CV boots were torn on the car. I ordered OEM CV boot repair kits for all four joints (made by Rein OEM manufacturer) and rebuild the axles completely.
I got the car up in the air today and the drivers side inner CV boot is already torn, after only a few hundred miles (if that many).
From what i understand, it is a common problem on the O2M 1.8T setups after lowering? Is there a solution?
I searched around, but it is still not clear what is the source of it, even though i found plenty of threads that state that its a common problem.
Upon inspection, the geometry of the axle or the angle at which it operates when the car is on the ground does not look that bad, it simply does not make sense.
I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 tundra v8 4.7 liters. Will not go past 90 miles per hour.I'm not a speed person but I like to know my truck is in top shape.Odo reads 99073 on the i way I tried pushing it to a 100 mph but it not go, what's happening to my truck...
View 6 RepliesI got my v-8 12-22-03, very pleased. however at exactly 53 miles per hour and higher a high pitched whistling comes from the right side of the sunroof, whether open or closed. The dealer is perplexed and stumped. Sticking my head out at 55 miles an hour is fun (very dog like and my son was driving) but no way you can hear anything and pinpoint the noise. It does not appear to be the roof rack which is properly installed and both in the rear. In the words of the teacher in ferris bueller..
View 8 RepliesI have a question regarding my shaking car (Toyota Avensis Diesel 2.0 1999) while accelerating.
The shaking occurs when I accelerate, especially within the range of 45-75 miles per hour (70-120km/h). It's at it's worst around 60 mph. Whenever I release the gas pedal it stops. It also stops whenever I go faster than 75 mph. When I drive at a constant speed between 45-75 mph, the car stills shakes, but a bit less than when I accelerate. It doesn't seem like there is any specific location from where the shaking originates. It's all over, but there's no shaking of the steering wheel itself. The tyres are ok. After some suggestions I recently put some injection cleaner into a full tank, but with no results.
I have a 2006 Camry with a steering vibration at 60-65 miles per hour. I have looked at all of the Threads for similar problems but everyone is guessing at the cause....stating "Check the alignment, check tire pressures, check the wheel balance, check the wheel bearings."
I have checked all of these things to the best of my ability and there does not seem to be a problem there. I bought new tires and had the front end aligned. Vibration still there. Had tires balanced 3 different times. VIBRATION STILL THERE. Removed wheels and inspected all suspension parts. No obvious problem seen. Switched tires front to back then left to right then front to back again. VIBRATION STILL THERE.
Forgot to mention that the right front is wearing on the inside but the alignment checks out. I had the alignment re-checked at the tire dealer and then checked it myself later in the month using toe plates that we have in the shop for our SCCA ITB Club Racer. Is there a Recall that I am not aware of ?????
My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 b6 it has a thump/vibration at 22 to 24 miles an hour. This may sound crazy but when you live in the city its awful! VW has replaced the transmission, both front axles and wheel bearings all around the car they have put the headphones on the car and cannot find the thump. The breaks have also been replaced rotors and pads.
View 8 RepliesA mouse in my engine bay? No, not exactly... Although by the sound of it, it's possible. There is a squeak I hear when rolling at <40 miles per hour that happens randomly. It also happens when I turn my wheel from side to side while stopped.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1993 Mazda MX-6. For the past 2-3 years, my car shudders when it idles or goes less than 10 miles an hour. More and more lately, it has been shutting off completely when I drive slow or come to a stop. The first few weeks it was happening, one day while in a Burger King drive-thru (of all places- how embarrassing), it shut off and I couldn't get it to start again.
The mechanic I took it to replaced the distributor to fix it. It has not had a problem starting anymore since then, but it still shudders very hard. Could it be something else that's wrong?
I have also discovered that turning on the air conditioning keep the RPMs to stabilize, and the higher I turn the A/C, the more power it seems to get. Don't know if that is related.
I have a 4 cylinder 2003. When we drive on the street less than 40 miles per hour all is fine. But when we go faster than 40 a bad vibration starts and gets worse the faster we go, but only when you step on the gas pedal. For example, if your doing 50 and step on the gas there is a bad vibration from the front but if you release the gas pedal there is no vibration.
View 5 Replies2006 Prius 150,000+ miles. Tonight the Master warning light, brake system warning light, and Check engine light all illuminated on dash as well as the Hybrid System warning on the console. The car is idling at almost 40 miles per hour but does not allow any acceleration from the pedal. The engine will rev as if it wants to but no power.
View 11 RepliesWe bought a used 2001 Nissan Altima. It has 123,000 miles on it. It had a few minor issues, but recently it has started lurching when we go over 35 miles an hour and it will not accelerate.
View 2 RepliesI bought my Treg a on 1/16/05 only 46 days ago and have had now twice electrical failures both at while driving on freeways about 70-75 miles an hour. Every light on my treg went off for a few seconds including the MFI Radio and even the headlights. when everything went back on the xenons did their little wink. Possible 04 problem? Going to take it to my dealership on monday.
View 3 RepliesWhile going a steady speed, my speedometer will fluctuate up and down around 3 miles per hour. It will happen at any speed.
View 3 RepliesI own a 1986 Chevy Silverado C10. I have replaced much of the truck in the seven years i have owned it, including the engine about 35,000 miles ago. The modulator valve on the transmission became unbolted from the transmission housing a while back (the "tab" of the transmission housing actually cracked off). The truck lost power when this happened and most of the transmission fluid leaked out before i realized something was wrong , stopped and called a tow.
I replaced the modulator and secured it with a "Z" shaped clip made of roughly 10 gauge steel that bolts to the modulator and then to the frame that suspends the transmission. Then i noticed a loss of power up hill and the truck has trouble accelerating over 45-50 mph., possibly has trouble shifting into over drive "?".
I replaced the detent cable next, and changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket while i was at it. I have also replaced plugs and wires, and done a general tune up since then, but i still have trouble on hills and accelerating on the highway. I drive up a hill every day coming home from work and the truck slows to roughly 25mph, even if i start the hill at 45mph., and it climbs slow and seems very bogged down. Something to check before i assume the transmission needs replaced.