GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Radio Won't Work Properly?
Feb 10, 2012
My radio does not work kinda... when i turn the car on it works for a minute just fine, then the volume goes off and i cant put it up or down, but i can use and other function cd/casset fm, change stations and all that i just cant use the volume, or hear anything if i turn the radio off and then back on it works for like 5 sec then same thing happens.... I know sounds like fuses, but why does it work then shuts off?
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Today I was driving getting on the highway while having the clutch engaged I went to shift into third and it was very hard to get it into gear. For the rest of the day today this was a problem and especially at higher rpm. I am pretty sure my clutch is going. I asked around local and they say it is the clutch. Do I need to also replace my flywheel or can I just use my old one?
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I've had this problem a while but now i want to get around to fixing it.. my boost gauge is always at 0 now and sometimes when i drive the car it starts working but it starts like sticking... like when i didn't have my chip it would go up and down really fast between 10 - 15psi... i heard from a friend that you can take it apart and re-adjust some screws or something so it works like a charm... right now its just like frozen at 0 psi when i drive it doesnt go down or up.
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We just bought our 2012 Chevy Cruze in April (it was a rental return) and in the last couple of weeks the (computerized) radio has started to go berzerk. It doesn't do it all the time -- which is why the dealership hasn't caught it yet -- but when it does, it keeps rebooting itself in the manner of this other 2012. Will the car suddenly die on us without warning? We're going to make the dealership take it back if they can't find the cause and fix it.
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So your clutch pedal operates properly, the clutch engages with no issues, but this annoying squeak, snap, crackle, and pop noise keeps coming from the clutch pedal within the cabin.
Could it be your clutch master cylinder? CMC is not leaking in the engine bay and the driver footwell. Not the CMC.
Could it be your clutch switch that's used to control revs and cruise control? Removed it and clutch pedal still made noises when pressing and releasing the pedal. Not the CS.
Could it be the over-center spring that sits behind the clutch pedal assembly? How could it be? It's just a spring. Springs that compress in that orientation don't make snap, crackle, and pop noises.
What most people fail to realize is the noise is coming from the pedal assembly, but it's not the pedal structure or the pedal. It's the pivot point where it mates with the clutch pedal mounting bracket. At the pivot point are two bushings (one on each side of the pedal structure) that wears out over time creating these noises.
Please look up the part number for these bushings. They look like the following at this link but these are aftermarket upgrades for BMW's.[URL] ....
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I have a problem with my 20th anniversary gti. My 1st and 2nd gear won't work. Every other gear works fine, the gears never grind before or any unusually noise. I was pulling off my driveway and they just stop working. Even when the car it's on I can move my shifter to 1st and 2nd without the clutch and nothing happens.
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I just bought a 20th anniversary GTI with 85k miles on it and the radio cuts in and out constantly. Sometimes it won't pick up any stations at all. It is fully stock.
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I have a 2002 GTI 337 that I just bought. Got it cheap with minor issues. One of the issues is that the radio and the Dash clock/Odometer will not shut off when the car is off. I took it to VW and they told me that the Driver, Passenger, and Hood latch need replaced (vehicle isn't going into sleep mode). Its not that I do not believe them...
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Air condition will not work in my car. The A/c button will light up but will not do anything. The fan speed will only work on high and not on the other settings. I mean when I set it on 1-3 it will not kick on the fan. When I switch it to 4 it will kick the fan on but no A/C still even at that setting.
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My headlight bulb is out on the left side. Tt's just a regular bulb, not HID's or anything. I got a new bulb and it still doesn't work. I checked the wiring and it seems intact. The other lights which are connected in the housing work fine.
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it all started out like this. i was unable to go into reverse took it to a shop when first and second were good. Came out of the shop after inspection and now i can shift into first or second gear but not the rest, its stuck in those two and they do not work. do i need a new trans or is it a shift fork and or linkage?
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Car ran perfectly normal. come back out start the car, the EPC light comes on, and my gas pedal doesn't work. Doesn't do a THING...first 3 times i killed it and re-started it, the rpms shot up to 4500 for a second then fell to around 1100 and stayed there. now i start it and it just hangs at 1100. car has 47k miles on it, a 3in DP 2.5in magnaflow catback, short ram intake, TIP, 710N DV, stock N75. Only thing I can think of is TPS but I don't have access to a vag com.
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The shift lever goes into the gates fine, if a bit easier. No weird noises. 1st and 2nd gear don't work - they act like neutral.
3rd-6th and reverse work fine. Clutch hadn't been slipping. It's the original clutch.
Local mechanic found no issues between the shift lever and the transmission itself. 3 weeks ago replaced timing belt and water pump and the car has been running well.
Yesterday I was driving home from work in light stop-and-go traffic. At one point I put the car in first and it acted like it was in neutral. Engine revved but there was no engagement of the drivetrain. 2nd gear was the same story. After experimenting, 3rd-6th and reverse worked and I was able to get the car limping off to a parking lot by starting in 3rd.
I got it towed to a local mechanic who services my car who said he doesn't crack open transmissions but would look to see if there was something obvious wrong between the transmission and the shift lever. He didn't find anything.
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So I got this car for 750 and I did choose to take on the problems of the car for the miles on it and how much life I've seen these jettas go for I thought it was a pretty good deal runs and drive great except front left wheel bearing. Onto the lighting so found that the low beams only work when the car is in the on position and when the car is started and running the low beams do not work the bulbs are good because I replaced them and they work when the ignition is in the on position and I have check the fuses all seemed to be fine I also noticed that the only lighting I get on my cluster is the two display screens down on the bottom not even rpm/mph cluster? Could any of this be symptoms of faulty headlight switch? Or too much resistance somewhere?? I also notice my high beam switch also doesn't stay on I would have to hold the switch if I wanted to keep it on....
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For some reason my headlights and fog lights dont work as well as the turn signals, however the marker lights and 4ways do. The ac and fan also dont work. This all happened at once yesterday. I checked the fuses and they are fine. They must not be getting any power.
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Today I used my remote to unlock my car without a problem. When I got home from work I went to lock my car and nothing. I went a bought a new battery and replaced it, still no luck which now means I can lock my car but cannot set my alarm. I tried my extra remote and no luck with that one either.
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I have a 2003 AE and my keyless entry doesn't work. I have tried all the instructions that i can find on the internet and my manual. I replaced the key in my fob and had a locksmith check and its sending the 315hz signal just like it should. before i take it to the dealer is there anything else i can do? is it my car and how and what do i need to check? what part of the car accepts the signal?
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Had my trans worked on, it was out of the car completely. After picking it up, I got it on the highway, got it up to cruising speed, now there's a wobble at 70-80 mph. it wasn't there before I took it in. should I be getting a front end alignment now? waiting to hear back from the shop now.
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Last night on my drive home, I was listening to my iphone 5 with the apple lighting cord. I have an aftermarket kenwood kdc-x697 head unit. I also have all the correct wiring harness, and antenna harness. So last night my head unit started skippy through the song being played on my iphone. I didn't know what the deal was so I removed the face plate. Put the face plate back on and my head unit did not turn on. Once I got home, I pulled the single din head unit out and the unit started back up. Now my passenger front door speaker has a crackling/whine noise.
Last night and all this morning I have searched and have found a lot of monsoon issues with wiring. However the majority of finds all ended up with someone going to the dealer and never doing this issue themselves. How to fix this or where to start. I'm going to pull the radio now. I do know that most of the time a whine in the speakers is from alternator whine which is true but like I said it only happens to this speaker.
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Recently my tail lights went out and my turn signals dont work either, the light for the turn signal on the dash doesn't light up either. My brake lights do work tho and so do my reverse lights.
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I cant seem to diagnosis this and its driving me crazy. I've got a 05 GLI w standard 9007 headlights. All the lights work (fogs, drl, lows) except passenger high beam. The bulb is NOT burnt out either.....
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