GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Pedal Cover Came Off?
Jan 5, 2012
Can't manage to get it back on. Who knows the trick?
View 4 RepliesCan't manage to get it back on. Who knows the trick?
View 4 RepliesTrying to do new boot kit on inner cv joint. I have the ball and cage type inner joint. The joint cap comes off really easy (and a new one comes in the boot kit). The boot cover doesn't come off so easy (and there is no replacement in the boot kit). Bentley's and pretty much every other source of info says to carefully drive off the boot cover to remove cage. But they all pretty much gloss over how to do this carefully. I've hit it a couple of times with a screwdriver blade and hammer, but it's not budging. Trying not to hit it too hard.
View 6 RepliesMy GTI has a problem i don't know how to fix. Shift knob on the automatic mk4 (2005) GTI, has a rubber piece that covers the ther gears when you are in the one of your choices. Such as if you were to be in drive then park reverse and neutral would be covered by the rubber sheet, as would the gears under drives such as the 4th 3rd and 2nd gears. That sheet of rubber on the car has been unattached from the front side of the sifter so that there is a hole in front of the shifter if I were in drive, the rubber piece that covers that hole was jammed into the front part of the gearbox (directly under the shift knob when in park).
I managed to get the rubber piece out from under there with a pair of very fine pliers. now my problem is how to attach the sheet back to the front of the shift knob. the rubber sheet seems to be very loose and when it is moved side to side you can see that there is some sort of zipper pattern along each edge of the rubber cover. MY QUESTION IS!! how to reattach the rubber cover?? or do i have to take that section apart and replace it?
I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
View 3 RepliesWe were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
Car ran perfectly normal. come back out start the car, the EPC light comes on, and my gas pedal doesn't work. Doesn't do a THING...first 3 times i killed it and re-started it, the rpms shot up to 4500 for a second then fell to around 1100 and stayed there. now i start it and it just hangs at 1100. car has 47k miles on it, a 3in DP 2.5in magnaflow catback, short ram intake, TIP, 710N DV, stock N75. Only thing I can think of is TPS but I don't have access to a vag com.
View 2 RepliesNoticed the other day my clutch pedal trim is coming off... What did you do to fix it?
View 8 RepliesI keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
View 8 RepliesI just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
View 12 RepliesWhen I Accelerate It almost feels like I am fluttering the gas pedal. Its weird on my car now I have revo stage 2, a TIP, 42DD TBE, 4bar FPR.. Do I need to buy a race n75 vavle ?
View 11 RepliesSo last night I was driving home from work, and at a red light while i was waiting to go i had my clutch down when light turned green i tried to go and noticed i could not put it in gear and that my clutch pedal was stuck in place. i didn't know what to do so I checked my shifter plate everything looked fine so went to look at the pedal and i pulled it forward and it came lose. I started it up everything was fine and back to order. This morning going to work same thing happened again, I don't know what is going on and what could be the cause?
View 5 RepliesMy 20th Ann. Is jerking under acceleration. When I hit the gas pedal slightly hard it starts jerking. Every once in a while the CEL will flash on and off. I changed the spark plugs and coil packs, cleaned the MAF, and now I have no real direction where to go. Maybe it could be a vaccum problem...
View 4 RepliesComing to a stop, clutch pedal just lost all pressure. I can bring it back up, but even the slightest touch will send it to the floor again. I get the brake warning light on the dash. What could be causing this?
View 7 RepliesMy clutch has been feeling very strange lately, and has had a mind of its own. I have looked underneath myself, and have even taken it in to two transmission speacialists and they can't figure it out. The master cylinder isn't leaking, and the slave cylinder is fine as well.
Here's what is going on with my clutch...
- I will push in the pedal, and there will be ZERO resistance until about 1 inch from hitting the floor, then all the pressure is there, and I am able to shift. However, sometimes I won't even be able to put it into gear because the clutch won't engage.
- Then I will pump the pedal, and slowly I will gain a little more room on the draw of the clutch, and it will feel fine. All the way to the point where a few days later it will be driving like new.
- Then it will start feeling funky again a few days later and the cycle starts over.
I drive a 2003 GTI 20th AE.
I find that the Rubber stock ones are not grippy enough. I have used the turner motorsport ones on my bmw but not sure if they will retro-fit on my 337.
View 2 RepliesI have an Imola 20th and recently i have been having some problems with my clutch. The pedal goes from being soft to very hard when its close to disengaging. It also engages very heavily when I go to let it out. This only started happening recently when temperatures started to drop if this has any effect on a clutch. Also, I replaced a shift fork two months ago and was curious if there was possibly anything going on with seals around the slave cylinder.
View 2 RepliesI have just purchased a VW GTI 337 with 194k on the odometer. The car has a few issues, I have listed the issues by importance. The car came with a stage III ARP turbo kit installed. I just don't know if it's the stage III or stage III+. The car seems to be running okay but it seems like it's lacking the power. Meaning that I should be feeling more. Could it be that car seems to be in some sort of limp mode?
1. The car surges when I am at the low and mid pedal. But, not when I am wide open throttle. Seems like to me that the car is hesitating until I give it a lot of gas. I have changed spark plugs and coils have been replaced by VW dealer for free.
2. ABS light is on and stays on, does not blink just stays on.
3. ASR button will not work. When pressed in it will not light up or show that its activated.
4. Left brake pad or sensor is not plugged in because it's missing the connection. Looks like someone cut it off for some sort of reason.
5. A light that has a triangle with a circle surrounding it, is on. The light is in the cluster.
6. The front brake pads light is on, this is also in the cluster.
The transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
Recently my clutch started acting strange, the pedal felt softer and eventually after I pressed it in it stayed on the floor. After pumping it, everything went back to normal. Next day, still same thing, no pressure in the clutch pedal. I checked the brake fluid and it's full. There is also no sign of any leak. Took the car to the mechanic, he recommended changing the master cylinder. I changed it but still nothing. I tried bleeding the slave but every time I bleed it, it has air in it. So I'm stuck and don't know what should I do next. I think it might be my slave cylinder but I don't have a place or tools to do it myself. I'm pretty sure the entire tranny needs to be pulled out to remove the cylinder. I also read that most people change the clutch when they replace the slave.
View 10 RepliesCar: 03 20th with 6spd 02m trans.
Problem: Go out in the morning esp when really cold, and the clutch pedal drops to the floor. No resistance at all on it as if it's no connected to anything. I pull it back up and pedal starts to build pressure.
I thought slave cylinder searching on here shows a high probability of that being the issue. But the strange thing is the pedal feels like it's sticking at the midway point. Once pressure is built up to normal pedal pressure, if I opush it down and slide my foot off it, it will literally rise fast and the feels like it catches on something and pops to the normal top position.
So my thought here is that the Master cylinder is sticking somewhere inside and causing the pedal to hang up. The weird part though is that once the car is warmed up the problem starts to diminish. But if I drive long enough on the highway (not shifting gears) the clutch seems to start losing pressure all over again.
I have also had to top off the brake fluid reservoir about 3 times in 2 months. What is the root cause here?
So your clutch pedal operates properly, the clutch engages with no issues, but this annoying squeak, snap, crackle, and pop noise keeps coming from the clutch pedal within the cabin.
Could it be your clutch master cylinder? CMC is not leaking in the engine bay and the driver footwell. Not the CMC.
Could it be your clutch switch that's used to control revs and cruise control? Removed it and clutch pedal still made noises when pressing and releasing the pedal. Not the CS.
Could it be the over-center spring that sits behind the clutch pedal assembly? How could it be? It's just a spring. Springs that compress in that orientation don't make snap, crackle, and pop noises.
What most people fail to realize is the noise is coming from the pedal assembly, but it's not the pedal structure or the pedal. It's the pivot point where it mates with the clutch pedal mounting bracket. At the pivot point are two bushings (one on each side of the pedal structure) that wears out over time creating these noises.
Please look up the part number for these bushings. They look like the following at this link but these are aftermarket upgrades for BMW's.[URL] ....