GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Partial Throttle / Surging Usually In 2nd Gear
Oct 25, 2009
I've noticed this when driving for a while now but was never really sure what was causing it. It was usually in 2nd gear and the car would sorta surge on and off boost almost. yesterday i found out that it only occurred when i gave my car partial throttle. It would build boost, let off, build again etc. Full throttle and it was not a problem at all. My car is an 04.5 GLI chipped / 3" exhaust etc etc and would like to know what I can do with this problem.
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Under heavy acceleration my car surges. I have already put a new stock diverter valve on and no change....I am thinking n75 is next on my shotgun list?
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So, when i throttle down i get a hissing noise, almost like a very small jet engine. then when i let off the throttle I get the psh psh psh psh noise and not the solid pssshhh noise. What might it be? I was thinking pcv breather, or DV, but i dont want to go just replacing parts. I have the 04 gli 1.8t ....
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Yesterday, I was taking off from a light and noticed that when I got around 10 PSI, the car kind of nosed over and sputtered. So I started to play around and discovered that no matter what gear, this always happened between 7-12 PSI of boost. Normal driving for me is shifting around 3k RPM, about half throttle. Sometimes when I shift, it pops. Not like a normal, chipped car pop but not quite loud enough to be a backfire.
I took my dad out in the car and got to 55 MPH, then held the throttle half way to keep boost around 10 PSI and it would start sputtering/bogging down erratically. Any more then 12, and the car is fine. Any less then 7 and the car is fine. He suggested a Throttle Position Sensor that has a dead spot in it.
Here's some thought from me:
Coils/Misfires - If it were a coil or misfiring, it would be all the time, not just what I described above, correct?
Boost Leak - At WOT, the car gets up and goes while holding steady boost.
Vac Leak - I've been told at idle, the car is supposed to have 19-21 in Hg of vacuum. It's at 20.
If you turn your speakers up, you can actually hear the exhaust gurgling in the video when I hit the spot I am talking about. There are no loud noises, so don't worry about maxing them. I had to.
[URL] ...
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Getting onto the freeway, not putting the gas to the floor or anything, my throttle completely cut out on me and the EPC and ASR light came on. Turned off the engine, let it sit, and it fired right back up with no lights on.
Replaced the valve cover gasket recently and had a somewhat rough idle since, not sure if the coil over isn't all the way down but will investigate soon.
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So my car is throwing a P0172 and when I start to get into the throttle, I get hesitation. I have replaced the plugs and the coil packs, and I tried unplugging the MAF which just made the car run worse. What could it be? Boost leak? Something else?
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I have a 04' Jetta 1.8T (AWP) my mods are APR Chip (91octane program) Forge 007 DV, APR TIP, NGK spark plugs, catback exhaust. This issue I am having pretty much started when i got it chipped and I've got it reflashed and I've even talked to people at APR and they are saying that it couldn't be a software issue. Anyhow the problem I am having is at partial throttle my car kind of hesitates a little at 5psi and when i let of the gas the car kind of hiccups a little.. but if i really punch it in every gear i hit 21-22psi no problem, the problem happens when I am driving normal and its really annoying.
I have switched several different N75 valves, I am running the stock one now, I've switched different DV's, i have switched my spark plugs and even put at APR turbo inlet pipe and i have checked for boost/vacuum leaks, I have no CEL...all this hasn't resolved my problem.. I don't know what else to do..
I was thinking about switching my MAF to see if it works, but then again if it was my MAF im sure I would have a CEL. I also was thinking about putting my N75 valve backwards even the DV backwards to see if it works?
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Mark IV GTI. Neuspeed intake, chip, exhaust. The situation is...
When driving enthusiastically, harder, and sportingly, the car runs beautifully!
When driving normally, such as highway cruise or lower speeds with a consistent throttle input, the power will cut-out. Then the max boost pressure will be approximately 3 psi until the key is cycled. Then normal chipped operation resumes. Since it is difficult to drive hard all the time, this circumstance comes up often.
There is a new N75 recently installed. The situation does NOT set off the check engine light.
I have noticed according to the boost gauge readings, it tends to happen between 10 inHg to 0 psi. Above or below that, don't recall it happening.
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Car is a 20th, 1.8t 6-speed.
I noticed something the other day that is happening occasionally on acceleration. At partial throttle, usually pulling away from a light or stop sign, I get this weird hesitation. It only happens at partial throttle and usually only in first, sometimes in second. As the RPMs increase up to around 3k, it's as if I lose power for a second. You can feel the car stop accelerating for a second, then it begins to pull again.
If it's under heavy acceleration it never happens. It doesn't feel like the clutch slipping, more like the motor hesitating, but there's no noises or missing or anything like that. The RPMs don't jump up or anything. It's like for a second it's making no power, then it comes back.
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I'm 350 miles into break-in period. Just had a DXD stage 2 daily clutch installed on Tuesday. APR Stage 2+ tune with VWR intake and APR downpipe and HPFP. Been babying car since clutch was installed. Under partial throttle going up hill clutch is slipping in 5th and 6th.
I'm also experiencing a terrible vibration thru the chassis at 2k RPM in upper gears with light load on engine.
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Buddy of mine woke up with a GLI that runs like this. Stage 2 Uni, cold air, 3 inch turbo back. [URL] ....
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About two weeks ago i had a ton of work done to my W100: clutch, freeze plugs, valve seals, body mount bushing, headers, x-pipe dual exhaust. The shop did tell me before i picked it up that it had a lean pop and the carb needs to be rebuilt.
as of now, it idles fine and drive fine when cold, as it starts to warm up it starts to become problematic - it feels like the engine stumbles any time you try to maintain a constant speed (slight throttle engagement), it accelerates fine, but that's about it. You have to drive it in a constant state of accelerate and foot off gas because it does not like you foot on the gas pedal just a little. if you do keep your foot slightly engaged it will stumble and the exhaust will pop - not so much a backfire as there's not at jerking.
-both coolant sensors are new
-spark plugs are FSM spec champion copper 404/rn12yc
-plug wires are a year old (msd cheaper line)
-timing seems fine (around 8-10 BTDC)
-watched at night to try to see if any arcing was happening, none that i could see or hear
-finagled some exhaust restrictors on the exhaust tips out of rubber plumbing couplers and big lag bolt washers to try to recreate the backpressure from the old exhaust, no difference
-went around the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and propane, couldn't find any distinguishable leaks
Fuel filter about a year old- new fuel pump installed while at shop.
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Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I have a problem with my 20th anniversary gti. My 1st and 2nd gear won't work. Every other gear works fine, the gears never grind before or any unusually noise. I was pulling off my driveway and they just stop working. Even when the car it's on I can move my shifter to 1st and 2nd without the clutch and nothing happens.
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So I get in the car to move my car this morning and I can't get the car into 1st gear. It turns out I can't get the car into reverse, 1st gear, or even 3rd gear. It feels like something is blocking me from even approaching those gears, however the others (2,4,5,&6) seem to be fine.
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I bought a rebuilt trans from a fellow vortex member a little over a month ago. I had it installed and ever since then when I am getting on it going from second to third it grinds a little bit going into third gear. It only does this when i get on it, but when im just cruising its fine. Could the shift linkage just need aligned? Or what else could it be?
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As of two days ago my car ust refused to go into 1st gear. I know that it is a common occurrence with the 02j and shift fork, but 2nd works perfectly, so how could it be that shift fork?
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So I've been noticing that my GLi is tough to put into first gear sometimes. I feel almost like I have to jam it in place and hold it there, it doesn't just click in. Could this be the shifter cable ends or the cables themselves? Its weird... its only ever been a problem for 1st gear though.
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I was driving home and noticed that it seemed harder to shove the gear shift into 1st gear. I stopped on the way home and discovered that I couldn't put the car into reverse, when I tried, and then started to drop the clutch and go in reverse, it was as if the car was locked into both reverse and a forward gear, the engine would bog and the car wouldn't budge.
I popped the hood and checked the shift rods and they looked OK, no obstructions or broken parts. I played with the gears for a bit and finally reverse gear suddenly started working again, but now 1st and 2nd gear are gone! it does not feel as if it's engaging the gears at all, the lever moves free. No different than having it in neutral. 3rd gear and above all still work OK, so I had to use 3rd gear to get the car moving.
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I had my first and second gear go out on my gti over a month ago, it sat at my house for a little over 2 weeks. When I finally was able to take it to the transmission shop it needed a jump. A week later my transmission was rebuilt and clutch replaced. Car needed a jump when leaving the shop too.
I took it home and a bit later tried to go somewhere and... nothing. Completely dead, won't charge or be jumped. Sunroof was half open and windows cracked. Rained that night so I had a make-shift cover with trash bags and a container top. (I don't know if this matters but just in case it may be water related.)
The next day I got a new battery and changed it. Car worked fine for 2 days. This morning I tried to start it and it fluttered and battery completely shut off. Jumped it and tried to take it around the block after few and it shut off mid drive, but was able to restart while rolling. Then when I pulled over and hit the four ways it immediately shut everything off again. I had someone come with cables so I could just get it home, and as soon as I connected the red cable to + it sparked and the lights and everything turned on, started right up. (the jumper cables were not connected to anything on the other side)
Finally I got it back home and when I pulled into the driveway and stopped I hit the window buttons and boom, everything off again.
Confusing story, but what could be wrong? I included everything just in case. (I have 2 keys, one which keyless entry works and one which it doesn't as of recent. I have used both. Don't know if immobilizer could be it either.)
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