GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Over Boost Codes / Limp Mode
Jan 12, 2010
There ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
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Having trouble with car going into limp mode or just not boosting at all. Tried some basic things to fix it, plugs, coilpacks, tune, none have work.
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Was driving the other day and one of the couplers came loos and I lost boost and went into limp mode. I pulled over, got it reattached, and after that it would only hit 10 lbs. i have a KO4-001 with the GIAC file and it usually hits 20+ and holds 20 lbs. I have a regular code reader and I had a code for the EBC, cleared it, rechecked the hoses, and verified with the flash loader that I was on the correct file, but it is still only hitting 10 lbs. What else I should check.
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Preliminary info:
APR 93 tune
Carbonio Intake
Silicone TIP
I picked up my 20th today and drove it 4 hours home. It has 74k on it, original timing belt. The timing belt kit is in the mail on its way here. Its the first thing I'm doing.
As I was driving it home on the autobahn doing about 150k/hr and I gave it half throttle to pass, I felt the turbo spool and I accelerated past the car. However, when I went to make the next pass, it felt like I had no power. I feathered the throttle a bit and it felt like my car was only getting maybe 3 PSI of boost. Very little actually. I do not have a boost gauge so I can't really say it accurately. As I was driving, i shut the ignition off and turned it back on. After that, I was able to get full pressure back.
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So I have a bad map sensor and lately my turbos been going in and out of limp mode. I recently just replaced with a new n75 valve and it solved the problem for about a week and now it's acting up again. Its not a constant problem it occurs usually every 20 starts. Could the map sensor be the reason why my car is going into limp mode?
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I got a quick question about limp mode. I know this has prolly been covered a few times but I couldn't find anything too similar. Well, to start out my car cannot boost past 3lbs. If i turn the car off and take the terminals off the battery and let it reset for a while, it goes back to normal for a while. After a few times driving it, limp mode comes back on.
The first time this happened, the check engine light came on also. But once I reset the battery it turned off and went back to normal. But it never stays away for good, limp mode always ends up coming back...
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I got this car (03 gti 20th a/e) a few months back, and days after taking ownership it started having issues. the one that's still present is related to the boost. Every time I go to accelerate and hit 15-17psi the car sputters, and sounds like a popping noise under the hood..followed by the car going to 5psi for a few seconds, and the engine light flashing (then goes to solid cel).
The car has been scanned for the cel and it had thrown a number of codes-all have been addressed..but still have the same issue!--misfire in #3. I have had a local shop that only works with vw's & audis do all the repairs. we have replaced the coil pack, the spark plugs, and the N249 boost valve. The car is still showing a misfire in #3. What could be the issue? Maybe its the tune?
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Engine temperature too low. Turbo boost pressure too high. The car has the APR 93 octane program, carbonio intake, and silicone TIP.
What could be causing these codes? The car gets up to temp (190) real quick and stays there, and I don't feel a fluctuation of boost.
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I have a 2004 1.8T AWM auto tranny Passat with APR chip. CIA, Bolt down Coil Packs, Bosch F6DTC plugs, OEM cat to straight pipe to magnaflow muffler, N75J, Forge DV (not the 007).
I installed a MBC bypassing the N75 to keep the spike at 16psi and hold (the n75J i spike at 22psi and hold 12~14), When I did that, the car will go in limp mode from 'over boosting'. I have to turn the MBC down to 9 to keep the car limping out. I love the way the MBC have the boost curve (the N75 is too passive for me). would like to fix this issue.
Also, with the N75 and or MBC, while in the APR 93 oct chip mode, I always get surging in 4th and 5th gear. Any time the boost is over 10psi, it is like I have tons of boost, but the engine is not using it. APR said it is the tranny, the tranny shop said it is the engine or computer, the engine shop said it is the tuning.
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I currently own a 2001 Jetta 1.8t. It is currently tuned for 15 psi supposedly. I have never seen that number been hit and the highest it will go(only in 4th and 5th gear) is 13-14psi on a good day. And even when it does get there it does not hold the boost what so ever. It will start losing boost almost as soon as it reaches those numbers. Another thing is my MAF is currently unplugged and is making my car throw a code. When MAF is plugged in it cuts out boost and goes into "limp" mode.
Here are some engine mods that may be apart of this issue:
- Front mount intercooler, full intercooler pipe kit
- Oem diverter valve
- N75 j valve
- ACHTUNING tune on 15 psi not sure which stage
- Forged turbo inlet pipe
- 032 motorsports crankcase breather hose conversion
- Ecs tuning
- 2.0t coilpacks and mounting plate
- AWP head
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I have been battling a big boost upon acceleration at stoplights for approximately 6 months. Now twice I have gone into limp mode and the tech reads: PO700 (Transmission) and PO731 (Gear 1). I just turned over 190,000 miles but only purchased it a year ago. What is the problem(s)?
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Alrighty now. I have a 93 f250 idi Na.
Before problems started: the truck.shifted all 4 gears fine.
Problem(s) begins: Then out of the blue(after I shut it off... even if it was for 30sec, and then turn it on ) it would go into limp mode but if I shut it off and then turn it on again, it would work fine. After about 3weeks/ 600 miles it just went straight to limp mode.
What I did: After 3-4 weeks of that, I replaced the solenoid pack(uncooked both batteries and waited 10 min before I hooked them up) with a eBay special. After that, I had 1st,....., limp 3rd, then it'd slam like check into OD. To get second(which was limp), I'd have to manually drop it in 2 and and let off the pedal before I'd put it in D, to avoid it slamming straight into OD. It would toy with limp and OD from 35mph-45mph. Then it.just went straight to limp mode again.
What I couldn't do because don't know how to solve: I went to go get the codes read and the connector was missing and only one wire was leading to where the connector should've been.
What I did...again: I replaced the control module in the firewall. Then my codes cleared up. And same problem as when I put the new solenoid pack in. But no codes.
What is it still doing????: it's a go round battle between complete limp mode, limp mode and wanting to go into gear(suited to proper mph&rpm), or 1st, limp2&3, and OD.
What I tried: TC lock-up switch.,. And it worked but didn't solve my problem so I scratched that one.
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I was driving home. Problems started after pulling away from a 4-way stop. Truck started lunging almost like I was running out of fuel. Then I got a "Transmission Malfunction" in the in dash display. Followed by limp mode. I checked the Faults when I got home. I have the following:
P0720 - Powertrain - Output speed sensor Circuit
P2106 - Powertrain - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power (From what I understand this is associated with limp mode. Not a root of the problem)
P0713 - Powertrain - Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor Circuit High Input
P0722 - Powertrain - Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
The vehicle has around 192,000 mi. Replaced cam phasers in upper engine roughly 1000 miles ago and replaced all the bearings in the rear differential roughly 100 mi ago. I haven't messed with anything on the transmission. Checked fluid level and color of transmission fluid.
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I took my car in for a clutch install, everything was fine except the clutch slipping. I go to pick up my car and once the car warmed up it started bucking / limp mode while accelerating. Take it back to the mechanic and he thinks he didn't reset the throttle body. So he says that should be it and I pull away. Same thing. Leave it with him again and he replaces with "diag" coils and new plugs. Leave again, same thing. He tells me to get totally new coils and try that. I am thinking its a missed ground cable or messed up ECU or something. During all this not one code it thrown.
20th GTI 1.8T 6 speed, stock clutch, all stock
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I'm to the point of driving the car off a cliff! I've included a log of the car acting upt. The car is a 20th AE GTI AWP. It was chipped all it's life and ran like a champ. In November I installed a Frankenturbo F21T turbo kit, Bosch EV14 550cc injectors, 3" MAF, eBay FMIC, 3" catted exhaust, and a custom tune from Motoza. Dave at Motoza has updated the file 4 times and no matter what he changes, the car will boost up to the requested boost of 19psi and hold it for almost one second, then boost will drop to 12-15psi and then boost past the request to like 22-24 psi and go back and forth until the gear is over and I shift. Then it does the same thing in the next gear. i just want a solid 18-20psi without a manual boost controller! Things I have tried:
-Changed the N75J back to a NEW stock N75
-Replaced all the N75 vacuum lines
-Wastegate cracks at 7-8psi
-Replaced every worm feed clamp to a nice T-bolt clamp
-Boost leak tested to 18psi and found no leaks
-Deleted SAI, N249, and N112
-Unplugged MAF, nothing changed
LOG with multiple WOT pulls: [URL]...
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I have a 20th 1.8t. It was running fine last week but all of the sudden i was only getting about 4-5 psi. I have check all over vwvortex for somewhat of an answer. I have no C.E.L.. I have checked for vacuum leaks with nothing coming up. I tried to check for boost leaks but it comes out of the dipstick hole. I have undone and re-installed the pancake pipe. The DV is holding pressure.
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when the traction control is off my boost hits 18psi and there have been times where it was 20 psi. My friend said i probably have stage 1 software .
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Start with the basics, no CEL's, car has not cut out while driving and I've only had to attempt cranking up the car twice since I started noticing these issues about 6 months ago.
Symptoms: hesitation/variation in boost during acceleration- doesn't matter if I really get into the gas or just "normal" passing acceleration RPM's steadily climb, but just not as consistent or quickly. Also, the one that really has me really confused. With a 1/4 tank of gas or less, going up a slight incline (overpass); 70-mph-ish... acceleration dies off, rpm's slowly decline, and gas pedal doesn't respond for about 2-3 seconds. Car never shuts off, no CEL's, then everything is fine again! Even does it when I'm using cruise control. Car just rolled 110,000 miles
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I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
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So I have a 20th AE with 113k Miles.
All of engine is stock, but when I FLOOR it from about 3rd-4th or sometimes 2nd-3rd the car will build up boost but release it without me letting go off pedal.
So, basically as I am driving the car sort of builds up, drops, builds up, drops without my doing anything but drive.
It will rev to about 3k stop for a second, rev to 4k stop for a split second, rev to 5k and so on... Not sure what this is or why it could be happening...
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So I just installed a boost gauge. Vacuum line is running off the fuel pressure regulator. My boost is now not going over 10 psi and the engine is cutting out. It kinda feels like the dv isn't holding psi but just always open. The car is a 05 gli with intake and exhaust.
Also the car seems to be running alright at below 2000 rpm and it just starts to cut out when it should be making boost. And I'm pretty sure this car is reprogrammed because yesterday when I finished the boost gauge install it was running at19 psi.
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