GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Not Starting On First Crank
Aug 8, 2014
My 20th has been having a starting issue and I've honestly tried everything I can think of, this issue just randomly started one day the car will not start on first crank it starts second or third every time. After it's started and running it runs perfect its just getting it started.
I've replaced the Crankshaft sensor, Camshaft sensor, Coolant temp sensor, the car has had new injectors (440) installed about two months ago, has the new battery. My father is a mechanic and he has also tried everything he knows to do and we asked our local VW specialist and he said to try the things we have already did. Ran codes when the issue started and it only came up with camshaft sensor and we replaced that and cleared the code still nothing. Once this issue started we parked the car and started troubleshooting and the oil was low? even though I know before the issue started it was good and full. the car has a stage two intronic tune, 440 injectors, secondary air delete and all and a shaved and partially tucked bay, there are no resistors is the open unused sensors.
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just found my cranksensor was dead.. on the highway today.. sooo!.. can som1 tell me where is that sensor exactly so i can change it today.
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There wasn't even a crank. Held the ignition for a couple of seconds and it starts. The next day I had the battery and the alternator checked, they were both good. Another couple days passed and it did not want to start again. Got it scanned no codes come up. I changed the ignition switch and still I have the same problem with no crank.
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I got the car like that. When I take off hard there is a crack somewhere in the front. Then when I stop hard it cracks too. What could it be??? Sometype of bushing??
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So today as I was pulling my handbrake after parking the car, apparently it snapped, so np, taking it tomorrow to the garage for a fix. Anyways had an urgent outing, started the car and went for a 10 mins drive. I didn't give it enough time to warm up. So finished what i had to do, got back in the car, tried to start it, nothing. Took me two tries and 20 seconds of cranking before the car would start. started with EPC light on, drove it nothing wrong in it, except the check EPC light is on. What it might be?
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I just picked up my new GLI the other day. It sounds like a diesel when I start it up. It only has 200 miles so far, so I'm not sure if it's because it hasn't been broken in. My dad has a brand new A4 1.8T with about as many miles as my GLI and it doesn't sound anything like mine when its started up. I don't remember other GLI's sounding like mine when I test drove them. Is this normal or am I being oversensative?
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I was in traffic the other day on the express way and I noticed my engine was starting to overheat. I think it has something to do with the AC because as soon as I turned it off the temp went back to normal. What it could be?
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Noticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
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So, yesterday I had my GLI in the shop to put a new timing belt on as well as some ECS Lightweight Pulleys. When I went to pick up the car, they did not install the pulleys. The reason they said was because the stock crank pulley has a dampener which keep vibration and balanced weight on the crank assembly and that the lightweight crank does not have these benefits.
So, now I have a set red anodized pulleys.. [URL].............
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So driving on the highway my car died. It would crank but not start. Got it towed. This is what I have done to troubleshoot.
1. Swap ECUs. The car should start for a second and shut off because the car doesnt match with the ECU. Still just crank and no start.
2. Fuel pump still primes when I open the door. I also hear a weird air leaking noise when I reconnect the battery, but I think it comes from the fuel pressure regulator (which I think is normal).
3. Checked for current at the ecu wires, wasn't sure what to look for but it was getting numbers.
4. Battery had 12.1 volts running through it (Haynes said 12.5 but is that really much of a difference?
5. Checked spark plugs for spark. Pretty sure we did it right, but there was still no spark. We tried multiple times.
6. Scan car, get code P01314 twice (ECM error).
7. Try to clear codes, says Comm error.
Why am I not getting spark? and why is the ECU error occurring, because we tested with a new ecu, and there was still no start, not even for a second like there should be.
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A few weeks ago, my battery died, got a new one, ran fine for a week. Then wanted to go to work a a few days ago, turn the key and heard nothing, took the starter out, got a new one and put it in (used-but I took it apart and it looked fine) Once I put that in was excited to have my car back, but same thing, not even a sound coming from the starter, doesn't even try. Thought it might be a fuse problem, checked everyone that might have to do with the engine...and they all looked fine.
Something with the relays perhaps? I haven't checked those yet. A ground issue? I'm so lost right now.
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So I did a couple searches and found a couple MK3's with this issue however I did not find anything for the MK4.
The last couple days, we have been over 90 degrees in the afternoon. My black 03 20th 1.8t sits on the side of the road at work in the direct sun from 12:30 (lunch) until 5pm when I get off.
The last 2 days, when I have gone to start it, it cranks and cranks for 5-8 seconds before it starts to catch and finally stumbles to life. Once its running, everything feels fine. If I turn the car off and restart it, it starts fine.
In the mornings in the garage, evenings when its cooler or leaving for lunch before the day has gotten really hot, it starts fine. It only seems to be affected after sitting in the direct afternoon heat for a few hours.
I have read vapor lock, dying crank position sensor, ignition issues, starter etc. I am going to rule out the starter as the car cranks like normal. It simply does not fire.
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I get a ticking niose when i crank the wheel all the way to the left or right and reverse .. What it could be (its fine when I drive forward)....
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I have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
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I was following the directions on the APR site to remove the ECU and it seems to not make sense. Saying the ECU is on the passenger side underneath the molding....
is the ECU in the center?
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I've had the leak for a long time now possibly from when I've gotten it... anyway when I first bought it I drove it a lot, like 8k miles in 6 months. During that time I went through a qt of oil about every week and a half. Now the last 3 months I've been barely driving it due to life changes so I'm barely putting oil in I'll go weeks sometimes of checking the level and it'll be fine. This leak has to relate with how often its driven and maybe hot?
I've had the car up multiple times to try and find the spot all I know is it's behind the engine below the valve cover gasket and above or near the turbo area(I've only owned my first VW this 20th for less then a yr so I'm still learning)
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I get up to go to work today and the car runs fine, a few hours later i get back in, try to put it in reverse, and nothing.. it wont let me shift in after i push it down. So i push it back in neutral and drive away.. every gear works fine, when i got home i took off the boot, tried to see if anything was loose, shake it a few times and out of nowhere first and second give. They were working perfectly 5 min before, and now they just feel really loose, but every other gear works fine, so now I have no reverse, 1st or 2nd. Did I just knock something out of alignment or is the problem a lot worse.
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