GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Misfiring When Flooring - CEL Comes On And Flashes
Jan 24, 2010
I have had my 337 for about 5 months now and occasionally when i floor it it misfires or something because the CEL comes on and flashes. This happens quite often and i was wondering if it is normal or what it could be. Brand new spark plugs. coilpacks not so long ago.
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This has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
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A couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
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Due to a drawbridge/liftbridge opening just in front of me, I was suddenly in a great rush.
So I floored my Prius (really floored it) a few minutes after startup to take the longer route to my daughters school. I noticed a slight sinusoidal variation in power (maybe 5% max?) that was reoccurring with a frequency of about one Hertz.
Sound familiar? Something to do with the voltage dropping on the HV battery, the power drawn from it being throttled back, the voltage recovering, the power being increased, etc???
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When I 'hit the gas' I hear a loud clunk or short scratching noise (definitely metal) before the engine starts revving up. I've researched the issue a bit but found no concrete answers. Motor mounts, timing, transmission issue? No one thing seems to cause it as far as I can tell.
I got my '92 Volvo 240 Non-Turboalmost a year ago and haven't really thought much of the noise, but I'm coming up on a 500mi trip to Northern California. I want to make sure it's in tip-top shape before I leave. [IMG]
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I just recently bought my IS350 F-Sport (now has about 2kmiles) and the other day while it was about 70 degrees out, at a stop light, i decided to floor it in 1st gear (manual mode) and towards hitting redline (about 6300rpm), the traction light comes on and the transmission automatically shifts up before i even get a chance to fully manually shift myself. So by the time i do get a chance to push the paddle shifter, it would now go into 3rd gear.
I did not turn off my traction control before all this - so that may be the problem but i didn't think it would be an issue because the motor is all stock (aside from JoeZ intake pipe). Did simply turning the traction off allow the for full usage of 1st gear before needing to upshift?
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
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I was following the directions on the APR site to remove the ECU and it seems to not make sense. Saying the ECU is on the passenger side underneath the molding....
is the ECU in the center?
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I've had the leak for a long time now possibly from when I've gotten it... anyway when I first bought it I drove it a lot, like 8k miles in 6 months. During that time I went through a qt of oil about every week and a half. Now the last 3 months I've been barely driving it due to life changes so I'm barely putting oil in I'll go weeks sometimes of checking the level and it'll be fine. This leak has to relate with how often its driven and maybe hot?
I've had the car up multiple times to try and find the spot all I know is it's behind the engine below the valve cover gasket and above or near the turbo area(I've only owned my first VW this 20th for less then a yr so I'm still learning)
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I get up to go to work today and the car runs fine, a few hours later i get back in, try to put it in reverse, and nothing.. it wont let me shift in after i push it down. So i push it back in neutral and drive away.. every gear works fine, when i got home i took off the boot, tried to see if anything was loose, shake it a few times and out of nowhere first and second give. They were working perfectly 5 min before, and now they just feel really loose, but every other gear works fine, so now I have no reverse, 1st or 2nd. Did I just knock something out of alignment or is the problem a lot worse.
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I recently took out my headliner And my passenger's side seat. When I put everything back together, I turned the car on and the light came on. What can be the issue?
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After I got gas yesterday I drove about 10miles and the CEL light came on. The gas cap seemed a little loose so I am assuming it is that until I get it scanned soon. I was just wondering how long is stayed on if it wasn't cleared, I know some cars take a few days.
Does euroswitch installed have a problem with the audible headlights-are-still-on tone? If I leave my lights on, and exit the car no sound will sound. If I open it back up, then it will make a sound. Pretty useless.
Also, still looking on the best length for the Thule wind fairing for stock votex racks?
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So I just changed the valve cover fast but I am still getting oil onto the hood of my car. It did this before I changed the gasket as well. Is my valve cover bent maybe?
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Ok first lemme start I have a 20th with 76,000 miles chipped. I was driving down my street and the car julted a little, didn't think it was much, kept driving the check engine light turned on and the engine sounded like it was hesitating and I lost alot of power. Also it sounds like a Subaru. I haven't yet changed my coils so I'm thinking that's what it is.
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so my check engine light came on recently and i took my car to a local shop to get it checked out and they told me one of my o2 sensors might be bad and that i should replace it. but because the catalytic converter that i have installed is an aftermarket one(installed before i bought the car used), they told me they were unable to remove the sensor attached because it was welded(?) on or something to that effect and they didnt have the tools to fix it.
so i did some research and found a better shop that deals with catalytic converters and exhaust systems and im thinking of taking my car there to see what they can do BUT, i was just researching online and ive found other posts saying that it may not even be a bad o2 sensor, it could be a different problem but the its just the bad o2 sensor code that comes up and now i dont know what to do.
just wanted to see what everyones opinion is on this subject or if they have gone through this before!
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I am trying to put a exhaust cut out on my car, I am trying to put it right before the cat. Looking for pics?
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I have a problem with my 20th anniversary gti. My 1st and 2nd gear won't work. Every other gear works fine, the gears never grind before or any unusually noise. I was pulling off my driveway and they just stop working. Even when the car it's on I can move my shifter to 1st and 2nd without the clutch and nothing happens.
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Whenever I go over about 50 MPH it starts shaking like the dickens. We have a lot of snow around so I'm thinking i just have messed up alignment from hitting snow chunks but who knows. [URL] ....
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