GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Master Cylinder Is Sticking Somewhere Inside And Causing Pedal To Hang Up
Jan 20, 2011
Car: 03 20th with 6spd 02m trans.
Problem: Go out in the morning esp when really cold, and the clutch pedal drops to the floor. No resistance at all on it as if it's no connected to anything. I pull it back up and pedal starts to build pressure.
I thought slave cylinder searching on here shows a high probability of that being the issue. But the strange thing is the pedal feels like it's sticking at the midway point. Once pressure is built up to normal pedal pressure, if I opush it down and slide my foot off it, it will literally rise fast and the feels like it catches on something and pops to the normal top position.
So my thought here is that the Master cylinder is sticking somewhere inside and causing the pedal to hang up. The weird part though is that once the car is warmed up the problem starts to diminish. But if I drive long enough on the highway (not shifting gears) the clutch seems to start losing pressure all over again.
I have also had to top off the brake fluid reservoir about 3 times in 2 months. What is the root cause here?
View 20 Replies
Advertisement
2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
View 2 Replies
The cruise switch on my brake master cylinder is bad and causing the cruise to not work. I have it bypassed with a jumper wire and it works fine. is there any reason not to do this?
View 11 Replies
so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
View 1 Replies
I have a 337 and the check engine light came on a couple months ago and i got the clutch safety switch replaced. but I forgot to take the light back off with my friends snap on tool. the car runs fine now but another friend with a TDI jetta said something about a master ecu reset? something like turn the key in the on position then hold the gas pedal for like 15 secs? I tried it but nothing happened. I just want the light to go away...
View 6 Replies
I have a 2007 Tacoma 4 cylinder 5 speed. The clutch pedal started sticking about a month ago and has only happened a hand full of times. When the pedal is pushed to the floor it would stick, I thought it was hanging up on the floor mat at first but that was not the case. I went out to move the truck today and the pedal immediately stuck to the floor. Like usual I tapped the pedal kind of on the side to get it to release. the pedal then came back up. But now it wont push back in at all!!! There is only 1/2" of travel on the pedal and stops solid. It's like it is binding up on something. The spring seems to be in place the right way and nothing that I can see obviously wrong.
View 4 Replies
I have a '53 Ford F100. I have a PB conversion kit on it. The master cylinder & Booster are under the floor. I have used this setup for many years. Recently my master cylinder went bad. I replaced it with the same model. I bench bled it, and installed it. I also added a remote fill kit, since it's difficult to check & fill. Because of the booster, the master cylinder no longer sits under the hatch in the floor.
I got everything installed & connected, then bled all 4 wheels using a bleeder kit with an electric vacuum pump. The fluid runs clear & no bubbles, but I can't get a pedal by pumping. I have no leaks. I tried with the engine off, and running. I have felt soft pedals before, but I have no pedal at all, it just goes to the floor.
View 13 Replies
I have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
View 1 Replies
Been having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
View 11 Replies
1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cyclinder need rebuilding or is my vacume diaphragm going. Not sure thats what its called.
View 14 Replies
I have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 Replies
2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
View 4 Replies
I noticed that my floors were wet. To the touch they weren't soaked or even a puddle. It was just a damp feeling. I took a moisture reader to the carpet and sure enough I was right. I used a space heater to dry out my carpet. I had it all dry and now some moisture is back and where it gets tricky. The floors that are wet, are in the middle of the foot well in the rear of the car. When I use the moisture reader, I try and follow a leak along the carpet but I can't not for the life of me figure where this water is coming in at. After a lot of teams each most issues seem to be leaky sun roof or leaky seal on windshield. I've cut the nipples off of my sun roof drains already. What can cause this water? have any way to test where it maybe leaking from? In the footwells there are frame bumps and the water is most wet in that location.
View 8 Replies
3 weeks ago my slave cylinder blew out in a big way so I limped it home and into the garage and onto jack stands. After tearing out the gearbox, replacing the clutch and slave, we get the thing all buttoned up and start to bleed the clutch.
We feel as though we were making progress but upon pressing the pedal it stopped halfway to the floor, pressing harder now it would go to the floor slowly, then we start to hear the dripping again coming out of the bell housing. If we push on the pedal now, it goes half way down and stops, if you keep pushing harder you can tell that we are just pushing the fluid out at the slave cylinder and it start dripping hard again.
View 6 Replies
This has been happening intermittently for a while now. The car has about 97k on it and I within the last 1000 miles have replace the timing belt, water pump, coolant temp sensor, tensioners, thermostat, and MAF (OEM BOSCH from ECS).
The car was overheating; all the cooling/timing related stuff was changed, no issues for a few weeks. Then it started misfiring and stalling like a madman in cyls 2 and 3. Ran ran if for the code pulled the MAF and sure enough it looks like the PO never cleaned it as there were probably 2mm of buildup on it; as preventative maintenance I went ahead and just replaced it completely.
Now, less than a week after I replaced the MAF the car will make random little popping noises under hard acceleration, and randomly will just completely stall; without showing the battery or check engine lights, similar to how it was stalling right before the MAF went bad. I live three miles from my office and it has happened going to and from every day for the past two weeks.
As far as I know the car is mostly stock (I purchased in in March). However it does have a knockoff BPV of some sort that I think could be causing the issue as the popping noise sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the car. What this might be (if it's not the BPV).
View 10 Replies
I have a 20th anniversary gti and the driver side door wont lock and the gas door wont unlock. The passenger door is fine. The drivers side door will not lock from the switch inside the car or the remote. I already replaced the locking module and nothing changed. I also unplugged and cleaned the 3 plugs for the drivers side wiring harness.
View 2 Replies
I changed my sparkplugs and coil packs last month. Was getting CEL light but it would go away after a while. I figured out that I had gapped my spark plugs way to small (almost touching) so I took them out two nights ago and regapped/ reseated them.
My car was running fine yesterday, but today when I started my car up, the engine was shaking a lot for about 10 seconds and the CEL was blinking. After 10 seconds the shaking and CEL went away...
It drove fine. I'm just wondering what could be throwing these CEL's and causing the shaking? Plugs are gapped to 0.32
Also, I had my timing belt and water pump replaced almost two weeks ago now. Any chance that could be lending to the problem?
My guess is that one or more cylinders are screwy. I'd rather not bring it into the vw mechanic since I'm tight on cash.
View 6 Replies
Can't manage to get it back on. Who knows the trick?
View 4 Replies
I just picked up a Black 20th tonight. All stock with 48,000 miles. I'll get some pics up asap. But for now I'm gonna be lurking around trying to work out the kinks of the car. The Temp gauge doesn't work and the passenger door only opens from the inside when first unlocked.
View 15 Replies
Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
View 14 Replies
I am having this failure in my engine that is making me crazy while I am driving. Yesterday i took my car to a shop to see what was it. my MAF was gone ( I replaced it ) and the failure still going on. The mechanic connected his computer in my car and we went for a ride. HE told me cylinder 1 misfire.
This is what i did.
-change spark-plugs position (failure still)
-change coilpack (failure still)
What can i do ?
-clean injectors
-check for any carbon in valves
View 4 Replies
