GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Malfunction Indicator Light On Dash Came On And Started Blinking
Jul 10, 2011
The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
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Just bought my first F150. 1998 XLT 4.6l automatic. 126K miles, looks like it was mostly garage kept. All power, A/C, etc.
Picked it up this evening, drove it home after dark. About a 30 mile mostly highway speed drive. Everything went fine, no problems, no hiccups......Until I turned on my last street, about a half mile from home. The battery indicator light on the dash started blinking intermittently. I didn't notice anything else, just the red battery shaped light blinking.
What would cause this, what should I check? I don't want a big problem when I haven't even transferred the title yet!
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Month ago the malfunction indicator turned on. On checking it was found that wires over the engine were eaten by rats. Reconnection of wires solved the problem.
Today the malfunction indicator light is blinking. Could it be the same wires going loose?
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So the motor has a new oil pump and pickup and was all cleaned out. Sludge is not the issue here. I'm running the royal purple filter ( the equivalent of mann 950/4) and royal purple 5w30. My heart dropped after the light came on on the first drive. I pulled out over and checked the oil and for leaks and... full with no leak. So I checked the temp and proceeded to drive home. I don't have an oil pressure gauge but I'm getting the bottom of the fill cap with oil so I know it's making it all the way to the top of the motor, and the motor is not loud or sounding starved.
Basically, I wanted a second opinion that it is most likely oil pressure sensor malfunction. Garrett 60 trim, feed and return lines are brand new and sufficient diameter.
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Airbag indicator light is on. Why that could be?
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After a full complete stop or slow down to almost complete stop upon acceleration from that stop or slow down my dash brake light blinks and yells at me for the standard amount of time then goes away. It only does it upon acceleration its weird its almost instantaneous with me pressing the gas pedal. No squealing noise or anything else is coming from the rotors and everything feels normal its just starting to get annoying as hell.
About 6 months ago I replaced my pads and rotors with the drilled and slotted kit performance-cafe offers and had it professionally installed because, I'm lazy and it would have take me years to do it. This problem only started recently so I'm pretty sure its something else or something went bad. What I should check or have specifically looked at if I take it in?
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Was driving home yesterday from work and the dash light up saying the car was overheating. Was too dark last night to look at everything so this morning I checked all the fluids and everything was OK.
Drove around the block a few times and noticed when starting the car the thermostat said normal temperature (straight up) even though it was cold, then climbed into the redzone, dropped to zero, then shot back up into the red. the upper radiator hose is hot so fluid is flowing.
Thoughts are bad water pump, thermostat, or blown head gasket after going though my repair book. Not sure how to check any of these. Also ran VAG and nothing came up.
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So I was exiting the freeway the other day. It was a long gradual sweeping left hand turn. And I was doing about 80 mph and the traction control light started flashing and the car started to hesitate a bit. What this could be. Btw I have a 2005 gli intake,exhaust,chipped. Not lowered stock bbs rc's...
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Stop check coolant light came on dash tonight. Scanned the car no code. Did a search pointed towards coolant temp sensor. Car had it replaced by vw estimate of 30,000 miles ago. I tried to see if its green top sensor appears the very bottom ring is green but top is black maybe vw's is different than ecs? Planning to do water pump, belt kit from ecs anything else i should be looking at?
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So yesterday i was driving fine and all of the sudden the car started jolting like it was going to stall and the check engine light came on. I pulled over popped the hood to see if there was anything i could see and got back in and took off no problem and the light went off. I starting pushing it and accelerating it to see if it would come back on and it didnt. Today it started doing the same thing but this time the light stays on and every time i change gears it does that jolting like its going to stall.
Its a 2004 gli 6 speed gli 1.8t ....
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What makes the brake light on the dash blink and beep after every stop? I've checked my e brake and made sure it was off so I know that cant be the issue
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on my prius c the fuel indicator started blinking on the last bar on the screen so i went to gas station to fill up. still the bar blinking but, driving after 1km makes the blink off and the bar goes up. And some times the fuel bar just goes down and goes up. What is the reason, why it happens?
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I have a 2012 Pruis C II which has a smart key and I just noticed that the Theft Deterrent indicator, page 110 in the owner's manual, has started to blink whenever the power is off. I have not noticed this in the past 5 months. Could it be that I never noticed it before or it has just started to work or?
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Well, driving down the road just like any other day. I go from 1st to 2nd gear. It feels like I missed a shift, no big deal decide to put it in 3rd. Missed 3rd gear...... weird, no big deal through it in 4th and was on my way. Got to a red light, no 1st or 2nd gear. Where 1st and 2nd gear are, it feels like there is nothing there when i tried to shift into gear. If I go into 3rd gear its now 1st gear, 4th gear is 2nd gear.Had a mechanic look at my car, and the linkage and clutch are fine. He feels that something minor broke inside the transmission.
A) What do you think might be broken?
B) How could this happen?
Driving my car like a baby, I am never hard on my clutch. No pre-warning, no bad sounds, and I have never had an issue with my transmission before. I am hoping I do not have to pull my transmission out but it looks like I may not have a choice...
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Didn't even know it existed until it started blinking, but my key fob has a tiny little red LED that just started blinking today. I am guessing it means the battery is dying.
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I have a 377 gti 2002 and just the other day i had some hesitation on take off. it sounded like the engine was cutting the fuel, at the time i had an o2 sensor code so i replaced the o2 and got new spark plugs while i was at it. it was still hesitating and cutting out so i figured it might be the maf because ive already replaced it once, i cleaned it and still doing the same things. i called my local vw/audi shop (audub) and he said it might be the pcv valve. i checked to see if there was air sucking in through the oil dip stick and the oil cap. its running just fine at idle and it seems that in first and second gear that its hesitating at 1000-2000 rpm and the higher gears are fine. could a leak cause this or is the pcv system bad?
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I've been having trouble with my rear wiper since forever. Every time i try to use the washer fluid for the rear, it doesn't squirt right and fills up the motorized lock for the trunk and malfunctions the lock for a day or 2 until it drys. I had this same problem with my old 1.8t gti, just in that case i had to have the whole lock replaced due to the damage from the washer fluid (luckily the dealer payed for it).
I was thinking maybe swapping it out for the polo rear wiper on ecs tuning.
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Out driving the other day and suddenly lost power and dash illuminated the EPC and Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Did a bee line to my home and experienced loss of power and engine vibration. At traffic lighta it emitted large quantities of white or blue smoke that smelled like gas.
Connected to VCDS and had 4 codes:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
000769 - Cylinder 1 P0301 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
004874 - Cylinder Disabling
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
My assumption was a bad coil, so I swapped them but no joy. Then decided to swap coils and plugs and observed cylinder #1 was filled with gas. Siphoned it out and it was able to fill about 1/4th of a beer bottle, or 3 ounces. Top of piston #2 looked slightly wet, but the origin could have been overflow from #1 via intake manifold. I'm thinking #1 injector stuck in the open position. Car is out of warranty so it may be on my dime unless I can convince dealer that this is power-train or emissions related. Best case, I need one or two injectors, oil replacement from gas contamination, plugs and labor. I thought about the worst case and it could be the above + a complete short block + catalytic converter. No tune, 100% stock
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So basically a couple months ago I picked up a 03 20th and GTI, I love the thing to pieces, recently I've got into drive it and I can watch my temp gauge steadily climb to 90 and stop. (before I go any further, I haven't gotten any overheat warnings or anything like that, I've just noticed my car is really hot all the time and the temp gauge goes to 90 within a minute or so of driving but doesn't go over). heat works fine, I've gone in the engine and tested a few things, tested the fans by jumping the connections, my large fan is dead but the small works fine. to my understanding, the large fan isn't used much unless it's really hot anyway. so I removed it and continued trying to find my problem, I felt the rad after letting the car run for a bit, the top half was hot but the bottom half was cool, took the hoses off and flushed my rad thinking maybe something was clogging it, water ran through fine, so I put it back together, put new coolant and tried again. same thing. so I took it for a rip and came back, obviously, the top hose and the rad were hot, but the bottom one was kinda warm. I looked for answers online but I can't seem to find anything like what I'm dealing with. the water pump seems to be working fine, I'm not sure how much flow is supposed to be coming through the Small hose at the top of the reservoir, But I checked it and it has a steady stream coming out of it. I've worked all the air out of the lines as well. The car isn't overheating and doesn't really pass the 90 mark, fans almost never come on but the small one kicks into low when I turn the AC on. which as far as I'm aware is what's supposed to happen.
The car feels like its running hot, checked everything I can think of. rad is hot on the top half and cools at the bottom, coolant has a steady flow back to the reservoir. no actual overheat warnings, I'm just wondering if these cars run hot normally or if I should be concerned.
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i just recently put in 35W 8000K hi/lo HID's in my GLI the problem is for some reason on my instrument cluster it says my hi beams are one which they are not and it is only lightly illuminated. if u turn on the hi beams the hi beam switch on the cluster turns on and gets brighter so is their any way i could have the switch completely turned off like it was with stock bulbs?
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I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
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