I have a mk4 gli with 150k. I have a rough idle and it sucks... I changed my air filter, sparkplugs, coils, changed my oil, and cleaned all my sensors... I have an apr chip on it as well but no other modifications and I only use the chip here and there...
View 8 Replies I am getting a bunch of codes...
P2293
P0300
P0507
P0087
P2187
I am trying to make my car stop idling up and down when it is warm(it does not happen when its cold). Need to fixing my car without replacing an engine.
my 20th feels a bit off when im shifting. First to second can feel very rough (just not smooth at all but it does shift easily but takes more effort for a smooth shift. second to third is also a bit off but not as much. all other gears shift normal and smooth.
View 5 RepliesI just had a 2008 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner car and it made me realize how rough our GLI's ride over bumps on the road. This thing rode like a cadillac and it was a really pleasant change here in new york city where the roads are terrible.
View 7 RepliesSo I was warming up my car after work tonight, and it was idling really rough right above 1RPMS and i heard a lil knocking noise from the engine what could have caused this? I was parked on a slight hill but i doubt that has something to do with it.
Also my buddy told me a way to see if my clutch was going out, is to try and kill the car while in gear, so i tried 1st time it shook really really bad but didn't die. So I tried again and it seemed like it was trying to catch its self and then shook bad again and then died. I did this in 1st gear just letting off the clutch before giving it gas. Does this mean my clutch could be going out already? the car only has 63k on it...
Have a jazz blue chipped tuned with giac.. It does this random times.. When I come to a red light on idle the rpms go up and down just a bet but never stalls. The car vibrates and the engine shakes a bit. Engine is stable when car is on and off. Idk if its motor mounts or what?
View 10 RepliesI did a tune up on my 20th last week, plugs and coil packs and oil change. now i have a strange idle that it wasn't doing before. i checked all the plugs over again and they are gapped fine and i have no CE light on. Every now and then my RPM meter will jump down and then right back up, same with the boost meter at the same time. i had it looked at at the garage i go to and they said they cant seem to find anything wrong. What might be causing the rough idle? keep in mind this only started happening RIGHT after the tune up.
View 24 RepliesI am after a annoying dash noise that I get when driving over any rough surfaces. I have removed all centre console and glove box and everything else around that area and I still have the noise, its like the dash is loose some where else, I have looked around for a complete dash removal instruction thread, but can not find anything??
It looks like I will have to remove the whole dash but really could do with some instructions on how to do this as I don't want to break anything!
About three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??
Just checking in to see where you'd recommend to start looking for a rough idle issue. It seems to get worse once the car fully warms up. I took a vid, and although it may not seem horrible in the video, it sometimes causes throttle lag from a stop and causes the car to get close to stalling when falling from high RPM's. Take a look at the video .....
View 2 RepliesSo my car started to misfire when under boost so I had the car scanned the first time and came up with codes P0302, P0303, and P0304 which are all for misfires. I replaced the coil packs not even a year ago and the car drove fine as long as I wasn't in boost. My rpms would fluctuate a little bit but not much. I changed the spark plugs and it seemed to work a little bit but it would still misfire under higher boost. The one thing I noticed was my vacuum sits at around 15-17 in when it used to be around 19-20. I've cleaned and disconnected the MAF and the idle didn't improved. I also cleaned the MAP sensor and AIT and the CTS is new. I've done a pressure test and I found some leaks and fixed them but still no luck. Then yesterday my car started running really rough at idle and the cel would flash while driving then stay solid while stopped. Got the car scanned today and got codes P0300, P0301, P0303, and P0304.
View 18 RepliesI've searched around for a specific list of scheduled maintenance past the 150k mile mark but couldn't find a complete or a definitive list really. As you know, Ford's list stops at 150k. So, I have an 04 XLT Screw at 162K that runs like a charm.
View 1 RepliesI have a 95 Mitsubishi diamante es 3.0 sohc auto trans. it idles rough i have replaced plugs wires cap rotor button air filter and fuel filter. checked the timming belt ok checked the fuel pressure it is 40 psi the book calls for 38 psi. if i rev it up to 2000 rpm's it smoothes out.
View 9 RepliesThe problem I have is when it is cold out under 40 degrees, my car starts rough and idles rough until it gets to temperature. My research has concluded it may be cold start. Does this sound right?
View 5 RepliesI had a friend put in oil and they put way to much in it. Now it idles really rough, smoking, and acts like it don't want to go. What can I do about this?
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 grandam 3.1 The engine idles rough but runs fine when you give it the gas. It shows no codes.
View 6 RepliesWell, a couple months ago my engine started making a noise. We located the issue to be a loose timing belt. We had it tightened, and the noise stopped, but since then it kind of acted like it was a little out of time with rough idles every now and then. This past week, I had driven my car out. I came to a 4-way stop and the car shut off on me. It would not immediately start back up so I pushed it to the side and waited a bit. It started up after sitting for a few minutes and cooling down. I got it back home and it stalled right as I was turning into my driveway (after the RPMs had lowered to idle).
A couple of days ago I set out to replace the timing belt as it seemed to me the timing was off ever since we tightened the belt and it eventually got worse, thus the stalling. I changed the timing belt, set the timing on the cams the way it shows to be set below:
I set the timing on the crankshaft pulley to the specifications found in this video:
Which is putting the crankshaft pulley on and turning it until it aligns with the '0' mark on the bottom timing cover. So I decide to start the car without anything else on to make sure its in time. It fires right up so I shut it off quickly and go about putting it all back together.
Once the car is completed, I attempt to start it again. It fires up, I back it up and it dies. It would not start back. I waited a few minutes and attempted to start it again, it started up so I pulled it back up to the same spot it was in and shut it off. Took the pieces off again, got it back to where I could line the timing up again. I again set the timing one more time to make sure. It was set correctly. I then tried starting the car again and this time it would not crank.
I gave up for now as its 30 degrees outside and I have been working on it non stop for 3 days to no avail.
02 Passat 4Motion with the 3.0L V6. I just had the car at the dealer 2 weeks ago for the 50K service and to have the temperature gauge fixed. Otherwise, the car was running just fine. At the service, they replaced the water temp sensor, performed a fuel injector service and radiator flush (both recommended).
Now two weeks later, her car rough idles, dies and has to be towed to the same dealership. They first diagnose fouled plugs which they replace gratis. They then tell me the plugs fouled because the ignition coil and wires have gone bad and need to be replaced. They want to do an additional injector/intake cleaning service. They are offering to discount the services slightly. I'm still going to be out another $850.
I called Volkswagen Customer Service and they confirmed that the ignition coils were not covered under the recall.
Something sounds "off" to me. The car was running fine before the initial service. Was the dealer just being "nice" in comparing the plug replacement or did he think that they initial fuel injector service may have fouled the plugs? I don't really want to pay 2x for the same service and now the coil/wire replacement.
I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.
The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.
Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.
The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.
I just had my timing belt, water pump, etc. replaced at a reputable indie VW shop. I just got the car back and it seems to idle a bit rough. The car used to purr like a kitten but now it shakes a bit in idle. Seems to run fine but the idle is rough. I'm going to bring it back to the shop on Monday. Can the timing be off a bit? Will it ever purr like a kitten again?
View 2 RepliesJust recently my Prius Taxi with 340,000+Km has developed a little problem,it starts fine but after 20-30 seconds it begins to feel like it's not running properly on all four cylinders,if i go to the exhaust pipe it seems like it's spluttering slightly.
Yesterday I changed the plugs,checked air filter and all connections,everything fine, when I accelerate it feels hesitant but after the car gets up to temp it seems to go away,it only happens when i start it first thing or if it's been left for a few hours, it's never had the throttle body cleaned and I'm wondering if what I'm describing is a symptom of this?