GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Lower Gas Mileage With ESP Turned On?
Apr 8, 2009
OK, maybe I'm just spooking myself, but I've been getting poorer gas mileage than usual as of late, like 4 to 5 mpg less. I used to get 30+ when I took my car to work, but lately I've been getting 25 to 26 mpg. I calculated it out and it seemed less still, though I didn't do a very accurate calculation.
The other day, I felt like my ESP was kicking in early because my tires are getting a bit old and bald, so I turned it off for my drive home. I immediately noticed that I felt like more power was available (though that was probably my mind playing tricks) and my average MPG for the trip shot up to the 28.5 mpg range with some spirited driving.
Where the ESP or ASR has caused lower MPG? I replaced my MAF sensor recently because it had gone bad, or at least I was fairly certain it had, but now I'm not sure. I also have coil-packs due in the next few thousand miles or so as well, but this seems sporadic. I diagnosed the MAF (which the car was getting around 22MPG before the change) by disconnecting it. It shot up to the 30MPG range with it disconnected, but thinking back, my CEL as well as the ESP light came on. I'm wondering if my ECU turned off the ESP with the MAF disconnected and that is what increased my mileage, not the bad MAF...
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New to my GLI.. Noticed the clock and mileage still display while the car is off and key is out. Is that normal? seems that its in some weird accessory mode like some cars when you turn the key back from starting position. I can even turn the radio on.
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Some questions I have regarding he bad gas mileage my car is getting. Up until winter, my car (2005 mk4 gli) was getting 300-330 miles to the tank. I thought was reasonable, about 150 to a half tank. The setup is pretty normal, apr stage 1 tune (87,89,93,100 octane) with bolt ons (upgraded n75, DV, things like that), a cat back exhaust (unsure of brand), 90k miles was just passed last week. Timing will be done in the spring.
The car has no stutters upon acceleration and idle is staying pretty consistent about 900 rpms. I know there is an exhaust leak, at the flex pipe as I seafoamed the car this fall and discovered that. My question is, which down pipe to you suggest to be the best for the money? I've seen a bunch of different brands, weather it be 42dd, ecs, places of the such.
Would it be cheaper and more efficient to just get a turbo back or stick with the cat back and stay happy? Also, I'm assuming if the leak is in the flex pipe, that the down pipe needs replaced all together. The car DID have a check engine light, for the leak. Since winter the cel has gone away and the gas mileage dropped drastically. When I get a new down pipe or fix the exhaust leak, I also want to change the rear O2 sensor. I believe personally this maybe causing my gas mileage info.
Lastly I have a fuel filter to replace the oem one that's been in there. The same thing happened to me last winter and when summer came around, the gas mileage went up to normal 300-330. I drove to h2oi and was getting well over 30 mpg. Now I'm lucky to get 18mpg.
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What these codes mean and what I need to do to fix this?
Codes:
P0141 o2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2
P0138 o2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2
P0036 H02S heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 2
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I just put on some brand new Bilstein shocks/struts with new mounts and some Neuspeed springs. It seems like the rear sits lower than the front. Maybe some polo bushings to bring the front down a bit? No stereo stuff of anything in the trunk..
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I want to put lower grill fogs in my GLI, but was concerned about them interfering with the intercooler system. I currently have an upgraded SMIC, but was concerned the lower grill fogs would impede a significant airflow to the SMIC.
Additionally, I do plan on going to a FMIC in the near future and wasn't sure if people were able to run the fog lights while still having space for the FMIC piping.
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For some reason My car won't boost like it used to in the upper gears. 1st, 2nd and even 3rd I can still boost around 18 but once I go 4th, 5th, 6th my boost get lower and lower to the point the I get only 10psi in 6th gear. The car also seems slower a doesn't spool that fast like it used. i checked most of the hoses, even my intercooler pipes which were leaking before and everything is tight. Could it be my DV which is still stock or should I look someplace else?
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Recently purchased an '05 GLI (my second mk4) and it has the stock RCs and Eagle F1 tires. They are good on tread, wear pattern, and pressure, but seem to be making an awful lot of road noise, especially at lower speeds and decelerating to around 20 mph. as I read in one post "it sounds like a semi-truck". When I test drove the car it was still in winter mode and there were no noises or pull and so I do not suspect any mechanical issues.
It does not result in any real vibration that you can see in the wheel, but you feel the buzzing. the steering is straight and true as well with no pulling left or right. IT'S JUST LOUD!! lifted the front end and shook the front wheels. the bearings seem nice and tight with no wiggle. I was going to remove the tires and rotate, or put on the spare to see for a diff, but the BBS tool for the center caps is a POS and I couldn't get them off. So ultimately I'm looking for some vortex advice on this noise, its causes, remedies, and and anything else I should be looking for.
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Whenever I take a turn my seat slides side to side, both bolts are tight in the front. Is there a way to tighten the lower half of the seat so it doesn't move?
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After installing my FK Streetline X Coilovers I noticed my rear driver side was sitting lower and and the wheel had more camber.
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I've never had this happen before or never heard it. but yesterday for the first time as I was driving I could hear a really tin canny sounding rattle. I'm not sure if it was from the wheel well area or under the steering wheel in the dash. I only noticed it when I was at lower RPMs in second gear. (And its not the typical MKIV rattle sounds)...
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I am installing my coilovers on my gli and I have everything installed but the passenger side coilover. I cant even remove the old strut because the damn lower strut mounting bolt is seized and I've been trying for hours to remove it at no avail. I have used pb blaster, my heat gun, and my sweat. I dont have impact tools, just my ratchet..
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Finally decided to rain in CA today and noticed after I got to work that my EPC light had turned on. Car doesn't wanna boost and has very minimal/close to none power.
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My 2005 VW GLI has a fuel smell when I turn on the car ... I think it might be running rich or something I don't know.. All I know is I think the fuel and air mixture is not right ... What should I do? what should I check? will a re-tune do anything?
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Airbag indicator light is on. Why that could be?
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When I turn my wheel, i hear this sound like im rubbing my lip but not as loud.... Is this something I should be worried about... or am I just rubbing my fender lining?
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When i turn my car in the morning it whistles very loudly then after it warms up for about a min or so the noise goes away..
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Today I got my car inspected (05 gli) and after the inspection, when I was driving home and went to a gas station. When I turned my car off and got out the radio (monsoon) stayed on. Then later when I opened my door the dome light did not come on. Passenger door turns light on and shuts radio off. I believe it is a door sensor? Where is this located and how do I change it or any other possibilities of what it could be? I did some research, and I have no issues locking the doors (security light blinks) and the passenger door works fine. Hoping there is a way to fix this without buying a whole new lock mechanism.
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I went to the local dealer at about 6K miles to get the free 5K service. The invoice said synthetic service, so it should be the 0W-20. Now the average mileage since the last fill-up is lower by at least 3-4 MPG. My driving habits haven't changed. I inflated the tires to above 40 PSI. I looked at the oil. It is medium amber colored. (I forgot to look at it before the oil change. )
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I had made a trip down to Branson Missouri for Christmas, which is about 1000+ miles round trip, and the milage seemed to be slightly lower than normal on the computer, about 23 mpg. I went to Iowa after that for Christmas and filled up my tank once when I was there, I was sure to get 91 octane gas. Then after doing a lot of in town driving it went all the way down to about 11 mpg. It jumped back up to 17.9 as I was driving back up to the Twin Cities and hasn't moved after doing some in town driving since then.
The tank seemed to match the computer as far as how fast it dropped, but I'm curious if there's anything I should be looking for. I have a K and N filter in there, and it's only been used 10,000 miles or so, but I cleaned it anyways, since there were some bugs and small leaves in it (there was also a large black spot on it that didn't look like dust or dirt, more like something oily, if that means anything). I'm planning on filling it up a couple more times and seeing what happens before I start going to my mechanic, but I'm switching jobs and will be driving it for work, so I'd like my vehicle to be running well.
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Experienced lower mileage after changing the plugs at about 120k miles?
In the 10 months (23.6k miles) since I had the dealer change the plugs, I have averaged 43.3 mpg overall.
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