GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Little Sluggish - Gauge Hitting 9 Lbs While Usually Hits 11 Lbs?
Sep 17, 2011
Driving into work this morning I noticed that my car was a bit sluggish. So in the name of science (mainly curiousity) I decided, that I would try to punch it. Came to find out that my girl is runnin a little sluggish. Turbo was pulling as hard as it normally does, and my gauge was saying that im only hitting 9lbs when usually its around 11lbs. Could this be a sign of my turbo going out and now is time for a k04-22 or is it time to change the springs in my 007?
by the way I just rolled over 113k. had all the services done at 104k
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My 20th just hit 107k and in the past couple days I have noticed that my car is somewhat sluggish compared to normal and there is also a VERY audible whine when I take off from a stop.
The same thing happened to my friend's Turbo 300zx when his turbo went out and I think that may be whats happening to mine.
This is the perfect excuse for me to replace my K03 with a more respectable turbo like a K04 hybrid or possibly a BT setup. What I'm wondering is how expensive these options are and how worth it are they. I know you can get away with not upgrading certain things when going BT, but I want to do things right to avoid problems down the road
SO....
I currently have Stage 1 APR software, DG Short shifter, and and itg SRI.
I'm not trying to build a 500hp fwd beast, but what all is considered necessary to run a BT without issues and what would the price be? Again, estimates are totally fine, I can locate parts if i know what to look for
And lastly: What is the general opinion of the ATP Eliminator? I haven't heard much about it and all of my research is fairly inconclusive. I'm just trying to weigh my options.
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I just installed a neuspeed ram air intake on my gli. I noticed that top end seems a little more sluggish. Is there anything i need to do? I have heard you should disconnect your battery for a few to reset your computer.
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I recently just put a set of b&g rs's on the car and now it appears that my 3'' exhaust is hitting and rattling/striking the bend that goes over the rear axle, I know I can raise the car and keep it from doing such but that kinda defeats the purpose of lowering the car, Just trying to see if there is something out there, like polyurethane hangers or something along those line that might alleviate the problem.
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I just recently bought a 337 edition gti and I absolutely love it. But the guy I bought it from says that it was chipped but he doesn't know what brand tune it is. But the problem, like the title suggests, is that in first gear the car pulls incredibly hard but as soon as I shift into second I lose all my momentum and it just feels sluggish.everyone that I've seen on these threads have said that I should be getting the most power I'm second and third gear. Is this tune just not a good one? Could there be something more?
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I'm not sure what to make of this ... I disconnected the battery before installing . The gauge seems to be reading correct based on what i researched. If there was a slight leak would it throw the CEL ? is it maybe just a one time thing that needs to be cleared afterwards ? Car drives fine and I plan on trying to stop at autozone to get there crapo freebie scan . Kinda annoyed considering everything went smoothly up until I drove the car more then 50 miles .
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I need to know how to install an oil pressure gauge...or what is the location on the oil filter flange where this thing gets installed...
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I just replaced my turbo inlet hose because I was losing boost due to a crack in the OEM one. After I replaced it, my speedometer stopped working and my gas gauge goes up and down when I drive it. I saw a sensor broken off when I looked under hood but I couldn't tell which one it was. Besides obviously replacing that sensor. I'm not sure if the two are correlated.
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I don't think this is normal since my 01 2004.5 GLi go all the way... Note that i took this picture right after i "full" fueled the car (Just drove 2.3miles)...
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Car now has about 67,000 miles on it. I drove it from the bay to Lake Tahoe 2 weeks ago, which is when I first noticed the light. I tried to go to a couple of autozone's to get the code read but none of them would do it. I also noticed that now on my boost gauge that i am only reading 4-5psi under load, so its not quite feeling like i'm getting as much power as before. What a common issue is at about this many miles on a 1.8t car? (GLI)
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I've had this problem a while but now i want to get around to fixing it.. my boost gauge is always at 0 now and sometimes when i drive the car it starts working but it starts like sticking... like when i didn't have my chip it would go up and down really fast between 10 - 15psi... i heard from a friend that you can take it apart and re-adjust some screws or something so it works like a charm... right now its just like frozen at 0 psi when i drive it doesnt go down or up.
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Ok I was driving home right know from work, and looking at the speedometer, i notice that my temperature gauge turns off (the needle goes all the way down). what can it be?
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I am wanting to install a oil pressure gauge to go along side my boost gauge in my double pod on top of my steering column, how to do this?
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I finally got my 20th to run right. But now and ever since I bought it the gas needle keeps going down and back to normal every time i make a sudden move or go through a bump. What could be causing it?
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I have a 2005 mkiv GLI and my gas gauge, temp gauge, and information display stopped working when the car is running. They work when the car is on auxiliary but not while it's running. The lights all work on the cluster all the time but the needles don't move as soon as the car turns on.
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Last night I went to drive my car and my coolant light went on. I checked the overflow and it was very low. There was barely any left in the overflow. I thought this was strange because I had just checked the coolant a couple days ago. The coolant that was in my car was an orange color (after searching I realized that I think this is g12 which I was unfamiliar with). Before searching I added Prestone 50/50 pre diluted green coolant. The bottle said it was mixable with any type of coolant color or kind. After reading more threads I'm seeing that I think the g12 just contracted with the cold weather and I should of just left everything. I have barely driven the car since adding the prestone. Am I doing harm mixing in the prestone? If so, How can I fix this?
On another note, With the cold weather my temp gauge seems to be acting a little funny. Once the car is up to operating temperature the gauge will then drop around 40-50 degrees. It will then stay like this while im driving, but then will go back to normal once the car is stopped and running.
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I just installed a eurojet race FMIC (bumper fitting was horrible but thats another story) and now my outside temperature and mpg readings are all off on the cluster computer. The temperature actually just rises when i start driving and the mpg doesnt change at all? Should I just disconnect the battery so it resets? ]
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I just noticed recently, that while accelerating, the needle on my boost gauge never really holds. It flutters back and forth between psi throughout the acceleration, rather than holding. This also occurs while I am idle and have the A/C on, the needle flutters back and forth. I have the stage I set-up Revo software which I have had for a while.
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My sister has a 2004 gli 1.8t with 65k. The temperature gauge says its overheating, the cel is on, but the car appears to run fine, the fluid levels are appear to be fine, and you cant see any leaks. Her fiance thinks its water pump issues...
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Okay I just installed a boost gauge in my car and when I cranked it up it said airbag fault and the airbag light is on now.. What it could be?
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So i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
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