GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Key FOB Intermittently Works - Sometimes Locks Doors / Sometimes Does Not
Oct 8, 2010
As my title explains I've been having some strange electrical glitches that are annoying me. I checked the Door Fuse and it's fine. I was going to pull the + Terminal on the battery for 15minutes to try and reset the ECU to see if that fixes this bug. It's pretty strange and I'd like to fix it.
Also, I'm I right about just pulling the + terminal on the Battery to reset ECU? I did this once before a while ago but don't remember. I just remember I didn't have to unlock the stereo or anything which I've seen mentioned can happen after a power cycle.
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Just want to make sure I'm naming the part correctly. It's a pump that between the radiator and the block. It stays on after the car is turned off. This is on a 2005 GLI 5 speed tip.
Lately, its not turning on. If it does, it's just for a brief moment and then turns off. After some searching, I've read post of other asking about by-passing it. Would that be a benefit? What's gained from that? I understand the pump is on while the engine is running, does it provide additional cooling? I'm planning on checking it out this weekend and wondering if it could be rebuilt? Could you guys indicate which vendor on the web has the best price?
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I just purchased a 2005 F150 (4.6L / 4 door). The lot I purchased it from had picked it up at auction. Tell-Tell signs indicate it was a repo. (Only one key, no fobs, locking fuel filler door jimmied and spring removed, scratches on upper corner of driver's side door and rubber bent back.
The power locks switch on arm rest works on all doors except driver's. The drivers door does lock and unlock manually. I am wanting a good hypothesis before I begin tearing into the door panel.
If the latching mechanism was damaged, it wouldn't lock manually, right? If the electronics were damaged the other doors wouldn't work right? So, my hypothesis is the actuator on driver's door. Do I start searching for/locating possible replacement parts?
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on my 04 supercab f150. one moment door locks work, the next nothing. started this weekend. its a bone stock truck with 128000 miles. sometimes work sometimes don't. have wiggled harness and connections outside the door. worked fine, pulled it out of the shop and parked it now not working again.
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I have this problem with both the key fobs provided with my 2007 UK spec. Santa Fe 2.2crdi: The fob works only intermittently to lock/unlock the doors. I have replaced the CR2032 batteries, and the red light on the fob works as well. Is there a sensor that needs cleaning/adjusting?
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I have a 2011 Corolla S with 58k miles and 3 of 4 doors locks are intermittently starting to fail. I have seen videos on YouTube of the OEM actuators being rebuilt with the motor being replaced. I am hoping to avoid having to pay $200+ for each of the locksets.
I can find multiple motors that "fit", but they all have different size motors and shaft sizes. What are the specs on the replacement motor? I have done a search on the Toyota nation app and cannot find any posts on this.
The part I found is Machi brand, model # FC-280PC-22125.
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I've been driving my 04.5 glI no problem for about 20xxx, right after waterfest it started doing something weird. when i get into the higher rpms(5 and up) it locks me out of gear for about two seconds then lets me go in. sometimes it will happen when i'm casually driving also i've grinded 3rd twice since this started happening..... What it could be? could it be from the R32 shift lever?
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I'm having an issue with my heater/fan. When I started her up this morning, I noticed my heater (and fan for that matter) only work on the highest setting (4). It still blows hot, and runs at normal temp, but none of the vents are functional unless its blasting!
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It doesn't matter how i park my car, if its parked down hill it will leak into the front seats, if its parked up hill it will leak into the back seats. If its parked with the drivers side door up, water will collect on the running boards, then seap through the running boards, through the door gasket and it will puddle on the carpet, its gotten so bad lately with rain all week that the water level has now raised above the carpet and there is a nice pool started in my back seat.
I've checked all the door gaskets, there is no rips tears, and absolutely no reason for it to be leaking. I don't see how it can leak through both doors in any and every spot possible.
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This morning I go to work with no problems. Then at lunch I go to my car and get some things with no problem. Then of course it starts pouring down rain just before its time for me to leave to go home and the car is dead. Not just a little dead but completely. It doesnt even have enough power to unlock the doors or display anything on the dash. I checked the normal things in the pouring rain hoping to find a quick fix but it was like a small hurricane. The only thing I found was a small amount of corrosion on the positive terminal. The battery is less than six months old and yes I did check to make sure the lights were off. If it ever stops raining I'm going to go see if it will jump. I've had way to many problems with this car but I've never seen it dead like if the battery was completely disconnected.
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All the sudden i cant lock or unlock my doors with my fob.
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Last night was the 1st night my car spent OUTSIDE the garage and it POURED! Anyhow, the door ajar symbol is lit in my instrument cluster but all the doors are shut. I did the walk around, made sure all the doors and hatch are closed. The symbol would disappear for a minute then reappear. Whats up with that? I never came across a problem like that.. Where are the sensors so I can check them? Are they the little things that stick out underneath the door?
[URL] .....
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I have an 04 and the power door locks will not work. The hatch does lock and unlock but everything else just stares at me staring at it. When the fob or inside switches are used I can hear a relay clicking inside the Body Ecu / Fuse Box. I am thinking that is the problem as all fuses are good.
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My key fob will lock my doors and open my trunk but the open function is not working . Change battery or is the fob bad? Is this a warranty. Repair/replace item?
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Everything in my 2001 Aurora runs/work fine - 2 days ago however, without a warning, the power locks and doors went out. What this might be ? I checked fuses and relays but not circuit breakers. Is faulty wiring more the likely the culprit ? All other electrical systems are fine.
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I have a 2013 ES350 with 56k miles. Key fob opens and locks all doors except the driver door. I called the Lexus dealer in town and they said its probably the door lock acuator that needs to be replaced. It's out of warranty since it's over 50k miles. Is it possible to replace this yourself or is there some kind of recall for this. The car is only two years old and it seems ridiculous that something like this would already go out on a Lexus.
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Driver's door can't be opened. This 2005 Kia Optima EX has power door locks. It does NOT have rods that you can manually pull up to open it or push down to lock it. There are two ways to lock on unlock all the doors....with rocker switch on the driver's armrest or by pushing or pulling a small "button" located under the inside door latch to lock or unlock the door. When the driver's door gets stuck in the locked position I can hear the electric "actuator" inside the door panel as they lock or unlock the doors.
Using the "button" under the inside door handle doesn't work but if I rock the rocker switch from lock to unlock while my wife pulls on the outside door handle the door will eventually come open. The driver's lock/unlock button is operating incorrectly. When the rocker switch is pressed down to open the door, the button moves all the way back but then moves about about an eighth of an inch forward. The right side door buttons don't do this....they move all the way back or to the open door position and stay there. So, is the actuator in the door bad, is the rocker switch bad, or does= some electrical device, (a solenoid?) etc, bad that is not even located in the door?
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Okay, I have checked the clutch issue and I have read the sticky damper door thread but, non of these seem to fit my problem? The a/c blows cold when it has a mind too but, in a mere few seconds it will blow like you turned the temp control to boil. go a little while then the a/c blows ice cold again. The compressor never misses a beat on the the back and forth.
I am headed out with the family for a 1500 mile trip in two weeks and a/c would keep the masses happy!
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Car worked fine yesterday. Today, I walk to my car, unlock the doors, lights work but engine won't crank. just a few very light clicks (3 -5 clicks quickly, wasn't really counting, a relay? solenoid? )
Lights work, horn works radio works. try to unlock the rear doors with the remote, but it won't. Try to open trunk with remote and it works.
Call roadside assistance, attach a battery jumper to the battery and same thing. engine doesn't crank, windows won't roll down, doors won't unlock or lock. but trunk works. radio works, lights work.
I wanted to think starter or starter solenoid but the issues with the door and windows have me puzzled. Its a 2001.5 passat v6, 5 speed, engine light is not on.
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Smart key not smart anymore, it won't start the car unless I inserted the remote unit to the key slot underneath the steering column.
Smart key works with doors, trunk.
1. checked the Smart Function is On (KEY button not depressed)
2. Change new 3V battery inside the remote
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My radio works only intermittently. It may pop on a minute or so after starting the car, it may come on immediately or it may not come on and the digital display does not even light. What is strange is that the clock appears to be keeping time even when nothing appears to be working. It may work for a day or two then not work for a day or two. I have pulled it out of the dash to check connections in the back and they appear to be okay. I find this rather baffling. It is a Ford Ranger with a factory installed radio..
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