GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Interior Lights Stay On After Clutch Replacement?
Sep 9, 2011
I just had the clutch replaced and immediately noticed the door open light on the dash wouldn't go off. I tried all the door, hatch and hood to check and it stayed on. Even if I turned off the interior lights, the interior marker light on the bottom corner of the passenger side door only will stay on, the drivers side goes off. I already called the place where the clutch was done and he said to bring it in and he'll take a look at it....which I'm doing today..... What the cause could be. Maybe the door switch is faulty?
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I have been having an issue with my interior lights, namely all the dash lights (cluster, climate, stereo, etc)
I have to keep switching the euro switch back and forth until it finally switches on the interior lights. The headlights still work but not the fogs, unless the interior lights go on.
What this could be? Perhaps an electric problem? Faulty euro switch?
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I had my first and second gear go out on my gti over a month ago, it sat at my house for a little over 2 weeks. When I finally was able to take it to the transmission shop it needed a jump. A week later my transmission was rebuilt and clutch replaced. Car needed a jump when leaving the shop too.
I took it home and a bit later tried to go somewhere and... nothing. Completely dead, won't charge or be jumped. Sunroof was half open and windows cracked. Rained that night so I had a make-shift cover with trash bags and a container top. (I don't know if this matters but just in case it may be water related.)
The next day I got a new battery and changed it. Car worked fine for 2 days. This morning I tried to start it and it fluttered and battery completely shut off. Jumped it and tried to take it around the block after few and it shut off mid drive, but was able to restart while rolling. Then when I pulled over and hit the four ways it immediately shut everything off again. I had someone come with cables so I could just get it home, and as soon as I connected the red cable to + it sparked and the lights and everything turned on, started right up. (the jumper cables were not connected to anything on the other side)
Finally I got it back home and when I pulled into the driveway and stopped I hit the window buttons and boom, everything off again.
Confusing story, but what could be wrong? I included everything just in case. (I have 2 keys, one which keyless entry works and one which it doesn't as of recent. I have used both. Don't know if immobilizer could be it either.)
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20th Anniversary sat for 2 months and battery was flat when I went to start it today. I jumped it and got it running. However, when I went to close the hatch it will not stay latched. The latch on the hatch is hitting the striker on the lip of the trunk, but it just won't stay shut. Is any part of the latching mechanism electronically or vacuum operated?
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Does the dome light and interior light stay lit in the car...luminescent kind of thing. I just do not recall anything like it. although my new car does email me when I forget to lock my doors, so who knows. Any reason for this, way to change it?
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So my car started to misfire when under boost so I had the car scanned the first time and came up with codes P0302, P0303, and P0304 which are all for misfires. I replaced the coil packs not even a year ago and the car drove fine as long as I wasn't in boost. My rpms would fluctuate a little bit but not much. I changed the spark plugs and it seemed to work a little bit but it would still misfire under higher boost. The one thing I noticed was my vacuum sits at around 15-17 in when it used to be around 19-20. I've cleaned and disconnected the MAF and the idle didn't improved. I also cleaned the MAP sensor and AIT and the CTS is new. I've done a pressure test and I found some leaks and fixed them but still no luck. Then yesterday my car started running really rough at idle and the cel would flash while driving then stay solid while stopped. Got the car scanned today and got codes P0300, P0301, P0303, and P0304.
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Today I got my car inspected (05 gli) and after the inspection, when I was driving home and went to a gas station. When I turned my car off and got out the radio (monsoon) stayed on. Then later when I opened my door the dome light did not come on. Passenger door turns light on and shuts radio off. I believe it is a door sensor? Where is this located and how do I change it or any other possibilities of what it could be? I did some research, and I have no issues locking the doors (security light blinks) and the passenger door works fine. Hoping there is a way to fix this without buying a whole new lock mechanism.
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What would cause the interior lights and mirror lights to never turn off? Just started doing this? Also the radio is not working? All of this started today. It drained the battery and I had to jump it fir my wife after work. Is there a module or something that can go bad? I think the jettas r notorious for this kind of issue and it's a module in the door or something.
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Yesterday I changed two burned out light-bulbs in the a/c control panel. When I tested them after dark they worked as designed. An hour or so later my brother-in-law called me to tell me my interior lights were on. When I walked out to check the lights were off. This morning my wife drove the truck to the store and called me to tell me the interior lights were staying on. Didn't have this problem before replacing those burned out bulbs.
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I recently got the GTI 1.8L 337 with 64,000 on it. It had been sitting, with daily start-ups, for about 8 months until the ALT was replaced. I've been driving it for a month with no problems until last week. At first I noticed the clutch pedal would pause on the way up for a split second then tap the bottom of my shoe. I thought maybe it needed adjustment but nothing serious. A few days ago the pedal would stick at 3/4 of the way up, and stay there most of the time unless I raised it with my foot, till the car warmed up a bit. Yesterday and today the pedal started to stick 1/4 of the way up, unless raised with my foot, at the morning start-up and will only come up 3/4 when warm. It also wont go into reverse at initial start-up until it gets really warmed up, shifting into other gears is fine. I've had no problems or real sounds shifting into any other gears, though out of 1st has been a little jumpy.
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Today I went to start my car and let it warm up and everything worked fine and it started regularly but when I went to go drive the car and put the clutch in the pedal didn't return and I could not put it into gear, need to identify the problem.
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My wife was driving home and was exiting the freeway, downshifted and then no response from the clutch or gearbox. It would move left to right but not go into any gear with the car on. No real pressure in the clutch pedal either. With the car off you are able to find all the gears but when you start the car in gear with the clutch down it just jumps forward and dies. No smoke or burning smells either way and the pedal does come up by itself. Pushed the car into the driveway and its goin to the shop tomorrow morning.
With the search button so far: master/ slave cylinder, full clutch problem, air in brake/clutch lines, shifter linkage bracket
I don't think it's the slave cylinder as the pedal is NOT stuck to the floor, but I am not handy with cars, only motorcycles. First thing I checked was the linkage bracket, which seemed to be fine and as I stated, I was able to get in gear while car was off. Brake fluid was almost full but i know that doesnt rule out air in the lines.
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We were headed home the clutch pedal went soft... Ok, I thought it's either the clutch master or slave. I get it home and replace the master and after bleeding I had good pedal feel.
Great I thought, I got lucky and it was only the master. Drive it around for a bit and get on the highway and just as I was about to downshift the pedal went flat to the floor again.
Well after pumping the pedal until it had good feel again I got it home and bleed it a couple more times just to make sure I got all the air out. Drove it again. Same thing, after a little while the pedal gets soft again.
Now before I go and replace the slave is it possible I have a faulty master? Having issues after replacing the master?
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So I am pretty sure its my clutch that is the problem, here's what happens: When I go into second gear, it doesn't really grind.. but its tough to get it into gear and its only with second gear. sometimes it will go right in and others i have to double clutch. when i double clutch it goes in smooth every time. now I don't think it would be syncros because I am pretty sure if it was that it would do it every time I shift? It only does it while its cold or hasn't been drove in awhile.. but after i drive it around its fine so I am pretty sure its the clutch. Second thing, what is an upgraded clutch that is good for these 6 speed transmissions?
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Noticed recently that my clutch is starting to slip. It only seems to happen when I'm cruising in 6th and floor it. When the boost spikes, the revs will shoot up ~750 rpm and then settle back down before the car starts to pull. It is chipped Unitronic Stage 2 with some other bolt-ons.
What I'm wondering is, should I just drive it like this until it really starts to go, or should I replace it now? And what are my options for a new clutch? I don't want to big turbo this car, so the most it could get is a few more bolt-ons. I'd like a stock feeling clutch.
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I just put a stage 1 clutch in my 20th anniversary. When i was taking the transmission out, i dropped the hydraulic clutch line and all of the fluid spilled out. I got the whole thing done, and bled the clutch line and topped off the reservoir. I started the car and the clutch pedal had, what felt like the right amount of pressure. More than the stock, but not significantly. When i went to put it in gear, its like there is no clutch, just grinding and it doesn't go in to anywhere. I can cycle through the gears with the car off and like i said, the clutch has the right pressure and everything.
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2004 Crewcab Lariat longbed 4wd. My interior and cargo lights stay on. I got in the other day and opened the truck to start it and when I closed the door the lights stayed on. I did a search and tried the following:
Lubed all the doors
Pulled door switches apart to verify operation
Disconnected the remote keyless entry module
Disconnected the instrument panel
Disconnected light switch
I found the following:
When I alarm the factory alarm with remote the alarm chirps once with doors closed, twice with them open. Looks like door switches are working.
Disconnected light switch. Lights stayed on
Disconnected Keyless entry module, lights stayed on
If I disconnect the instrument panel I can hear a relay switch. That tells me the relay isn't stuck. The lights do turn off at this point and will go off when I pull the fuse for the instrument panel.
Door switches all seem to work fine as eveidenced by factory alarm operation and the door opening indicator turns off.
Not sure where else to look and my Google Fu is not very strong today as I could not find anything like this issue.Is there another module that could be bad?
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Noticed the other day my clutch pedal trim is coming off... What did you do to fix it?
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I just bought a 2005 GLI and when i test drove it the Clutch was extremely light when I shifted, I have never drove a gli before. Now after researching and further driving i think the clutch is going out. am i right? if so, should i bother putting in a new stock clutch kit or should i go stage one etc...
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I recently was driving home from a buddy's house, when at the light i go to put the car in 1st gear and it was way harder than normal. I kept driving just to try and get home but it was so bad that i never went past 3rd gear.. I'm pretty sure the clutch went out, since it was extremely hard to get the clutch to engage to get it from gear to gear, and i basically have to turn the car off to get it to stop so.....
I'm pretty new too the vw game, and don't know of any good companies as far as clutch kits. Im looking to buy somethings either oem like or a little better but with the same feel. also, just a Pressure plate and clutch. I doubt the flywheel is damaged.
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I keep finding air every time i bleed my clutch. I am not losing fluid but i can not figure out whats causing my problems. The pedal is soft at first and then gets harder and it sometimes needs pumped before i change gears or to even get into gear. I am afraid its the slave but i also just may have air in the system.
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