GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: How To Reattach The Rubber Cover
Jun 22, 2010
My GTI has a problem i don't know how to fix. Shift knob on the automatic mk4 (2005) GTI, has a rubber piece that covers the ther gears when you are in the one of your choices. Such as if you were to be in drive then park reverse and neutral would be covered by the rubber sheet, as would the gears under drives such as the 4th 3rd and 2nd gears. That sheet of rubber on the car has been unattached from the front side of the sifter so that there is a hole in front of the shifter if I were in drive, the rubber piece that covers that hole was jammed into the front part of the gearbox (directly under the shift knob when in park).
I managed to get the rubber piece out from under there with a pair of very fine pliers. now my problem is how to attach the sheet back to the front of the shift knob. the rubber sheet seems to be very loose and when it is moved side to side you can see that there is some sort of zipper pattern along each edge of the rubber cover. MY QUESTION IS!! how to reattach the rubber cover?? or do i have to take that section apart and replace it?
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I find that the Rubber stock ones are not grippy enough. I have used the turner motorsport ones on my bmw but not sure if they will retro-fit on my 337.
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Can't manage to get it back on. Who knows the trick?
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Trying to do new boot kit on inner cv joint. I have the ball and cage type inner joint. The joint cap comes off really easy (and a new one comes in the boot kit). The boot cover doesn't come off so easy (and there is no replacement in the boot kit). Bentley's and pretty much every other source of info says to carefully drive off the boot cover to remove cage. But they all pretty much gloss over how to do this carefully. I've hit it a couple of times with a screwdriver blade and hammer, but it's not budging. Trying not to hit it too hard.
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2007 2.4L Camry LE.
Took the plastic engine cover off and found that there are two rubber gasket/washers that stayed stuck to the valve cover (around the threaded rods that stick out of the cover). When I tried to remove them, they disintegrated. Now, my plastic engine cover is having problems tightening on properly, if that makes sense.
So, if you look at the engine cover, you take the two nuts off and remove the cover. There are rubber isolators/gasket that is there. Mine have disintegrated. Call to the Dealership says I have to replace the entire cover as you cannot get those separately.
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This may be my only chance to do a step-by-step ...
Tools Required : Fingers (preferably attached to hands)
Step One : Check diver side floorboard for cleanliness (people are going to see it in the pics)
Don't worry about passenger side. There will be no pics of it.
Step Two (fingers required for steps two through seven and ten) : Vacuum driver floorboard since there will be pictures made of it.
Step Three : Remove old, worn out brake pedal cover.
Step Four : Remove aftermarket brake pedal cover from ridiculously oversized Amazon box that's still in the passenger side floorboard.
Step Five : Take a picture of the old and new covers together to make fun of the old one.
Step Six : Install new brake pedal cover.
Step Seven : Remove new brake pedal cover and re-install right side up..
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I have the 2014 RX350 and backed out of my garage with the door partially open.
It took off the Antenna "fin" which is on the top in the rear. There was a black piece underneath.
Need to determine if the part needs to be replaced or if I can just re-attach? I've included some pictures....
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The bluetooth microphone located on the roof (right next to the lights) suddenly fell off while I was driving and is now hanging from a couple wires - any way on re-attaching it to the roof?
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I have an intermittent brake noise, which sounds like rubber rubbing against rubber. There is no discernable effect on the brakes, pulling, etc. My mechanic can find noting wrong with the brakes.
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I want a 20th AE & have seen pics that say ESP on a button next to the hazard & others say ASR. I know that their was one option for the car: ESP. So what's ASR? Is one better than the other? Is it the same? I've heard that the ESP sucks for autocross. Is this true?
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I was driving at about 60mph in 4th gear and knocked it into 2nd and the rpm's hit the max and the car shut off and I have not been able to get it started. I have compression, fuel, and spark . I've checked oil and don't have any coolant in and nor did I have any oil in my coolant. When I try to start it it try's to start but won't turn over so .
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Driving home from work, I was about 5 minutes from home, got to a light only to not be able to go into 1st. I popped it into 2nd and drove home like that pretty much. Car will let me get into reverse and all other gears.
I can put the shifter towards first but it doesn't fully go in and when I gave it gas it would let me start to creep and then grind a little and pop out.
Heres a pic for your click .....
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I was searching but I can't find any DYI's on turning your Daytime Running Lights off on our cars. I don't feel like buying a euro switch right now. How to do this or has done this to their vw's?
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I was following the directions on the APR site to remove the ECU and it seems to not make sense. Saying the ECU is on the passenger side underneath the molding....
is the ECU in the center?
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I've had the leak for a long time now possibly from when I've gotten it... anyway when I first bought it I drove it a lot, like 8k miles in 6 months. During that time I went through a qt of oil about every week and a half. Now the last 3 months I've been barely driving it due to life changes so I'm barely putting oil in I'll go weeks sometimes of checking the level and it'll be fine. This leak has to relate with how often its driven and maybe hot?
I've had the car up multiple times to try and find the spot all I know is it's behind the engine below the valve cover gasket and above or near the turbo area(I've only owned my first VW this 20th for less then a yr so I'm still learning)
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I get up to go to work today and the car runs fine, a few hours later i get back in, try to put it in reverse, and nothing.. it wont let me shift in after i push it down. So i push it back in neutral and drive away.. every gear works fine, when i got home i took off the boot, tried to see if anything was loose, shake it a few times and out of nowhere first and second give. They were working perfectly 5 min before, and now they just feel really loose, but every other gear works fine, so now I have no reverse, 1st or 2nd. Did I just knock something out of alignment or is the problem a lot worse.
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I recently took out my headliner And my passenger's side seat. When I put everything back together, I turned the car on and the light came on. What can be the issue?
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After I got gas yesterday I drove about 10miles and the CEL light came on. The gas cap seemed a little loose so I am assuming it is that until I get it scanned soon. I was just wondering how long is stayed on if it wasn't cleared, I know some cars take a few days.
Does euroswitch installed have a problem with the audible headlights-are-still-on tone? If I leave my lights on, and exit the car no sound will sound. If I open it back up, then it will make a sound. Pretty useless.
Also, still looking on the best length for the Thule wind fairing for stock votex racks?
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So I just changed the valve cover fast but I am still getting oil onto the hood of my car. It did this before I changed the gasket as well. Is my valve cover bent maybe?
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Ok first lemme start I have a 20th with 76,000 miles chipped. I was driving down my street and the car julted a little, didn't think it was much, kept driving the check engine light turned on and the engine sounded like it was hesitating and I lost alot of power. Also it sounds like a Subaru. I haven't yet changed my coils so I'm thinking that's what it is.
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so my check engine light came on recently and i took my car to a local shop to get it checked out and they told me one of my o2 sensors might be bad and that i should replace it. but because the catalytic converter that i have installed is an aftermarket one(installed before i bought the car used), they told me they were unable to remove the sensor attached because it was welded(?) on or something to that effect and they didnt have the tools to fix it.
so i did some research and found a better shop that deals with catalytic converters and exhaust systems and im thinking of taking my car there to see what they can do BUT, i was just researching online and ive found other posts saying that it may not even be a bad o2 sensor, it could be a different problem but the its just the bad o2 sensor code that comes up and now i dont know what to do.
just wanted to see what everyones opinion is on this subject or if they have gone through this before!
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