I purchased a 2011 GTI on Tuesday. Loving it so far. I've got a question about a noise I hear though. It is at 1500 rpm. It sounds like high pressure air, kind of a pshhhhh sound (like letting air out of a tire). It isn't loud and there's no impact on performance. I assume this is just the turbo spooling up or something related to that? This is my first car with a turbo so just want to be sure .
View 3 RepliesMy car is a 2011 Golf TDI....
Ok so yesterday I was getting onto the highway under normal acceleration and all of a sudden I heard sound that I can only describe as pressure being released. Immediately after, the cars shuts off and is just coasting. I have a standard transmission. I turn the car off, put it in neutral while still coasting, and restart it to see if it will start back up. It works but I have no power what so ever. Like it was in limp mode. So I pull over and turn it off and try to restart again and it just keeps stuttering and not turning over or starting up. I had it towed to my dealer.
So toady being Saturday, the dealer had a half day and didn't really get to diagnosing my car. Well I drove there and talked to the mechanic and he said when he drained the fuel it was clear as water, and that diesel should be yellowish. The service advisor then started asking me if I put gas in it or any additives. I never in my life have used additives and I have every single receipt from the start. He is saying that if they find out its gas, that it will not be covered by warranty. What should I do? Where do I go from here to ready my self to defend I didn't put gas in it.
It's winter here and as my car warms up it starts to tick. It doesn't happen right away, only as the car warms up and it gets progressively louder until a certain point at which point it seems to stop (or has faded significantly). It primarily happens in idle and in gear but will go away after revving above a certain point (around 1500-2000rpm). If I put it in neutral the noise is greatly reduced or disappears completely unless I rev it from about 1000rpm-1500rpm. Once the car reaches operating temperature the noise is gone. What it could be? The sound appears to be coming from the top of the entire. Also, it doesnt seem to do this when its warm outside. I have a 2011 sonata GLS and I change the oil every 3000 miles. I use either Bosch filters or OEM filters so I know the filter has nothing to do with the ticking.
View 21 RepliesI'm having a problem with my 2012 Mazda3 (automatic, non-skyactive model) that others seem to be complaining about on the online forums, but there seems to be no consensus.
About 10,000 miles into owning the car, it started making a sort of high-pitched gargling sound when I accelerate and the tachometer reads 1500-1900 RPMs. At first, the sound occurred sporadically when I was accelerating under these conditions, but now, at 28,000 miles, it's happening almost every time I accelerate between 1500-1900 RPMs. Here are a few more facts:
The engine must be warm. The car must be in drive (I cannot replicate it in neutral or park)The sound occurs regardless of whether the AC is on
I took it to the dealer 3 times. The first time, they changed the belt, and that worked for about 1000 miles. The second time, they told me that the noise is normal, and I should not worry. The third time, I took it to a different dealer, and they put a "dressing" on the belt. That worked for about 600 miles. Now the sound is back again, and it's driving me nuts. It definitely doesn't sound normal. If I test drove a car at 28,000 that made this sound, I definitely wouldn't buy it.
I have a gas leak at the connection of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and high pressure fuel pipe. Gas drips and sprays out from the nut area (see pic). The car take a several seconds to turn over to start.
What is the most likely cause? The car is out of warranty, so trying to repair myself without having to replace any expensive parts unnecessarily.
My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
Recently my 2011 F-250 Diesel with 21,000 miles seemed to start hard one morning. After starting the truck it ran well that day and started fine. The next morning it would not start. Had it taken to the dealer and they went to work. Started at the fuel filters and replaced low pressure fuel pump. Thought a piece of the defective pump had moved up fuel line. Removed high pressure pump and found signs of rust. All regular service intervals have been met. Didn't see this coming. No water in fuel light or other warning.
View 14 RepliesSo I think my A/c high pressure switch went out/failed. I came out from a shop and I had just bought 2 new front tires and got them mounted 1 hour prior and I though that I had ran over something. I felt around the passenger tire but didn't find a anything-but there was a hissing noise behind the passenger tire and the air smelled a little funny. So when I got in the car and turned the a/c on nothing happened/No cold air and I had just used the A/c on the way over to the shop. So when I got home I pulled these codes:
00792.Air Conditioner pressure switch F129
01274.Motor for Air Recirculation flap V71
My 2011 tdi has 18k on it and yesterday the glow plug squiggle on the dask lit up and started flashing. At this point the car had no power so i pulled over and called vw. They were very prompt and got me towed to a dealer but the dealer was unable to find anything wrong even though the malfunction threw a code. I just finished a three hundred mile trip after leaving the dealership and the car worked perfect.
View 3 Replies2000 jetta 2.0
I had my a/c checked out as it would not come on nor would my fans come on when the interior a/c switch was pushed and yes the switch lit up.
The mechanic said i needed a new compressor and high pressure switch.
Do I have to have the system evacuated first or can i change out the switch with the system loaded??
One of the high-pressure lines on the back of the rack, close to the exhaust, has rotted out. It was smoking as it leaked right under the exhaust pipe and burned off. The rest of the freshly filled fluid was all over the ground. I crawled under and got a good look at the high pressure line, but where to source these, and if they are even replaceable? I have not tried to remove it yet, but perhaps a shop could bend a new one as a cheap alternative to a new rack. I was also thinking of checking out the pick n pull for a line.
View 2 RepliesSo I've gotten this error code a few times now but never a CEL nor does the car drive any diff.
1 Fault Found:
000136 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too High
P0088 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
in my 2011 jetta i got a low tire pressure icon on my dash, turns out there was a nail in my tire, i repaired it and filled all of my tires to the ideal tire pressure and now 3 days later the icon still shows on my dash....?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 F-350 Diesel. It started making a strange whining sound when I start it in the morning. Very random and only does it when it's 0- -4 c. Took it to the dealership and they said its the cooler fan clutch. Got it replaced yesterday, and this morning I started it up and the whining sound was back. It also had a weird vibrating sound. What it could be?
View 10 Replies2004 1500 5.3 low oil pressure after using Lucas engine stop leak. No pressure at idle just below 40 when driving. Replace the sending unit and pressure improved for about a day. Just had a manual pressure gauge hooked up and it shows the same as cluster. No engine noise at all. I was informed that using Seafoam or another solvent could loosen up build up and cause damage. Trying to find out if using an engine flush machine may support. I am assuming that the cause of the low oil pressure is due to build up from using several qt of the stop leak over a four months. I am the only owner and I have always changed the oil according to schedule and have always used Valvoline synthetic.
View 19 RepliesI have an 88 Chevy C1500. It started showing low oil pressure about a year ago and I went with a heavier oil and oil pressure go a bit better.
Just changed the oil and now, when I start the engine cold, I show normal oil pressure. As the engine temp increases, the oil pressure goes down. When engine is fully warm, oil pressure shows 0 and "check gauges" light comes on.
Decided to put even heavier oil in but guy at parts house said it was probably the sending unit, not a worn out engine. I tend to agree because I drove it more and never hear any ticking or valve noise. Too cheap to replace the sending unit.
From the symptoms above, does thus sound right? Could the sensor somehow fail as engine temperature increases? Everything I read says oil pump failure is very rare.
I have question about power steering pressure switch in golf 4 1.8t
Idle go high to 2000 rpm .. when i plug-off the Power Steering Pressure Switch its go fine .. i want know is this " Power Steering Pressure Switch " effect stability in high ?
When I bought a used camry 5 years ago and drove it on the highway, my front tire busted and damaged the fender cuz it had too much air!! I wonder if it shows high pressure on my 2010 gen III Prius v with ATP. I know that the tires are special on this v version but still I like to keep a slightly higher pressure in the front ones because the lane keep assist feature works better with higher tire pressure. Summer is coming up so that gets me worried what to do with tire pressures.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2011 GTI with about 30k miles on it.... A couple thousand miles/couple months ago I hit a pothole on the highway.... it was a very sharp impact... the sidewall of the tire blistered and the rim was bent as well.... I got new tires and the rim fixed but it still feels like there is something wrong
During the 30k mile service at the dealer I brought it up and they balanced the wheels but didn't see anything wrong... I've had it balanced/aligned a few times since but it doesn't correct the issue... neither the tire shop nor the dealer was able to see anything blatantly wrong
It feels like something is "loose" and the car vibrates mildly at a high frequency... not just in the steering wheel... the vibration is mostly noticeably at higher speeds but the "looseness" can be felt at just about any speed...
At this point I've pretty much ruled out balance and alignment so what else could it be? Wheel bearing? Control arm bushing? Tie rod? Bent Axle? Steering collar?
So the problems continue with the final payment of car. So now my oil pressure light comes on after driving for 10 minutes and sometimes goes off with i push in the clutch or keep it under 1500 rpms. Enough oil in car. What could be going on?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1993 Chevy C1500, and about 3 weeks ago I started noticing that whenever it gets to temp I start hearing a knocking coming from the valves, and I lose almost all oil pressure. I also lose a lot of power. What could be causing this? Am I looking at a full on engine rebuild?
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